Free CAD software for 3D printing

[ukracer]

Ok cool. I have printed the small tolerance test you linked to. So that might help. There are a couple of things to make it perfect.
Most important one is to reduce the inside dovetail as currently after printing they don't fit together.

The other one is where there is a ledge internally it would be nice if that were a slot to fit the honeycomb steel mesh. 3mm wide same depth as the ledge.

I will try and draw what I mean soon.

 

[Dr.Al]

Okeydokey. A sketch of what you want would be useful, but it sounds straightforward.

 

[ukracer]

It's not the best but might give you a clue what I mean.
Imagine a sheet of honeycomb steel flat on the bed.
The frame you have designed needs to slot over the 3mm thick steel honeycomb.
It will have 2 purposed to tidy up the edge of the steel and also hold the sheet proud of the base.

 

[ukracer]

This should help..

 

[Dr.Al]

That's easy enough to do as described...

However, I think it makes it a bit more complicated in practice. As modelled, the slot isn't going to print very well as it's a bit overhang. I think it would be necessary to turn the dovetails through 90° so it can be printed on the side rather than on the face. That has the disadvantage that the finish won't be as good on the show faces. It also means that the corner pieces won't be anywhere near as strong as one side of them will be printed with the layers going along the face.

It also strikes me that it will be quite hard to get the steel mesh into that slot.

As an alternative, how about something like this:

Note that I've only modelled two of the inserts that would hold the mesh in place - you'd obviously need to print 10 of them.

If you like that, then the models updated and ready to print. The gap between the dovetail parts is set with a variable (it applies to both the joint dovetails and the little insert mesh-holder dovetails):

Double-click on it to edit it.

When you're happy, right-click on the part studio and hit export:

Then make sure it looks something like this:

 

[ukracer]

That's easy enough to do as described...

View attachment 401467

However, I think it makes it a bit more complicated in practice. As modelled, the slot isn't going to print very well as it's a bit overhang. I think it would be necessary to turn the dovetails through 90° so it can be printed on the side rather than on the face. That has the disadvantage that the finish won't be as good on the show faces. It also means that the corner pieces won't be anywhere near as strong as one side of them will be printed with the layers going along the face.

It also strikes me that it will be quite hard to get the steel mesh into that slot.

As an alternative, how about something like this:

View attachment 401470

Note that I've only modelled two of the inserts that would hold the mesh in place - you'd obviously need to print 10 of them.

If you like that, then the models updated and ready to print. The gap between the dovetail parts is set with a variable (it applies to both the joint dovetails and the little insert mesh-holder dovetails):

View attachment 401471

Double-click on it to edit it.

When you're happy, right-click on the part studio and hit export:

View attachment 401472

Then make sure it looks something like this:

View attachment 401473

I will play with that now.

This is the tolerance print. Smallest they will fit in is 0.25

 

[daedalusminos]

It's only a frame to space the honeycomb sheet? With the "U" groove printed in one you won't get the sheet in with the dovetails.

Simplify the problem, print in two sections split along the "U" (you'll need multiples of these if too large for print bed). Offset the joins, insert sheet and glue the sections together.

 

[ukracer]

It's only a frame to space the honeycomb sheet? With the "U" groove printed in one you won't get the sheet in with the dovetails.

Yeah it's a frame to space the honey . But also to make the edges safe.
DrAl has solved the problem. Saving plastic and time by having small doetailed holders. (Great idea BTW).
I did think i might protude into the dovetails but we could have made the frame wider.
It's the overhang us non designers forget.
It's one thing to design (which I cant) but it's another design for printing.

Simplify the problem, print in two sections split along the "U" (you'll need multiples of these if too large for print bed). Offset the joins, insert sheet and glue the sections together.

Another option that I had not considered.
I prefer the dovetails though currently.

I have a couple printing so we might know in 12 hours or so. Lol

 

[ukracer]

Ok I have now printed two of the new parts and they still don't fit.
It's hard to measure but...the tips of the dovetail measure 31.05 and internally measure 30.09.

But the other ends fit together. Arrgggg so it's not printed consistent.

