I have just purchased a Boxford Lathe

[JulieandTony]

Read "know your lathe" cover to cover, it is specifically designed around this lathe.

But seeing the prices for physical copies - ffs!

(for flips sake!)

 

[123hotchef]

cool thanks mate 1.25 1.5 and 1.75 i guess are the main for me

 

[123hotchef]

Read "know your lathe" cover to cover, it is specifically designed around this lathe.

But seeing the prices for physical copies - ffs!

(for flips sake!)

id like a original the pics are bad in the pdf

 

[JulieandTony]

cool thanks mate 1.25 1.5 and 1.75 i guess are the main for me

Yes worryingly I remembered the gears for 1.0, 1.25, 1.5, and 1.75 - we sold the boxford and changed to a Harrison m250 around '97!

But obviously these are the common ones M6, M8, M10, and M12

 

[123hotchef]

I had most of the main ones for the common thread pitches, but it depends on what is included with your purchase

But they are all available usually on ebay and other places

if it was used for wood i presume none of the extra gears

 

[JulieandTony]

if it was used for wood i presume none of the extra gears

Yeah, you will need to check which gears are fitted if any, for wood they probably wouldn't have used the gearbox, so may have removed the change gears.

Really needs a good clean if it's been used for wood, surprisingly corrosive and damaging

 

[123hotchef]

Yeah, you will need to check which gears are fitted if any, for wood they probably wouldn't have used the gearbox, so may have removed the change gears.

Really needs a good clean if it's been used for wood, surprisingly corrosive and damaging

are the the gears in the left side end

 

[JulieandTony]

are the the gears in the left side end

Yes, as standard there will be the idler from the changeover the larger idler on the banjo arm, and then two on the gearbox large and small

These three places are where the 56, 127/100, and the selected stud gear go

 

[123hotchef]

Yes, as standard there will be the idler from the changeover the larger idler on the banjo arm, and then two on the gearbox large and small

These three places are where the 56, 127/100, and the selected stud gear go

great there were all the gears present not sure what ratios they were they were well greased

 

[JulieandTony]

great there were all the gears present not sure what ratios they were they were well greased

If it's an imperial machine then on the end of the gearbox should be 56t, the large idler on the banjo is 80t, and the one at the forward /reverse is either 20t or 40t - normally 20t with the 40t stored on top of the 56t gear, if you need coarser threads, then switch to the 40t

Then add the 27/100, 32t, 24t, & 28t for the metric (and the 20t & 40t for 1.25mm and 2.5mm/5mm)

 

[123hotchef]

so they would be the extra gears I need to purchase?

 

[Pete.]

Nice one. I don't agree with a total strip down just a thorough clean and lube job. Pull the slides and clean them out, adjust the gibs. Check the gearbox isn't full of gunge (but is full of oil if it has it) and run through the full lube regime in the manual.

I had mixed emotions about the value of it at first glance but now I think you haven't done too bad. If you were to buy the steadies, chucks, compound milling slide, face-plates and milling table separately the amount it would cost you taken off the purchase price would make the remainder a cheap buy. Also despite being grubby it doesn't look like it's seen very much use. If you get the rust off the slides and follow a good oiling regime it'll last a long time.

 

[JulieandTony]

so they would be the extra gears I need to purchase?

It really depends on what pitches you need to thread , the big one is the 127/100 as this switches imperial to metric, and is the most expensive.

After that if you learn the gearbox you would be able to do some already, for example, with the 20t gear, selecting the 16tpi setting on the gearbox would give you 1.25mm pitch, sooooo
8tpi setting would give 2.5mm pitch just the same as 16tpi setting with a 40t gear

And so on .

So select the pitch you need and work back to the gears you need, remembering that you can get the same pitches with different gear/tpi settings - not just those on the table

 

[123hotchef]

Nice one. I don't agree with a total strip down just a thorough clean and lube job. Pull the slides and clean them out, adjust the gibs. Check the gearbox isn't full of gunge (but is full of oil if it has it) and run through the full lube regime in the manual.

I had mixed emotions about the value of it at first glance but now I think you haven't done too bad. If you were to buy the steadies, chucks, compound milling slide, face-plates and milling table separately the amount it would cost you taken off the purchase price would make the remainder a cheap buy. Also despite being grubby it doesn't look like it's seen very much use. If you get the rust off the slides and follow a good oiling regime it'll last a long time.

and it is 1.5 miles away!

 

[123hotchef]

It really depends on what pitches you need to thread , the big one is the 127/100 as this switches imperial to metric, and is the most expensive.

After that if you learn the gearbox you would be able to do some already, for example, with the 20t gear, selecting the 16tpi setting on the gearbox would give you 1.25mm pitch, sooooo
8tpi setting would give 2.5mm pitch just the same as 16tpi setting with a 40t gear

And so on .

So select the pitch you need and work back to the gears you need, remembering that you can get the same pitches with different gear/tpi settings - not just those on the table

i am starting to get it! I think metric would be all I really need to cut M10 M12 M14 and M16 1.25 1.5 and 2

 

[MattF]

Nice one. I don't agree with a total strip down just a thorough clean and lube job. Pull the slides and clean them out, adjust the gibs. Check the gearbox isn't full of gunge (but is full of oil if it has it) and run through the full lube regime in the manual.

Same here. Strip & restore is nice when you have the time, but if you just want a working lathe, go with a quick overhaul.

 

[123hotchef]

thats good because I dont have that kind of time! I am working 3 jobs to pay for it!

 

[JulieandTony]

i am starting to get it! I think metric would be all I really need to cut M10 M12 M14 and M16 1.25 1.5 and 2

Ok just going from memory, but as standard you should have a 20t gear, with a 16tpi setting this would give 1.25mm pitch, so 20tpi would give 1.25 x 16/20 which is 1mm pitch
10tpi would give 1.25 x 16/10 which is 2mm pitch

So with the standard gears plus a 127/100 you can cut M6, M8, M14, and M16

For M10 you will need a gear either 24t or 48t to give 1.5mm pitch
For M12 you will need a gear 28t for 1.75mm pitch (or a second 56t gear)

Once you learn the gearbox , it's easy to adapt the gear/tpi settings to suit

 

[123hotchef]

Ok just going from memory, but as standard you should have a 20t gear, with a 16tpi setting this would give 1.25mm pitch, so 20tpi would give 1.25 x 16/20 which is 1mm pitch
10tpi would give 1.25 x 16/10 which is 2mm pitch

So with the standard gears plus a 127/100 you can cut M6, M8, M14, and M16

For M10 you will need a gear either 24t or 48t to give 1.5mm pitch
For M12 you will need a gear 28t for 1.75mm pitch (or a second 56t gear)

Once you learn the gearbox , it's easy to adapt the gear/tpi settings to suit

it sounds complicated but once you get your head around it i am sure it is not

 

[pressbrake1]

Nice one. I don't agree with a total strip down just a thorough clean and lube job. Pull the slides and clean them out, adjust the gibs. Check the gearbox isn't full of gunge (but is full of oil if it has it) and run through the full lube regime in the manual.

I had mixed emotions about the value of it at first glance but now I think you haven't done too bad. If you were to buy the steadies, chucks, compound milling slide, face-plates and milling table separately the amount it would cost you taken off the purchase price would make the remainder a cheap buy. Also despite being grubby it doesn't look like it's seen very much use. If you get the rust off the slides and follow a good oiling regime it'll last a long time.

You have to remember spencer is insane and likes restoring and painting more than using them!
I ll stick by lifting the saddle to clean the oil grooves, it’s part of service work