Help finding a bearing or seal

[minimutly]

Looking at that, it either needs a copper washer on the inner mating face to seal the shaft or, if there's enough plain shaft projecting, a Dowty washer under the nut holding the pulley onto the shaft. because of the keyway, an 'O' ring won't work.

A dowty washer wont't work, the shaft has a nut on it.

 

[Ubique]

A dowty washer wont't work, the shaft has a nut on it.

It would if it was at the bottom of the drive shaft, obviously the woodruff key would need to be removed to put it in place.

 

[fizzy]

George Lodge in Hull have massive stocks of NOS seals and bearings, going back to when they started in 1920! their excellent customer service has to be experienced to be believed!!
https://www.georgelodgedirect.co.uk. No connection, just a many time satisfied customer!

What an incredible selection on their website - all sorts of weird and wonderful stuff. Still can't find mine but a phonecall in order tomorrow.

 

[Rkweld]

A copper washer does not seem a bad idea, i am suprised that sealing washer was the only thing under the nut or was there a steel washer on top then the nut? You would think if the washer shrank with age or compressed due to it breaking down that your pulley would become loose.

 

[minimutly]

This sounds not a bad idea - except that copper is soft and can give when compressed. I would make a steel washer, new oilseal behind the pulley and assemble with a fair amount of non acidic silicon under the new washer. So you stop any leak from behind, and the silicon stops the real issue you had in the beginning - leaking from the front.

 

[Pete.]

Copper washers work fine. Ten million sump plugs can't be wrong...

 

[daedalusminos]

Is that a taper roller bearing - was any pre-load set on the pulley nut?

If you want to stay with leather lipped seal then Barnwell may be able to assist - I would check the ID measurment, it's most likely fractional imperial.

 

[fizzy]

Is that a taper roller bearing - was any pre-load set on the pulley nut?

If you want to stay with leather lipped seal then Barnwell may be able to assist - I would check the ID measurment, it's most likely fractional imperial.

No straight rollers.
I phoned Barnwell nothing the right size

 

[fizzy]

Clydach bearings have found them
The exact same size BUT they are leather - is that a problem?
Even older technology.

 

[daedalusminos]

Leather should be fine for low temp relatively low RPM - they're still made.

EDIT: Barnwell recommend 10m/s max, on your diameter that would equate to 6000rpm

 

[fizzy]

That should be fine then? I doubt the pulley is spinning that fast.

 

[Ubique]

This sounds not a bad idea - except that copper is soft and can give when compressed. I would make a steel washer, new oilseal behind the pulley and assemble with a fair amount of non acidic silicon under the new washer. So you stop any leak from behind, and the silicon stops the real issue you had in the beginning - leaking from the front.

That's why they're used in applications such as this, to form a seal on less than perfect surfaces such as under bolt / nut heads. As mentioned above, they work perfectly on engine sump drain plugs, even with all that heating & cooling going on.

 

[minimutly]

That's why they're used in applications such as this, to form a seal on less than perfect surfaces such as under bolt / nut heads. As mentioned above, they work perfectly on engine sump drain plugs, even with all that heating & cooling going on.

True enough. I'd still use a sealer under it to seal the shaft though.

 

[Ubique]

True enough. I'd still use a sealer under it to seal the shaft though.

I appreciate it's a different situation but generally it's verboten to put sealer on something that is going to have torque directly applied as it acts as a cushion and will eventually lead to torque relaxation (as the rubber / leather sealing material around the shaft has in this case) due to ageing and thermal changes. Yes, it's how things used to be done, but there are better ways now.

 

[Screwdriver]

Good grief, is this still going? Turns out, it was a leather seal. One assumes then that it has been fine for the last half a century so to save a decade of waffle, I suggest the OP shoves another leather washer in there and see if they can find a suitable alternative by, say, 2071. Should be plenty of time.

Meanwhile I have a selection of suitable leather and an extraordinary collection of circular punches for the flypress so if anyone wants to try a leather washer (!) give me the dimensions and I'll bonk some out...

 

[arther dailey]

Do the leather washers have to be soaked/conditioned before use ?

 

[Screwdriver]

Do the leather washers have to be soaked/conditioned before use ?

I would assume they swell up with oil so I'd probably soak them just prior to installation.

If I was doing it, I'd ask Google first of course.

 

[arther dailey]

just a thought remember back in the factory they used to soak some seals prior to fitting ,some one on here will be in the "know" for sure.

 

[fizzy]

Good grief, is this still going? Turns out, it was a leather seal. One assumes then that it has been fine for the last half a century so to save a decade of waffle, I suggest the OP shoves another leather washer in there and see if they can find a suitable alternative by, say, 2071. Should be plenty of time.

Meanwhile I have a selection of suitable leather and an extraordinary collection of circular punches for the flypress so if anyone wants to try a leather washer (!) give me the dimensions and I'll bonk some out...

It wasn't a leather seal. The original seal is rubber but nobody has the correct size - or even close really.
The ONLY replacement ones I can find are leather which is fine by me as long as they fit!

 

[minimutly]

I appreciate it's a different situation but generally it's verboten to put sealer on something that is going to have torque directly applied as it acts as a cushion and will eventually lead to torque relaxation (as the rubber / leather sealing material around the shaft has in this case) due to ageing and thermal changes. Yes, it's how things used to be done, but there are better ways now.

Now your just being silly. I'm saying no more.