Freebee in need of tlc.

[Wallace]

I want to know this.

I have some broken ones I may give it a try

I use mig wire for filler and a small block with a step cut in to clamp the blade true on a copper or brass backing strip. The trick to a successful joint is annealing once welded and ground/filed back.

 

[magnet]

http://www.northshieldsgrinding.co.uk/ This is where i get my bi metal blades if its any use to anyone

 

[Richard.]

You might want to replace the motor mount plate, mine was a pressed steel sheet and it used to flex causing the motor to bounce which in turn caused the bow to vibrate. Replacing the pressed mount for one in 4mm plate cured it.

Yep the elements it's been subject to leave me no choice to do this any how. The motor plate is so rusty and thin it's no good at all. I'm also going to have to replace/make some new guards for the pulleys and belt as that is in the same state.

 

[Richard.]

I use mig wire for filler and a small block with a step cut in to clamp the blade true on a copper or brass backing strip. The trick to a successful joint is annealing once welded and ground/filed back.

Nice tip.

 

[Simon-]

Very Nice project.

 

[Richard.]

Very Nice project.

Keeps the spanners in my hands.
Cheers.

 

[Richard.]

Ordered my self a couple of M42 blades from Tuffsaw. I'm going to be cutting steel mainly with wall thickness of 1-5mm so I went for a fine tooth blade. What are these things like to set up for cutting true. I have heard some of the clarkes are a bit of a pita to fettle and get good true cuts. Any top tips from owners. As I've never owned or built one before it's all guess work.

 

[Paul.]

They seem to vary a lot, a friend of mine literally threw one in a skip in frustration after spending hours on it, mine has been very good, needing little more than slight adjustment of the blade guides from time to time, I would get it built first and see how it runs, tracking the drive wheels can be a bit of a challenge, if they are not set up true the blade will come off the wheels, you might want to try a cheap blade for setting up rather than spoiling an M42.
If you want any close up pictures to help with assembly let me know and I'll post some.

 

[Wendelspanswick]

I spent about 40 minutes setting mine up to cut square about 20 years ago and since they its only needed minute adjustments.
If the blade starts to wander I know it's time to change it.

I took the fence off mine today so that I could cut 10mm off of 8 pieces of 200 x 170 x 12 mm plate. I stacked all 8 plates and clamped them on with 2 G cramps.
The saw took under an hour to cut through the lot, just shy of 100mm thick by 170mm long.
The cut was bang on square in the horizontal and vertical.

 

[Wendelspanswick]

And I have just bought 6 Bi-metal blades for £30, actually it's 3 blades but each one is nearly 4m long so if I cut and TIG the blades I should end up with 6 blades of the correct size and some bits left over.

 

[Richard.]

They seem to vary a lot, a friend of mine literally threw one in a skip in frustration after spending hours on it, mine has been very good, needing little more than slight adjustment of the blade guides from time to time, I would get it built first and see how it runs, tracking the drive wheels can be a bit of a challenge, if they are not set up true the blade will come off the wheels, you might want to try a cheap blade for setting up rather than spoiling an M42.
If you want any close up pictures to help with assembly let me know and I'll post some.

That would be really great Paul. I fitted the two rollers (drive and idle) today and I have shimmed them so that they both sit the same height. The vice and lead screw were seized solid so I've spent a good hour freeing that off to the point it can now slide the full length of the slot. Some close ups of yours would be very much appreciated to see a bit more detail. Cheers.

 

[Richard.]

And I have just bought 6 Bi-metal blades for £30, actually it's 3 blades but each one is nearly 4m long so if I cut and TIG the blades I should end up with 6 blades of the correct size and some bits left over.

Well I bought the first 2 ready made to length to get me by for now but I'll definitely be looking into this as it seems a much cheaper way of buying them. Can't imagine I'll be going through many mind as I intend to use with fluid which should prolong there life further. We shall see.

 

[Paul.]

No problem I'll try and find time tomorrow,
You will probably have to compensate for the blade tension a bit when setting the drive wheel alignment, you track it with the grubscrew and 2 hex bolts on the idler.
here.

 

[Richard.]

Cheers Paul. I've got that all bolted up in place right by the looks of it. I left the bolts and grub screw lose as I did think that might be where the adjustment should be done with the blade on. First thing I did do was fit the two silver guide plates on upside down and only realised when there was so much slop in the up/down movement of the wheel. Corrected it now. Cheers again.

 

[Richard.]

Ok been thinking a little far ahead but should I get this old thing cutting true I will be building a base/with tank pump and a feed onto the blade. My question is when I get to this stage is there any reason I cannot use a fully submergible 10 quid pond pump. Yes the solution is a diluted oil but these things are designed for pumping in silty weedy dirty water. Also I don't need any form of serious pressure just a light trickle. Will it be suitable or do I need to up the project budget. Granted I'm jumping the gun a bit as it's not even built up yet but these will be questions I seek should the thing be a runner.

 

[Paul.]

Some close ups of yours would be very much appreciated to see a bit more detail. Cheers.

Rather than clutter up the thread with a load of photos I've made an album that you can view them in, hope that they are of some use to you, if you need pictures of anything specific let me know, although they are a very simple machine.
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/media/albums/4-bandsaw.841/

 

[Richard.]

Ok so baring the motor I've got it built. Some of The course threaded bolts have been replaced with the next size up in metric thread the holes have been bored out and re tapped metric threads. I've left the fine threaded ones and good conditioned ones alone. Ordered a 10mm x 8mm by 562mm drive belt. When that and the blade arrives then it's time to test and fettle.

 

[Richard.]

Rather than clutter up the thread with a load of photos I've made an album that you can view them in, hope that they are of some use to you, if you need pictures of anything specific let me know, although they are a very simple machine.
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/media/albums/4-bandsaw.841/

Thank u Paul that's perfect. Cheers

 

[eSCHEn]

View attachment 66299 View attachment 66300
Ok so baring the motor I've got it built. Some of The course threaded bolts have been replaced with the next size up in metric thread the holes have been bored out and re tapped metric threads. I've left the fine threaded ones and good conditioned ones alone. Ordered a 10mm x 8mm by 562mm drive belt. When that and the blade arrives then it's time to test and fettle.

Nice seeing that come back to life there Richard

Be interesting to see it cutting again, doesn't sound like very long now at all

 

[Richard.]

All built to the best of what I had. Now I'm stuck till the blades and belts arrive. I've ditched the manky gear oil and took db's advice and filled it with cv grease. I've greased every thread and slide so things should move easy. The gear box does have a tighter spot when turning by hand I hope it's not goin to make the belt slip. Yeah I would be nice if it cuts well with minimum messing.