Hattori-hanzo
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Thanks Craig 
- Thread starter Hattori-hanzo
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Hattori-hanzo
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Thanks for your comment Keith
Does any one know any thing about metal band saw blades?
I ordered an m42 blade with 14tpi, vari pitch as I read this was best for cutting 6mm steel.
I got the blade today and put it into our wood cutting band saw but the blade won't cut the steel.
I ran the blade for 10 minutes before using and sprayed it with lube, tension seemed good too but It just won't cut.
I did a bit of research when I got home to find out that the cutting speed may have been way to high.
It's not the fastest running band saw but like I say it's a wood cutting saw with no speed adjustment.
I'm guessing I've ruined the blade by running it to fast as the blade won't even cut brass now?
Looks like I'll have to go back to using the hacksaw, bit disappointed as I've got a load of steel to cut away on the current plane, was hoping the band saw would save a lot of work.
Also Can M42 blades be sharpened? or are they a one use item?
Not that it would be much good unless I could find a way to reduce the band saw speed.
Does any one know any thing about metal band saw blades?
I ordered an m42 blade with 14tpi, vari pitch as I read this was best for cutting 6mm steel.
I got the blade today and put it into our wood cutting band saw but the blade won't cut the steel.
I ran the blade for 10 minutes before using and sprayed it with lube, tension seemed good too but It just won't cut.
I did a bit of research when I got home to find out that the cutting speed may have been way to high.
It's not the fastest running band saw but like I say it's a wood cutting saw with no speed adjustment.
I'm guessing I've ruined the blade by running it to fast as the blade won't even cut brass now?
Looks like I'll have to go back to using the hacksaw, bit disappointed as I've got a load of steel to cut away on the current plane, was hoping the band saw would save a lot of work.
Also Can M42 blades be sharpened? or are they a one use item?
Not that it would be much good unless I could find a way to reduce the band saw speed.
brightspark
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you cant re sharpen them its a throw away item. as said its ruined with running to fastThanks for your comment Keith
Does any one know any thing about metal band saw blades?
I ordered an m42 blade with 14tpi, vari pitch as I read this was best for cutting 6mm steel.
I got the blade today and put it into our wood cutting band saw but the blade won't cut the steel.
I ran the blade for 10 minutes before using and sprayed it with lube, tension seemed good too but It just won't cut.
I did a bit of research when I got home to find out that the cutting speed may have been way to high.
It's not the fastest running band saw but like I say it's a wood cutting saw with no speed adjustment.
I'm guessing I've ruined the blade by running it to fast as the blade won't even cut brass now?
Looks like I'll have to go back to using the hacksaw, bit disappointed as I've got a load of steel to cut away on the current plane, was hoping the band saw would save a lot of work.
Also Can M42 blades be sharpened? or are they a one use item?
Not that it would be much good unless I could find a way to reduce the band saw speed.
Hattori-hanzo
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Ah bugger, oh well live and learn. Looks like I'll be doing it the hard way 
Hattori-hanzo
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Cheers Nickk
I've started work on the sole and its tough going!
These are the initial cuts that start to form the mouth. There was a lot of filing involved after.
Here you can see the sole is made from two pieces of steel with the mouth cut into the left hand piece and the relief cut onto the right hand piece.
There is also a V joint which aligns both pieces together.
Doesn't look much but there was a lot of work involved.
I've started work on the sole and its tough going!
These are the initial cuts that start to form the mouth. There was a lot of filing involved after.
Here you can see the sole is made from two pieces of steel with the mouth cut into the left hand piece and the relief cut onto the right hand piece.
There is also a V joint which aligns both pieces together.
Doesn't look much but there was a lot of work involved.
Hattori-hanzo
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Finally the sole dovetails are "nearly" done. I could at last do a test fit of the sole onto the body.
Getting the two pieces of the sole to align and make the dovetails a tight fit has been a pain staking task.
