I have just purchased a Boxford Lathe

[123hotchef]

If you've a decent carbide drill and you can mount everything rigidly you'll probably be OK. What's to lose? Apart from a carbide drill, that is

Well I snapped a slightly bigger drill bit in there earlier so there are 2 to drill out now about 50mm worth

 

[123hotchef]

Is there already a through hole.

Yes sir 14.5mm the other end it snapped as it was about to break through

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Yes sir 14.5mm the other end it snapped as it was about to break through

Nothing lost by turning it around in a vice shoving a bar through and giving the attitude adjuster a look then.
Might be enough to knock it free.

 

[Seadog]

If it's at point of breaking through can you punch it with a BFH and a decent piece of steel?

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

How are you snapping bits mate.
Not had one snap on me as yet in the lathe.
How's the tailstock alignment

Are you backing it out to clear chips and getting some CT90 on. (Assuming you bought some)

 

[123hotchef]

I tried a bfh and a punch it would not move I will try again now i have 2 stuck. I think the tail stock is aligned ok. I need to check more finely I think yes plenty of ct90 I might need to back out more with the smaller sizes

 

[Seadog]

Even the larger sizes can bind. The amount of heat generated is significant. The smaller the drill the more frequently it needs to be withdrawn, cleaned, and lubed.

 

[123hotchef]

Even the larger sizes can bind. The amount of heat generated is significant. The smaller the drill the more frequently it needs to be withdrawn, cleaned, and lubed.

Yes the part does get pretty hot after drilling it out to 14.5mm down it's 120mm length

 

[Pete.]

Just make sure that if you ever need to turn and bore something that ends up with thin walls, you do the boring first - most especially if it's stainless or anything harder. If you turn the OD then drill and bore it can cause the OD to grow slightly, and it's permanent. I learned that one the hard way...

 

[123hotchef]

Just make sure that if you ever need to turn and bore something that ends up with thin walls, you do the boring first - most especially if it's stainless or anything harder. If you turn the OD then drill and bore it can cause the OD to grow slightly, and it's permanent. I learned that one the hard way...

I shall remember that one,

well the bigger drill bit came out when i whacked it, must have been the shock but the smaller one is stuck fast,

 

[Seadog]

Do you have a masonry drill of a similar size? You may get away with using that with a quick regrind of the tip.

 

[123hotchef]

Do you have a masonry drill of a similar size? You may get away with using that with a quick regrind of the tip.

I do yes I have plenty of HSS bits of all sizes too would a masonry bit be better then? I could even use a rottabroach cutter and cut a 12mm slug out instead then bore it out

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

I do yes I have plenty of HSS bits of all sizes too would a masonry bit be better then? I could even use a rottabroach cutter and cut a 12mm slug out instead then bore it out

Masonry bits are often tipped with tungsten Carbide.
Need a green wheel to sharpen.

 

[Seadog]

You have a Rotabroach? Job done

 

[123hotchef]

Rotabroach it is then,

 

[123hotchef]

I made a little rack for my chucks.
This afternoon.

 

[brightspark]

stick a centerdrill in one. there the most used. I leave one in one of mine

 

[123hotchef]

stick a centerdrill in one. there the most used. I leave one in one of mine

I shall do just waiting on some new ones to come

 

[slim_boy_fat]

I made a little rack for my chucks.

Much neatness!!

 

[Seadog]

Better still, get hold of some MT2 blank arbors.