Freebee in need of tlc.

[MattF]

It's worth checking what's binding when it goes tight. Usually when you have a tight spot, there's a tad of movement somewhere allowing two parts to bind slightly. You can usually find it with a visual check as you're moving things by hand.

 

[Richard.]

I think it's a little wear in the worm gear causing it. The top spiral is thin and sharp. I think a little dress with a fine file and the thicker cv grease may help. I can turn it by hand so it's not too bad I just noticed some tighter and easier areas in the motion and wondered if it will make the belt slip or power through.

 

[MattF]

There's usually only one way to find out on that front.

 

[Richard.]

There's usually only one way to find out on that front.

Well I'll dress it best I can tomorrow with a fine file and see if it improves. Should be fine though.

 

[Wallace]

Is there much wear on the worm wheel or any float in the bearings?

 

[Richard.]

No play in bearings but the worm drive very top part of the spiral has worn to a sharp point

 

[I'm getting on a bit]

No play in bearings but the worm drive very top part of the spiral has worn to a sharp point

That doesn't sound good. I would use an ep gear oil. That's what's used in cement mixer gearboxes. For those that don't know ep stands for extreme pressure.

 

[Richard.]

It's only the end of the very top spiral it's easily dressible. I'll see how it goes when the belt arrives. If it's knackered it's scrap and cost me nothing but a bit of time. The belts and blades can always be used on another one as I'll defo have one. I think I can dress it though and relieve it a bit. Like I say I can turn it no probs by hand with the pully there is just a little resistance there.

 

[Richard.]

Ok so after seeing a few vids I realise how easy these worm and gear set ups should turn so there is defiantly a problem with mine as it does not fly round like the examples I've seen. So I'm assuming it may be scrap. I'm going to strip the gear box down and see if I can address the problem to get some life out of it but as these type of saws are not expensive to buy and plenty of used examples about I'm not going to start throwing money at it. I'll strip it right down tomorrow and hopefully a bit of dressing and adjustment should free it up a bit but I'm not holding my hopes up.

 

[Richard.]

Update. The motor does turn the worm drive without issue but this is me and I'm not happy as it's tighter than it should be.
So yesterday I managed to source a top bow off an old sealy. Gear and worm much smoother and free as a bird so it's a straight bow swap and back on with the project. This bow was complete with pulley, wheels, guides, every thing but the motor.
Now if anyone wants to believe these 4x6 saws are all the same under different brands that is defo not true. Sizes are the same but component quality are certainly not. I've stripped the whole sealy bow to a bare frame and built it with the parts off the monarch. The blade wheels on the sealy are half the weight and badly centred the lead screw was much thinner the pulleys are aluminium and have a slight wobble on the shaft. Infact every item apart from the bow itself was cheap and nasty when compared to the heavy better finished items on the monarch. My blades turned up today and the only fettle I needed to do was space the idle roller 2mm higher to stop it walking. The cut to my surprise was dead square. Ordered a submergible pump and gonna build a nice stand and make a coolant system. The tension spring is junk. I'm going to buy a cheap adjustable motorbike steering damper and mount the on the back to give consistant down speed and adjust it to suit the job.

 

[Wallace]

The bike steering damper is damped both ways, the saw dampers are one way so you can lift the bow easily.

 

[Richard.]

They are but they are adjustable and move easy enough. Back it off lift it up, 4 clicks to the right start the cut. I don't see it to be an issue.

 

[Wallace]

Is this a mod you have seen elsewhere?

 

[Richard.]

Is this a mod you have seen elsewhere?

No. I used to have a sprint damper on my zx10r and it had 16 adjustment positions from very very loose to very very hard. I thought it would be ideal for the saw and do away with the spring. Yes they damp both ways but the adjustment should allow for easy movement if it's backed off for lifting. That is my theory any how.

 

[Wallace]

I know the ones, have a kit here for my Speed Triple somewhere but never used it. I quite like this idea on Home Machinist.

 

[Richard.]

I like that but again your relying on the spring doing the damping as I would assume the jack would be just an on/off release and need pumping up before every cut. It's a nice idea though.

 

[Wallace]

The spring can be removed and the jack releases in relation to how much the valve is opened so you get control over the descent. He explains better in post #40 after making a few more mods and in post #50 another guy has modified the seat for better control.

 

[Richard.]

The spring can be removed and the jack releases in relation to how much the valve is opened so you get control over the descent. He explains better in post #40 after making a few more mods and in post #50 another guy has modified the seat for better control.

Ah I see he can control the decent on the valve. I have an old bottle jack but it's all or nothing. Soon as the valve is cracked open the pressure is backed right off. The only down side is I can't see my self jacking it right up before every cut. I'm gonna go down the adjustable steering damper route as I'll pick one up cheapy and it gives me all the adjustment I need for lifting and down force. I've nearly finished the new stand. So I have lots of points to weld and bolt too for my mods. If you do come across a link with a one way damper for sensible money that would be the best case scenario but the ones I've looked at have been dear.

 

[roofman]

Ah I see he can control the decent on the valve. I have an old bottle jack but it's all or nothing. Soon as the valve is cracked open the pressure is backed right off. The only down side is I can't see my self jacking it right up before every cut. I'm gonna go down the adjustable steering damper route as I'll pick one up cheapy and it gives me all the adjustment I need for lifting and down force. I've nearly finished the new stand. So I have lots of points to weld and bolt too for my mods. If you do come across a link with a one way damper for sensible money that would be the best case scenario but the ones I've looked at have been dear.

how about a scrapyard mooch for a tailgate damper off a car Richard...

 

[Richard.]

how about a scrapyard mooch for a tailgate damper off a car Richard...

Thought about that. Not so easy to adjust and a bit longer than I'd like to use really.