It was a case of fine adjustments to each dovetail with a file then test fitting after each try.
All I need to do now is fine adjust the depth of the dovetails to get the sole to seat flat, again lots of test fits until it's right.
The split dovetail with the mouth opening had to be a perfect fit. Too tight and it will distort the body, too loose would cause gaps in the V joint and play in the mouth.
Amazingly it's come out really well with a mouth opening of just under 1mm.
I may have to open this up a little yet but I'd like to keep it under 1.5mm if possible, the finer the mouth the finer a shaving it should produce but too small and the plane won't take a cut at all.
I've still to shape the sole and a few other things but after that is the dreadful task of peening it all together, Wish me luck.
Getting the two pieces of the sole to align and make the dovetails a tight fit has been a pain staking task.
It was a case of fine adjustments to each dovetail with a file then test fitting after each try.
All I need to do now is fine adjust the depth of the dovetails to get the sole to seat flat, again lots of test fits until it's right.
The split dovetail with the mouth opening had to be a perfect fit. Too tight and it will distort the body, too loose would cause gaps in the V joint and play in the mouth.
Amazingly it's come out really well with a mouth opening of just under 1mm.
I may have to open this up a little yet but I'd like to keep it under 1.5mm if possible, the finer the mouth the finer a shaving it should produce but too small and the plane won't take a cut at all.
I've still to shape the sole and a few other things but after that is the dreadful task of peening it all together, Wish me luck.
Hattori-hanzo
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Your Luck paid off Ranchero, I finished the peening this afternoon. It was bloody hard work!
I've taken some short video clips of the progress so far and started to put them into a video.
It's nothing fancy, just sped up clips and a few short descriptions of what I've been doing along the way.
Might be interesting to some of you.
I've taken some short video clips of the progress so far and started to put them into a video.
It's nothing fancy, just sped up clips and a few short descriptions of what I've been doing along the way.
Might be interesting to some of you.
DAPPH
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You can get a simple plug in variable speed contoller / regulator to run your band saw motor slower . You might have to sort the plug lead out to get it to work on a UK socket & keep a length of the moulded plug lead to make an adaptor for your band saw feed cable.Ah ******, oh well live and learn. Looks like I'll be doing it the hard way
Such as this :-
ebay # 253949153168
Hattori-hanzo
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Thanks for the info DAPPH, I did wonder about some sort of speed controller for the band saw as this would be the simplest solution but after doing a quick bit of research I read the motor would stall a lot easier so no good for a band saw cutting metal? Also the motors fan is directly driven from it so it would not be getting sufficient cooling?
I have no idea if any of this is true or relevant as I've no clue about electronics but I'd like to know, as like I said it would be the easiest solution.
I've just started making the wooden infills for the plane. I've gone with Millettia laurentii "wenge" as I had a spare piece from another job, its very hard and dense so should make perfect infills.
It's really hard on tools mind, blunts saws and chisels in no time.
I'm working on video 2 at the moment so should be up soon.
I have no idea if any of this is true or relevant as I've no clue about electronics but I'd like to know, as like I said it would be the easiest solution.
I've just started making the wooden infills for the plane. I've gone with Millettia laurentii "wenge" as I had a spare piece from another job, its very hard and dense so should make perfect infills.
It's really hard on tools mind, blunts saws and chisels in no time.
I'm working on video 2 at the moment so should be up soon.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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If you take things easy the slower speed should not matter too much unless you get down to really low speeds.
re stalling , again let it run free and gently feed in what you are cutting , it might take six seconds longer .
My REXON dual speed saw is primarily a wood cutting band saw . It has different pulley's for cutting 430 & 79 2metres per minute , I took a chance that a UK professionally made bimetallic blade on low speed would cut brass & aluminium on the 430 mtr/ minute setting … it does .
