Freebee in need of tlc.

[Richard.]

Well I have been on the hunt for some small work shop tooling and a band saw has been on top of my list as my chop saw is rather noisy and it was cheap. I managed to source one yesterday. The plus side of it was it was free. The down side is it was stripped not by me and sat for years in boxes in the rain.

First job is to build the thing as it is and get an understanding of what goes where, what is in need of replacement, repair etc. there are loads of old bolts washers nuts of various sizes and I've got to suss which ones go where.
So far and enough for this eve. My intentions are to strip it back down once I have it Sussed and clean it right up. I will need to re tap all threads and replace bolts. Strip it of all rust and re grease, oil etc then paint. Ultimately if I like it enough when it's built I'll do what I do best and mod it to be brilliant. I'll fit a pump and tank for cutting fluid. I'll fit an adjustable gas strut which will be better than the spring for down pressure and it will be a very good saw. (Hope fully) because these things can be bought used for £150 I'm setting my self a project budget of £75. This is a spare time thing so thread will be updated as and when and of course your input/ideas are always usefull.

 

[Richard.]

Oh and the first thing I checked was I chucked a plug on the motor to ensure that worked which it spun up lovely to my suprise and very quiet too so it's a mechanical project thank god with a little simple electrics ie switch and cable. As I want the saw to shut it self off when the cut is finished. All in good time.

 

[doubleboost]

They are a decent saw once "fettled"
The gear box (worm & wheel) is the weak point
Fill it with CV joint grease as the oil just runs out lol

 

[Paul.]

These usually have a simple stop start switch operated by a tag on the bow when it reaches the bottom of the stroke, here's a picture of mine if it helps, you can see how the switch works, you'll probably want to make some legs or a trolley for it as well,

 

[eSCHEn]

Out of interest, what sort of power are the drive motors on average?

 

[Paul.]

Out of interest, what sort of power are the drive motors on average?

.5 hp
Here is the manual for the Clarke version they are all much the same just with different branding,

 

[Richard.]

These usually have a simple stop start switch operated by a tag on the bow when it reaches the bottom of the stroke, here's a picture of mine if it helps, you can see how the switch works, you'll probably want to make some legs or a trolley for it as well,
View attachment 66219

Cheers Paul yes that's what I'm after doing to it with regards the switch so that helps a lot. Regards the base/trolley I didn't bother to take it as it was so rusty and flimsy and not worth having. I will make something for it but I will make it in the form of a tank and pump so that it can be used with fluid. Yours looks very close to how mine would of once looked. My issue is blades. I have no info on it at all with regards to the blade I should buy. Does any one have any ideas on this .

 

[Paul.]

The bade size is 64.5" x 0.5", carbon steel ones can be had for around a fiver, avoid the screwfix ones though, toolstation ones are not too bad,
Bi metal or M42 blades are better and can be found on ebay, expect to pay 3 times as much for them though.

 

[Richard.]

Thank you mate that's brilliant info. I'll be ordering some up.
Cheers Paul.

 

[Wallace]

Looks quite an old saw, might be better built than some of the current ones. The spring is under tension and takes weight off the bow as you tighten it to control the cut, the better versions have an adjustable hydraulic damper in place of the spring as on this Axminster version.

 

[Richard.]

Looks quite an old saw, might be better built than some of the current ones. The spring is under tension and takes weight off the bow as you tighten it to control the cut, the better versions have an adjustable hydraulic damper in place of the spring as on this Axminster version.

Yeah I've got the spring and adjuster fitted and it works as it should as the more tension I put on it the slower it drops. My idea was to (eventually) replace it with a strut (gas, hydraulic ) and have a more easily adjustable down pressure.

 

[Wallace]

It's a crude way of controlling the down stroke compared to a hydraulic feed but works reasonably well. Have you considered buying a coil of bandsaw blade and Tig welding your own blades?

 

[MattF]

Yeah I've got the spring and adjuster fitted and it works as it should as the more tension I put on it the slower it drops. My idea was to (eventually) replace it with a strut (gas, hydraulic ) and have a more easily adjustable down pressure.

The old power hacksaws had a simple and effective system. Literally like a pepperpot lid on the end of an arm connected to the bow, located in a cylinder of oil. A plate underneath the pepperpot restricts oil flow through the holes, allowing downwards movement speed to be controlled.

 

[Richard.]

It's a crude way of controlling the down stroke compared to a hydraulic feed but works reasonably well. Have you considered buying a coil of bandsaw blade and Tig welding your own blades?

No I never considered that. Have you done that before ?

 

[Richard.]

The old power hacksaws had a simple and effective system. Literally like a pepperpot lid on the end of an arm connected to the bow, located in a cylinder of oil. A plate underneath the pepperpot restricts oil flow through the holes, allowing downwards movement speed to be controlled.

That's a simple effective idea.

 

[Shox Dr]

Good little saw, as said set it up and it will cut clean and straight.

I've use off cuts to increase cutting pressure, sitting them on the top of the arm, you soon learn how much to add so it cuts faster and still straight.

 

[Richard.]

Good little saw, as said set it up and it will cut clean and straight.

I've a offcuts I use to increase cutting pressure, sitting them on the top of the arm, you soon learn how much to add so it cuts faster and still straight.

Bit of work involved before it cuts clean and straight but it'll get there. I'll get it put together test it so I know where I am with it then I'll strip it and get it how I want it.

 

[I'm getting on a bit]

Have you considered buying a coil of bandsaw blade and Tig welding your own blades?

I want to know this.

I have some broken ones I may give it a try

 

[CRB]

We used to braze our bandsaw blades, and I do remember having a proper big metalworking bandsaw which had a welder built in. The saw worked, the welder di not.

 

[Wendelspanswick]

You might want to replace the motor mount plate, mine was a pressed steel sheet and it used to flex causing the motor to bounce which in turn caused the bow to vibrate. Replacing the pressed mount for one in 4mm plate cured it.