I have just purchased a Boxford Lathe

[pressbrake1]

I don’t think any of my machines were useable when I bought them, they were either choked with sawdust, paint, or had dud motors, however I have a lovely little collection of quality machinery now. Worth it if you have the time!

Other than a couple of lathes every one has needed work, big expensive work. Makes one numb to the pleasure! Had a job for my monarch but it’s ended up turning into a re scrape and turcite job before I can use it

 

[Dieselman 63]

Other than a couple of lathes every one has needed work, big expensive work. Makes one numb to the pleasure! Had a job for my monarch but it’s ended up turning into a re scrape and turcite job before I can use it

I quite enjoy a machine restoration now. There’s always one thing which proves to be Pandora’s box but you gain experience and knowledge by doing it. Reapplying filler however is a continuously boring task!

 

[brightspark]

I quite enjoy a machine restoration now. There’s always one thing which proves to be Pandora’s box but you gain experience and knowledge by doing it. Reapplying filler however is a continuously boring task!

you want to see the castings on the 1935 rapidor there diabolical. would take a month to grind the flashings off them and fill the pits . that's why im just lamping paint on it

 

[Seadog]

i cant find a reverse switch on it though, is there a replacment gearbox for metric thread cutting

Nice buy, especially the boring table and milling attachment. They're worth around £600 alone.

Don't think about changing the gearbox, buy a 100/127 conversion gear, you have the best of both worlds then.

Adding a forward/reverse switch is easy, do that when you rebuild it.

 

[Seadog]

It's a mechanical reverse not electrical (lever just above the Norton gearbox and to the left)

That is a the tumbler reverse. It just reverses the lead screw rotation.

 

[God mode restorations]

I quite enjoy a machine restoration now. There’s always one thing which proves to be Pandora’s box but you gain experience and knowledge by doing it. Reapplying filler however is a continuously boring task!

Same here.

 

[Dieselman 63]

you want to see the castings on the 1935 rapidor there diabolical. would take a month to grind the flashings off them and fill the pits . that's why im just lamping paint on it

Lol yes I have a 1930s era Woden vice with an anvil, which had a great fat seam line down the middle. That took ages to file and pein off. You can fill deep holes with lead hammered in.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

you want to see the castings on the 1935 rapidor there diabolical. would take a month to grind the flashings off them and fill the pits . that's why im just lamping paint on it

Lol yes I have a 1930s era Woden vice with an anvil, which had a great fat seam line down the middle. That took ages to file and pein off. You can fill deep holes with lead hammered in.

I was really lucky. Smart and brown castings were excellent. No filing. No filling other than a few bits to the rear of the cabinet. Strip clean and paint.

 

[Pete.]

If you want to see really lovely castings look at Mikron. They don't even paint them.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

If you want to see really lovely castings look at Mikron. They don't even paint them.

Had to google them but see what you mean.

 

[JulieandTony]

That is a the tumbler reverse. It just reverses the lead screw rotation.

Oops, yes you're right, it appears it is much longer since I last used it - my mistake.

And I thought I was doing well remembering all the gears from 20 years ago.

I am more senile than I thought

 

[brightspark]

its not the end of the world not having reverse so don't get 2 hung up on it will probably be years before may even ever need it I have only used mine a couple of times thread cutting without disengaging the lead screw

 

[Seadog]

its not the end of the world not having reverse so don't get 2 hung up on it will probably be years before may even ever need it I have only used mine a couple of times thread cutting without disengaging the lead screw

But essential if the OP is going to cut metric threads. As I said earlier, it's easily sorted out, the majority of motors are reversible, as you know BS.

 

[brightspark]

But essential if the OP is going to cut metric threads. As I said earlier, it's easily sorted out, the majority of motors are reversible, as you know BS.

ok if he gets the 127 tooth change wheel gear for metric

 

[pressbrake1]

But essential if the OP is going to cut metric threads. As I said earlier, it's easily sorted out, the majority of motors are reversible, as you know BS.

There is a way around it

 

[rikrobson]

There is a 3mm leads crew for metric Boxford but an a or aud will need a different gearbox or a b bud leadscrew. The apron gears will need changing too. There is a different indicator too with 2 gears on it at 21 and 22 teeth depending on the thread. You can cur metric oban imperial but you need the 100/127 compound gear. You will need to stop and reverse the tathe though as the indicator will not work for 8nperial nmetric conversions.

 

[Pete.]

You can use the thread dial and half nuts but you still need to reverse, and follow a specific procedure.

 

[123hotchef]

Yikes sounds like i have a lot to learn.

 

[Pete.]

It's not so difficult. TBH I would just concentrate on getting the machine situated, set up, lubed and adjusted. Turn a few bits and worry about threadcutting later. I could run you through the basics but I am a bit snowed under right now.

 

[123hotchef]

It's not so difficult. TBH I would just concentrate on getting the machine situated, set up, lubed and adjusted. Turn a few bits and worry about threadcutting later. I could run you through the basics but I am a bit snowed under right now.

yes situating and setting it up will take me a while i need to have a clear out, Do they have to be on dead level ground?