. I can cut 2 " or less brass round bar , inch thick phosphor bronze bar .....eventually ( resorted to a 1 mm slitting disc on the angle grinder for the rest of the cuts ) and 3 inch aluminium square bar longitudinally in an 8 inch long cut without any problems whatsoever . I did use W 40 with the red extension tube to occasionally give a cooling /heat transfer lube to the cuts
I've also cut half a dozen 1/4 thick flat plate mild steel in to six inch long strips ( slowly and with a spray on thread cutting oil to transfer the heat off the blade ) , the blade still looks & cuts as good as the day I fitted it .
Maybe someone who has actually used a motor speed controller can /will tell you of their experiences & thoughts .
re stalling , again let it run free and gently feed in what you are cutting , it might take six seconds longer .
My REXON dual speed saw is primarily a wood cutting band saw . It has different pulley's for cutting 430 & 79 2metres per minute , I took a chance that a UK professionally made bimetallic blade on low speed would cut brass & aluminium on the 430 mtr/ minute setting … it does .
. I can cut 2 " or less brass round bar , inch thick phosphor bronze bar .....eventually ( resorted to a 1 mm slitting disc on the angle grinder for the rest of the cuts ) and 3 inch aluminium square bar longitudinally in an 8 inch long cut without any problems whatsoever . I did use W 40 with the red extension tube to occasionally give a cooling /heat transfer lube to the cuts
I've also cut half a dozen 1/4 thick flat plate mild steel in to six inch long strips ( slowly and with a spray on thread cutting oil to transfer the heat off the blade ) , the blade still looks & cuts as good as the day I fitted it .
Maybe someone who has actually used a motor speed controller can /will tell you of their experiences & thoughts .
Hattori-hanzo
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Cheers for the info DAPPH I'll have another look into it. I've finished all the metal cutting now, well except for the blade so not in a rush to get any thing sorted, not until I start making another plane any way 
Finished the second video which I've just uploaded now.
The plane is coming along, both infills are made and I'm just working on the wedge now.
Got to wait a week for so for the tool steel to arrive then I can start making the blade.
Finished the second video which I've just uploaded now.
The plane is coming along, both infills are made and I'm just working on the wedge now.
Got to wait a week for so for the tool steel to arrive then I can start making the blade.
Hattori-hanzo
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Got the wedge finished this evening just got to sand it up. Worked a cupids bow into the bottom of it too which complements the bow in the bridge nicely.
Wenge dust leaves a really nasty taste in my mouth so masks on when sanding, not as bad as Iroko though the dust of which feels like inhaling razor blades!
Wenge dust leaves a really nasty taste in my mouth so masks on when sanding, not as bad as Iroko though the dust of which feels like inhaling razor blades!
Hattori-hanzo
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Tool steel for the blade has arrived so I can continue with the plane
Hattori-hanzo
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Just Finished Part 3 for any one following.
Hattori-hanzo
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I've made a start on the blade. It's tedious work, endless hours of flattening and sanding.
Just to make life even harder for me I've made it a snecked blade, this just means it has a "tang" on the heel end to aid in adjustment once fitted to the plane.
Still a lot more filing and sanding to do.
Just to make life even harder for me I've made it a snecked blade, this just means it has a "tang" on the heel end to aid in adjustment once fitted to the plane.
Still a lot more filing and sanding to do.
Hattori-hanzo
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Managed to get the etching done on the blade today.
This blade is narrower than the last so I asked my friend if he could laser me some new stencils which he kindly did.
I wasn't sure how well it would turn out as the stencil was half the size of the last one but thankfully it came out really well again so I'm pleased with that.
And again for any one interested part 4 has just gone up.
This blade is narrower than the last so I asked my friend if he could laser me some new stencils which he kindly did.
I wasn't sure how well it would turn out as the stencil was half the size of the last one but thankfully it came out really well again so I'm pleased with that.
And again for any one interested part 4 has just gone up.
Hattori-hanzo
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Re uploaded part 4 due to missing audio
