Hydrovane upgrade

[WorkshopChris]

Ok the easiest way i can see going with what you have is to:
Remove wire links between,
96 to 14
18 to 14
17 to 13
13 to A2
Then insert the 2 new wires from the pressure switch connected to where you previously removed either the brown or blue pair (it doesn't matter what pair you use) Between the terminals numbed 96 to A2.
Your mains in on L1 L3 and out to motor on 2 and 4 as in supplied diagram.

You will still operate the compressor as before and the pressure switch will operate the DOL Starter.

EDIT on L1 &L3

 

[knighty]

I can never tell by a diagram, need the contactor and overload in front of me... but aren't those links you're saying to remove there for the trip in the overload?

also, I think your last bit was just a typo, if he adds a link as per the diagram (so power flows through all contacts to make the overload work as intended) then he'll need power in L1 and L3, not L1+L2

 

[WorkshopChris]

I can never tell by a diagram, need the contactor and overload in front of me... but aren't those links you're saying to remove there for the trip in the overload?

also, I think your last bit was just a typo, if he adds a link as per the diagram (so power flows through all contacts to make the overload work as intended) then he'll need power in L1 and L3, not L1+L2

Good spot on the typo yes as diagram L1 and L3. That will teach me to work form the laptop and not the multi screen desktop.
The overload will still be in circuit via 95 & 96 the removed links are the start button and contactor holding switch.

 

[Ped]

OK, so I think I've got the idea but slightly confused by one thing, 96 wasn't linked to 14, 95 was though so i'm guessing that's what you meant?

So I can get my head round this I made a diagram of the connections. I think 17 and 18 are the connections to the switch on the right but it's not marked (this is why it's in brackets in the diagram). There's no way of disconnecting the wires from the switch so I just cut them off?

Here's what I started out with:



And here's what I think I need to end up with:





Is that correct?
Cheers
Ped

 

[WorkshopChris]

Looks good with one change, you can leave the switch wires just put a bit of tape over the ends, if the wire from the pressure switch goes to 95 and not 96 you will still have the thermal overload in circuit.
If you follow the control circuit through you will now have Neutral in on A1 then Live in form L3 to overload on 96 our on 95 to pressure switch and then back to the coil on A2.

 

[Ped]

Understood.

So I’m still leaving the A1/L1 link in place?

 

[WorkshopChris]

Understood.

So I’m still leaving the A1/L1 link in place?

Yes thats where the coil gets its neutral feed from.

 

[Ped]

Hmm, I must have done something wrong. It trips the breaker on the wall.

This is what I think I’ve done...
The pressure switch



This is what it looks like in reality:

 

[Ped]

The starter operates and the blue section moves down before the rcd trips.

I’ve set the overload to 13amps.

 

[Ped]

This is the rcd.

 

[Ped]

The wiring for the motor. It needs to run counterclockwise looking from the compressor end.

 

[WorkshopChris]

A bit tricky to see whats what from the photos but all looks to be as it should.
A quick test disconnect the one wire to the motor and make sure the contactor holds in ok.
If good then reconnect motor and remove one wire to coil, either will do.
Now with an insulated screwdriver manually push in the blue center of the contactor to confirm motor powers up and runs.
What does the flc on the motor data plate state? I would expect around 17 amp for a 3hp pulling around 25 amp at the start on a direct drive unit, the B16 won't be very happy with a load like that sitting on the end of it.

 

[Ped]

A bit tricky to see whats what from the photos but all looks to be as it should.
A quick test disconnect the one wire to the motor and make sure the contactor holds in ok.
If good then reconnect motor and remove one wire to coil, either will do.
Now with an insulated screwdriver manually push in the blue center of the contactor to confirm motor powers up and runs.
What does the flc on the motor data plate state? I would expect around 17 amp for a 3hp pulling around 25 amp at the start on a direct drive unit, the B16 won't be very happy with a load like that sitting on the end of it.

Thanks Chris, as you say the start amps were too much for the B16.
It just so happend two guys I know who work for Western Power came by and spotted it straight away.
I have a 32amp socket in the workshop so we swapped plugs and hey presto!

Thanks for your help with this, much appreciated.

 

[WorkshopChris]

No problems happy to help, glad you got it sorted.

 

[Ped]

One final question.

I only have one 32amp socket in the workshop. Can I safely replace the B16 with something bigger but still use the 16amp socket and plug?

The motor spec says it has a 75amp starting current so why doesn’t it trip the B32?

Ok, that’s two questions.

 

[brightspark]

a 32 amp b type breaker trips at 5 times the the full load current on start up . you cant just up the 16 amp breaker on the 16 amp socket the. cable size wont be large enough for the increase and neither ewould be the socket

 

[Ped]

a 32 amp b type breaker trips at 5 times the the full load current on start up . you cant just up the 16 amp breaker on the 16 amp socket the. cable size wont be large enough for the increase and neither ewould be the socket

So my only option is to change it to a 32amp socket?

 

[Ped]

So my only option is to change it to a 32amp socket?

Or maybe one of these would work?

https://www.electricaldirect.co.uk/...ingle-pole-mcb-type-c-723514#prod_description

 

[WorkshopChris]

Or maybe one of these would work?

https://www.electricaldirect.co.uk/...ingle-pole-mcb-type-c-723514#prod_description

Still depends on the cable installed and your earthing arrangements.
If the cable is big enough it will be an option.

 

[Lewi kearney]

Hey, hate to dig up and old post, but I'm currently wiring up the same system. With identical starter and motor and a hydrovane.
Everything is good except the stop button is only acting momentarily. As in won't stay stopped when finger is moved.
Would anyone have any ideas?