Flypress

[CRB]

crushing apples for cider

Never thought of that, cue another internet search.

 

[Maker]

those colours are the old ones u must be of an age lol

Old pieces but if you look closely you'll see the new Allen key bolts, I can't be bothered with the old cheesehead screws.

 

[MattF]

So they're really really useful then, maybe I'll get myself one if one comes up for sale cheaply and locally. I don't suppose anyone has made their own?

Just keep an eye out on places like Ebay. That's where the one above came from. You'll drop across one for a decent price eventually. Probably took a couple of years before I came across that one. Soon as I saw the design of that one, I was having it regardless, , (the fully bridged ram is an unusual design. It also lacks the ubiquitous Tee slots, having a couple of hold down threaded holes in the table instead), but I really dropped on in that no-one else bid on it either. There's a fair bit of mass and pressure necessary, so it honestly ain't worth farting around trying to make something.

Just out of interest I used the image search facility in Google through right clicking the image.

What a heap.

This is a 'visually similar image' http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/12/02/23AA8DED00000578-0-image-12_1417559927267.jpg along with armoured cars and Africans.

Nice thing, MattF.

That photo is just so wrong. How can they liken that to having any relation to a flypress?

Going through that link I posted earlier, I found one link to a site listing a Teil flypress. The photo wasn't exactly great, but the press looked somewhat similar in design.

 

[MattF]

Stripped the ram assembly down so that I can clean the glue off/out. The tenacity of old grease amazes me on occasion.

The overall condition of the nut seems quite good. No apparent excess wear on the thread. The coupling method between the screw and ram.

Been considering whether to derust and repaint this or not, but I'm leaning towards just cleaning and fettling it at the moment. The fairly minor amounts of rust on non-moving areas don't seem enough to warrant removing its current character.

 

[MattF]

Finally found out what colour it is. Naval grey.

Considering how grubby looking it was to start with:

I think a quick degrease and clean has made a marked difference. It's just had a coating of Linseed oil to protect it. Decided not to go overboard in restoring this one.

Went with using that old tank for the base/stand. Quick wipe down and then coated with Linseed on the outside and engine oil inside. Cut a piece of 3/4" MDF so as to be a snug push fit inside the top, and then drilled that and ran 3"x2" planed slats along the top, screwed from below, so the slats protrude past the rim by about 3/4" all round and the MDF keeps them all secured in place and stops the top shifting around.

 

[Maker]

Nice. In the second and third pictures, that is the little (brass?) plate on the side, I don't suppose that has any markings on it?

 

[MattF]

That's just a Buck & Hickman plate, so still no clue as to manufacturer. Been over it with a fine tooth comb, and there's zero manufacturer info. Just U4 stencil painted on the column below that plaque, and the serial punched on the bed.

Lugging this stuff'll be the death of me one day. Almost popped a vein lifting that onto that base from the floor. Btw, it's not half as wonky as that last photo makes it appear. Camera lenses don't half distort stuff.

 

[Maker]

Have a look at this:

Could it be that yours was produced by Norton for Buck & Hickman?

 

[MattF]

Don't think it was made by any of the usual manufacturers. The design is distinct from the usual style which the likes of Norton, S&B etc. would use. Different design with regards the ram, lack of Tee slots, (this one just has a couple of 5/8" threaded holes in the base). It could possibly even be American. B&H did import quite a bit of Merkin kit too, from what I've heard.

Next fun bit with this one is going to be getting the tool out of the ram. Not sure whether there's some rust holding it or whether the shaft has been upset in the bore slightly through being a bit too long, but it's stuck in there tight as at the moment.

 

[Norm]

Nice job as per usual Matt, that's lookin the business

Lugging this stuff'll be the death of me one day. Almost popped a vein lifting that onto that base from the floor.

an early engine crane or chain block really needs to be next on your list

 

[lotus 30]

Reading this post made me think how do i make a hole punch for the fly press i have some holes to put into 2.5mm ali and they have a boss which is a tight fit into the hole so a nice punched hole to exact size would be nice. do you put a leading edge on them would you harden the tools never seen one so i am a blank sheet of paper at the moment. some pics would be a great help the hole size is 1:1/4"and 1;1/2"

 

[CRB]

Regarding the screwed holes - ?Could it be a simpler method for affixing commonly used tooling? Far easier to set up than T-Slots or loose clamps.

I could see a bank of identical presses with QR tooling producing a part in increments.

Having a crappy cold has its' uses when you dare not go near a spinning chuck.

