How to remove this bearing

[fizzy]

The ongoing saga of my forklift. I have tested everything else - I am pretty sure the encoder on the steering motor is the faulty part.

I thought SKF only did bearings - apparently not.

I can't see any way to get this off without destroying it as the puller will grip on the sensor underneath. I assume it is pressed on?

https://www.nocoev.com/product/SKF_6202_VK2415_Encoder.htm#gsc.tab=0

 

[fizzy]

 

[Brad93]

Deep V puller

 

[Brad93]

SKF make tonnes of stuff. Never had a drill with SKF/Dormer printer on the box?

 

[fizzy]

Deep V puller

Where does that grip?

 

[Brad93]

You pop the seal out and insert the legs into the ball race groove and use the centre in the end of the shaft to pull the bearing off

 

[Brad93]

Here you go. Make sure you’re sitting down if you get a price.

 

[fizzy]

Ahh ok
Got it thanks

 

[Seadog]

Is that an O-ring groove? Remove the ring and locate a puller in the groove (thin blade type S.P.)

 

[Brad93]

Is that an O-ring groove? Remove the ring and locate a puller in the groove (thin blade type S.P.)

You’d need very very thin pullers to fit that recess. I think the photo is deceiving because the bearing has an ID of 15mm. That recess can only be 2mm wide.

May work, worth a try. You could even try a bearing separator type puller and see if that will clamp the groove.

 

[Shox Dr]

Leave it in the freezer over night.
Put an external circlip in the o-ring grove, and use that to pull on.
Warm up the bearing using a hot air gun.

(I hate pullers, they never seem to fit, always faff to use, and you need 6 pair of hands)

 

[Seadog]

Something like the knife jaws at the bottom would do the job, I think.

 

[Screwdriver]

I would bore a cylinder to be a perfect slip fit over the bearing. Machine a groove to accept a circlip or stainless wire ring. When the cylinder clips on over the bearing, it will never come off. Weld a nut on the other end to make a puller (or some other arrangement). Bit like a piston ring, either the circlip/wire expands out from the bearing to fit into the cylinder groove or it fits inside the cylinder and compresses over the bearing.

That would be a pretty risky strategy (once it's on , it is ON) so you might want to split the cylinder first and clamp it to allow it to be taken off in the event of <unforeseen> circumstance.

 

[awemawson]

I would first of all test the encoder, it should be very simple to do with a power supply two resistors and a meter or preferably a 'scope as per the schematic in the link that you posted. If both phases are switching on / off then it's OK and you need to look elsewhere.

At least that way you don't end up wrecking something that isn't the problem.

 

[Brad93]

Something like the knife jaws at the bottom would do the job, I think.

Yeah thats a bearing seperator. May work, depending how wide and deep the groove is.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

@fizzy's link says "free cable end" - does that mean that you could get rough on the old one, and the new one comes with the new electrical necessaries?

I have a small SP puller which just might do the job fizzy, yours to borrow if you want to try it.

 

[Wedg1e]

Meter the windings. If they're intact and not shorting to ground then it's probably not faulty.

 

[arther dailey]

eitherway now you have it this far apart it would be penny wise pound foolish not to change it

 

[ronan]

Is it just a normal 6202 ball bearing or is it something specially made for that motor ?

 

[Brad93]

Is it just a normal 6202 ball bearing or is it something specially made for that motor ?

It’s a 6202 with an integral encoder