 

[Dr.Al]

Ok I have now printed two of the new parts and they still don't fit.
It's hard to measure but...the tips of the dovetail measure 31.05 and internally measure 30.09.

But the other ends fit together. Arrgggg so it's not printed consistent. View attachment 401627

That's frustrating; my printer has always seemed quite consistent for this sort of thing.

Would it help to fillet the outside corners of each part? Something like this:

You could probably test it by attacking the printed ones with a file.

 

[ukracer]

That's frustrating; my printer has always seemed quite consistent for this sort of thing.

Would it help to fillet the outside corners of each part? Something like this:

View attachment 401633

You could probably test it by attacking the printed ones with a file.

That was my plan to adjust with a file.
It's interesting that the one that fits only fits with the male dove tail from the bottom up.
Almost like draft in a mould.
I am.collecting another printer later today so I will try that as its a good working one..I forgot to add a photo of the tolerance test you linked a while back.

 

[knighty]

I'm using fusion 360... I'm new to it... first ever part created

when I go to export it to 3d printer the ok button is greyed out, no matter what options I select I can't get the ok button to work

any ideas? google isn't helping much... most replies are for older versions that don't apply anymore

I'll have another look tonight when I get home

 

[ukracer]

I'm using fusion 360... I'm new to it... first ever part created

when I go to export it to 3d printer the ok button is greyed out, no matter what options I select I can't get the ok button to work

any ideas? google isn't helping much... most replies are for older versions that don't apply anymore

I'll have another look tonight when I get home

It's a bit flakey for me. There are a couple of ways of doing things.
I am pretty sure I right click the object and choose export.
If you have the free version you can get the limited selection that does not have stl available.

I always have problems right clicking the correct part.....lol

 

[knighty]

It's a bit flakey for me. There are a couple of ways of doing things.
I am pretty sure I right click the object and choose export.
If you have the free version you can get the limited selection that does not have stl available.

I always have problems right clicking the correct part.....lol

right click doesn't give me an export option? :-(

I forgot I posted here (lack of sleep) and made a new thread literally seconds ago :-o

 

[ukracer]

right click doesn't give me an export option? :-(

I forgot I posted here (lack of sleep) and made a new thread literally seconds ago :-o

You are correct. I get it wrong everytime.
It's under the file menu drop down.

Left click and then click export. (Not a right click.)

 

[knighty]

fusion 360 help (first go)

my nephew was good with 3d design stuff back when I had my first printer, and my little brother used to do that stuff for a living so I always let them draw up what I needed new printer now so figure it's time I learn, first go running fusion 360.. I've drawn up what I need, but can't get it...

www.mig-welding.co.uk

if I do 3d print I can't press the ok button

if I do export > STL I get an error saying I can't because it needs to be saved to the cloud for that to work?

 

[ukracer]

fusion 360 help (first go)

my nephew was good with 3d design stuff back when I had my first printer, and my little brother used to do that stuff for a living so I always let them draw up what I needed new printer now so figure it's time I learn, first go running fusion 360.. I've drawn up what I need, but can't get it...

www.mig-welding.co.uk

if I do 3d print I can't press the ok button

if I do export > STL I get an error saying I can't because it needs to be saved to the cloud for that to work?

Have you clicked save?

 

[knighty]

yep, it's saved

 

[Jack_K]

I'm using fusion 360... I'm new to it... first ever part created

when I go to export it to 3d printer the ok button is greyed out, no matter what options I select I can't get the ok button to work

any ideas? google isn't helping much... most replies are for older versions that don't apply anymore

I'll have another look tonight when I get home

Sounds like you haven't selected the object, click on the object on the screen.

Not sure about the other error

 

[m_c]

IIRC STL/3MF export was something that got limited in the free version a while back, however it was still possible as I still done it before I started paying for F360.

I seem to think this method was still doable.
Right click on the body within the tree view, then select either Export (allows STEP export), or Save As Mesh which gives various 3D file options (STL, 3MF, OBJ) -

I'd personally suggest using 3MF files, as it stores the type of dimensions used (i.e. mm/inch), unlike STL which are unitless files (aka it just contains the dimensions, but doesn't specify what units were used)