Hydrovane upgrade

[daleyd]

Foot, Flange,& Shaft.

Sounds like some horrible disease

 

[WorkshopChris]

Sounds like some horrible disease

If i could like that twice i would, lets hope it not contagious.

 

[Ped]

The new motor turned up today. It looks like it should fit, fingers crossed.

The company that sold it to me say it needs a DOL starter. There is already a Condor MDR4 ST/11 pressure switch on the compressor, can I just use that? It's rated 16Amp/2kw. I'm guessing the 'ST' bit of that model number means starter? They mentioned overload protection on the DOL, I'm guessing the Condor switch might not have that?

 

[brightspark]

depends on how fussy you are and what u want to spend I don't bother with overloads on any of my gear im there all the time there running so anything amiss id notice and turn it off. if the gears getting used and left unattended then id put overload protection on

 

[Dcal]

Be interested to see how this works out.
Thinking of doing something similar myself as I need a new motor for a 13.

 

[awemawson]

Looking at the parts manual there doesn't seem to be any differences other than the motor coupling parts so it should work I reckon

Make sure that your over-pressure / blow off valve can cope with twice the airflow

 

[Ped]

Thanks Brightspark and thanks for the manual Awemawson.

I can’t use the Condor MD04 pressure/starter switch as it has built in 10amp overload protection and the new 2.2kw motor needs 13.

I think you can only buy pressure switches with combined overload protection in three phase now. Condor seems to have discontinued the single phase version found on the model 15 compressors. Unless anyone knows different?

So I’ll need a new pressure switch and if I want overload protection (to comply with the new motor warranty) a separate DOL starter too. I think!


Btw,
Before I ordered the new motor I received this from Gardner Denver:

“The model 5 1.1kw uses a 4 pole motor 1460 rpm D90 frame
The model 15 2.2kw uses a 2 pole motor 2800 rpm D90 frame
Please note, if you do fit a faster motor, the heat generated will also be twice as much. The compressor should be ok for stop-start operation but please make sure your compressor is operated in a well ventilated space. The compressor should not be modified for continuous run as the oil cooler is sized for stop-start operation only.”

 

[WorkshopChris]

So I’ll need a new pressure switch and if I want overload protection (to comply with the new motor warranty) a separate DOL starter too. I think!

Just get a new DOL starter and overload the Toolstation ones work out as good value, then use the existing pressure switch to operate the starter coil.

 

[brightspark]

you can buy a dol starter and wire the contactor coil through the pressure switch

 

[brightspark]

snap lol

 

[Ped]

Would you talk me through that?

Here's what the switch looks like on the inside. Cable to the motor is the one circled. There doesn't appear to any markings on the terminals.

This DOL is coming Friday:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DOL-Sing...var=580166076988&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

[WorkshopChris]

Would you talk me through that?

Here's what the switch looks like on the inside. Cable to the motor is the one circled. There doesn't appear to any markings on the terminals.

This DOL is coming Friday:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DOL-Sing...var=580166076988&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

When your DOL arrives post up a nice clear front on photo, should basically be:-
Mains into the top of the DOL.
Motor out of the bottom.
Take a wire between DOL & Pressure Switch- connect across the switch from where you took the 2 brown wires from and insert into the DOL (terminals to be confirmed) 3 Core a switch pair and earth.

I like the Toolstation ones as they have a proper switch for the start stop, that keeps things easy to alter,
From the picture it looks like the red on your new DOL may use a mechanical tab to operate overload directly and just 1 switch for the green start.

 

[Ped]

Ok Chris, will do.
Cheers
Ped

 

[knighty]

the old switch switches the positive and the negative (check with a meter just to make sure but I'm pretty sure it does)


would be easier to wire the negative directly and put the positive through both terminals of the old switch? - keeps everyhting nice and compact :-)

 

[awemawson]

the old switch switches the positive and the negative (check with a meter just to make sure but I'm pretty sure it does)


would be easier to wire the negative directly and put the positive through both terminals of the old switch? - keeps everyhting nice and compact :-)

I assume it's AC not DC so no positive and negative involved, unless you can count it going up and down 50 times a second

 

[brightspark]

live and neutral in switched live and neutral out. used in conjunction with the dol starter .just a 3 core flex from the switch to starter needed live in and switch wire out and the 3d earth

 

[WorkshopChris]

the old switch switches the positive and the negative (check with a meter just to make sure but I'm pretty sure it does)


would be easier to wire the negative directly and put the positive through both terminals of the old switch? - keeps everyhting nice and compact :-)

If i was doing this i would let the DOL starter handle all the switching and just use the pressure switch in the control circuit to operate the contactor coil.

 

[brightspark]

I just run my motor through a 20 amp double pole contactor using the pressure switch to operate the contactor coil . switch the compressor on and off manually with the red push pull switch on the pressure switch

 

[Ped]

While I'm waiting for the DOL (frustratingly they tried to deliver it earlier but I was in the workshop) I fitted the new motor to the compressor.

First the coupling/fan. The Hydrovane manual says a gap of 2mm between the face of the motor and the coupling for the model 5/501. I didn't touch the coupling on the compressor side.





A couple of steel rules made a perfect 2mm gauge.



The woodruff key (that was much longer than on the original motor) poked into the coupling housing and the rubber spider wouldn't sit properly.



I tried pulling out the key but it was stuck fast in it's slot so I got the hacksaw out and trimmed it in situ. Are they supposed to come out?




The rest was straightforward and the fan/coupling clears the housing on both sides.

One question though, in the lid of the new terminal box it says the motor can be wired for clockwise or counterclockwise rotation. Is this viewed from the drive end?

 

[Ped]

Hi @WorkshopChris here's the DOL. It's a big old box, I'll have to rig up some fancy bracket to mount it on.
Cheers
Ped