 

[MattF]

Nice job as per usual Matt, that's lookin the business

Cheers.

an early engine crane or chain block really needs to be next on your list

I have got an old Yale 3/4 ton chain hoist knocking about somewhere. Reason I never use it though is 'cos I'm not sure if I'd trust the roof trusses with any weight. Had considered an egine crane, but that'd kill me on storing it, space wise.

Reading this post made me think how do i make a hole punch for the fly press i have some holes to put into 2.5mm ali and they have a boss which is a tight fit into the hole so a nice punched hole to exact size would be nice. do you put a leading edge on them would you harden the tools never seen one so i am a blank sheet of paper at the moment. some pics would be a great help the hole size is 1:1/4"and 1;1/2"

Must admit, I was thinking of punches the other day. Never seen one myself for a flypress, so I'm intrigued as to the answer on this one too. The way I've always understood they're designed is as a straight punch rather than a cutter though, as in flat bottomed and sharp corners with little or no relief. Something like a brake cylinder piston, (I'm working from memory of the old Girling type stuff, so not sure if modern stuff differs. I avoid touching brake systems like the plague, if I can).

Regarding the screwed holes - ?Could it be a simpler method for affixing commonly used tooling? Far easier to set up than T-Slots or loose clamps.

I could see a bank of identical presses with QR tooling producing a part in increments.

Sounds a very likely reason/explanation. Alignment should be spot on straight away with fixed bolt holes, provided the plate holes are close tolerance on size.

Having a crappy cold has its' uses when you dare not go near a spinning chuck.

Is that due to dizzy spells, the involuntary movement when you cough or sneeze, or just to avoid the risk of flung snot/phlegm if you sneeze or cough?

 

[CRB]

Sounds a very likely reason/explanation. Alignment should be spot on straight away with fixed bolt holes, provided the plate holes are close tolerance on size.

?Shouldered bolt?

Is that due to dizzy spells, the involuntary movement when you cough or sneeze, or just to avoid the risk of flung snot/phlegm if you sneeze or cough?

Only a bit of coughing today, see Alf Ippititimus, but Dearly Beloved is needing to be looked after instead too.

 

[SAFC73]

This is mine:

View attachment 57456

According to the brass plate on it, it was made in 1934 in Munich.

Germans dropped it on Swan Hunters during the war

 

[Paul.]

Reading this post made me think how do i make a hole punch for the fly press i have some holes to put into 2.5mm ali and they have a boss which is a tight fit into the hole so a nice punched hole to exact size would be nice. do you put a leading edge on them would you harden the tools never seen one so i am a blank sheet of paper at the moment. some pics would be a great help the hole size is 1:1/4"and 1;1/2"

The usual way to set up a flypress for punching is with a Hunton bolster, http://www.hartleige.com/product/flypress-bolster-outfits-and-tooling

Certainly not cheap to buy new, but do pop up on ebay from time to time, once you have the kit there is a load of tooling available that drops straight in, corner notchers, croppers, punches,

For 2mm ally a straight punch will do it, shear angles are normally not needed on punches till you get on to big diameters or thick materials.

 

[Wendelspanswick]

You also need clearance between the punch and die, the thicker the material the bigger the clearance.
There are a few online calculators to find the clearance required, here's one:
http://www.flat-stock.com/~store/Me..._Code=DICLI-DIE_CLEARANCE&Category_Code=DICLI

 

[MattF]

?Shouldered bolt?

That'd probably be a better option, if for nothing more than it'd prevent the plate holes becoming scored by the threads through frequent bolting/unbolting. More for the alignment is what I was thinking. If the holes are a snug slip fit for the bolt, (whichever style is used), then precise alignment of the bottom plate in relation to the ram tool is pretty much guaranteed.

Only a bit of coughing today, see Alf Ippititimus, but Dearly Beloved is needing to be looked after instead too.

As much as I'm guessing I really don't want to know what's on that vid, I know it likely won't be long before I can't resist watching it.

 

[CRB]

As much as I'm guessing I really don't want to know what's on that vid, I know it likely won't be long before I can't resist watching it.

Do not worry, it will not put your delicate sensibilities to the test. It is more reaction than action.

Another one for the younger viewers.

 

[MattF]

I'll check that out later then

Just wondered if I could get a bit of general guidance regarding tooling namely the bolster shank. Is there a general type of length on the shank? This plate on this ram is stuck in there solid, so I'm drilling through the approximate centre of the shank to try and get a bolt in there to push it out. I'm pretty much drilling blind with regards to how long this shank may be though, so trying to get a rough idea of what an approximate length of the bolster shank may be. Wanting to minimise the possibility of drilling through into the rams bore if it's bottomed out in there.