Thx used that before it is only good for smart repairs and I found it
To be so thick I had to over reduce quite a bit to be sprayable I was
Hoping I could use this 2k with the uni binder in with a charcoal mask
you should be fine with the charcoal mask.still make sure you have proper ventilation and that the mask is up to it and it has a good seal on your face.just because there is no ISO in there doesn't mean there isn't something else to mess up your day.
One other q on this, I just bought the Jawal kit, as well as my bumper I now have a big scratch down the side of my volvo I need to fix so will hopefully have a go this weekend, the question, after I use this can I just use a standard gun wash thinner to clean the gun?
Bit of a thread revival here. I'm new here but have been following this thread closely. Few questions:
What are our thoughts on the Valspar products; has anyone used it more or done further testing additional to what's mentioned above?
Has anyone used/heard of Nisocoat 2? Just been on the blower to HMG about this and it's a different system to isocyanate/non-isocyanate in that you need to use both specific topcoat and hardner (as opposed to the valspar product where you can use standard 2k colour).
I'm looking to repspray my car and refuse to use Isocyanate containing 2k, but I want the finish to last. I already have some iso 2k base colour so to save cost could use the valspar product. However, if the nisocoat is better I'd reather use that despite the additional costs. I think it's going to cost around £130 for everything for the nisocoat product, but that is with 4l of paint!
hi i also am trying to find a suitable clearcoat to use as i dont have the equipment to spray iso 2k looked into the hmg niscoat system msds still says airfed when sprayed if so why produce this when you would just use 2k iso ?
im going to try the valsper uni binder with some 2k as i have a wing and door to do soon any info on any other paint systems iso free gladly recieved thx
I may take a punt on the Valspar product too. The solvent tests seem good (according to the above experiences), its the long term finish I'm most 'concerned' about as I don't want to be repainting the car again in a few years because the finish has faded. Also I'm unsure about the finish from the gun. 2K gives a great finish as standard, will the Valspar product alter this?
HMG do have stockists around the country. Best to give them a ring to see if there's one near you. Price wise, its not too expensive, but you have to buy in bulk and you have to use both parts from them. It's not like unibinder that works with any 2k basecoat. The colour coat was £60-odd for 4 liters with the hardner comiing in at around £20 per liter iirc. The thinners are universal so that's not a problem. If you wanted to do both primer and top coat, your looking in the region of £150 notes and a lot of paint left over. At least with the valspar unibinder you can use any old 2k base you might have or get a liter mixed up, thus reducing costs. This is the major factor putting me off the Nisocoat as I don't want to fork out for a load of paint I won't use.
I have a stockist near me and I'm wondering whether he is able to mix up smaller batches. I'll have to give them a ring later and I'll update on here
Phoned up the supplier near me and he is actually an industrial paint stockist. He said he could get the product, but it would again be in 5l amounts. Although he said he could get a paint match, I got the impression the paint was designed with industrial use in mind.
I had a long talk with him and he said that, so long as the isocyanates are not atomised, and I wear a carbon canister mask, spraying iso shouldn't be a problem. Now that goes against what I've heard/read although does tie in with what I've seen many body shops actually do! There is no doubt the stuff is dangerous, but is it as dangerous as everyone makes out? And more importantly, is it carcinogenic?
Anyone with any more experience with the unibinder?
the iso,s will be atomised if spraying when i used to work as a painter in a bodyshop some of us would wear charcoal half masks others airfed but we were in top of the range booths with so much airflow which you wont have at home or in a workshop. i have sprayed 2k a lot of times just in a double garage and been ok but im now getting older and more worried by it so will use the unibinder instead, i dont believe isocyanate is carcigenic its just that you may be sensitized and end up with asthma brought on by the slightest thing .
I already have asthma, so am really looking to avoid unnecessary exposure (it's not serious) but I'm a little slack with celly. Have always worn a half mask when previously spraying 2K, but I've never attempted more than a panel. I'm looking to do a whole car now
no i havent tried unibinder im trying to find something to spray at home which wont kill me and the neighbours, i have been using churchills non iso 2k but i found you have to over reduce it so much to spray it. im going to order some uni binder and give it ago as i have a few jobs to do, does anyone else haveany experience with unibinder please feel free to comment many thx
The uni binder is very thick and needs more thinners added to spray, it converts the 2k paint to air drying 1k, it isn't a true hardener as in 2k. I have used it on primer and am pleased with it, not used on top coat yet but will do shortly. I presume the uni binder is very similar to churchill non iso 2k.
just a small update on the uni binder,the panel i painted last september has held up well so far.there is just one thing i would add as slight down side and that is that if your using it try and get all the painting done in one shot.the reason i say this is there is a small sction i went back over about a week after the original coat and it seems to have a slight powdery look [FOR WANT OF A BETTER DISCRIPTION]off it.it still shines up ok in this area but from some angles it can be seen.the rest of the panel is perfect and still holding its shine as good as 2k.
Could the powdery area not be flatted and polished? Personally I'd be doing all the spraying at once, so this hopefully wouldn't be an issue. Will order some up this week I think
Could the powdery area not be flatted and polished? Personally I'd be doing all the spraying at once, so this hopefully wouldn't be an issue. Will order some up this week I think
well ye i suppose it could be sanded or rubbed down but bare in mind its just one panel.if your talking bout a whole car and then you throw things like sand threw into the mix it really becomes a false economy in a way.my best and only advice would be to do a lot of consecutive coats bearing in mind that the uni binder does not give as good a finish straight of the gun and will need wet sanding anyway [in my unexperienced opinion using a fairly cheep draper gun].its better to have to much on there than to little.best of luck whatever you decide.
I used upol 1k ready for use on some mirror backs I painted, went on really well but did dry dull so needed wet sanding and polishing, I presume 2k paint with uni binder is very similar as it converts the paint to 1k. I am going to try my high build primer with normal hardener but roller it on see how it compares as with the unibinder you have to take more care when sanding especially dry as it picks up easy. I will probably use it on my top coat as I don't want to spray 2k. Another option with primer is use my compressor for a mask and a cheap earlex hvlp to spray the primer, which I may do after my trials with a roller.
The unibinder is ok but not as good as proper 2k, in fact for the ease of use I would probably use upol 1k clear in preference.