old yellar
Member
- Messages
- 48
why use a hardener with your high build attall?
- Thread starter MonsterLandrover
- Start date
why use a hardener with your high build attall?
It won't set without a hardener but I could use upol p88 high build but wanted to try 2k as its better, but with the unibinder is better than p88 but not as good as with proper hardener as it still softens when over sprayed with high solvent top coat where a true 2k hardener once the paint has gone off it won't be effected by thinners at all as it is a chemical reaction I believe similar to how body filler goes off.
Homeworker
Member
- Messages
- 12
Well i sprayed some 2K primer + Unibinder earlier. It seemed to come out very 'bitty' as old paint with hard bits in does. It's given a texture very similar to that of stone chip from a Shlutz gun does. I'm not sure if it was sufficiently thinned. I made it up as per instructions for 2K primer 4.1 20% thinners. Can anyone recommend how much more it needs to be thinned? It had started to flatten out a bit as I was leaving the workshop, but I haven't had a chance to check how its gone off
Homeworker
Member
- Messages
- 12
Thanks for that. So you stuck with the 4:1 (Primer:unibinder) ratio, but upped the thinners? How long did it take to go off? I noticed it was still soft even after about 10-15 minutes.
Did you also find that the unibinder was a struggle to get it to mix with the primer? I found i had to work it pretty hard to get a homogenous mixture, otherwise the unibinder sort of stuck all together. Is it worth heating the unibinder before mixing it in in a simialr way to stone chip paint?
Did you also find that the unibinder was a struggle to get it to mix with the primer? I found i had to work it pretty hard to get a homogenous mixture, otherwise the unibinder sort of stuck all together. Is it worth heating the unibinder before mixing it in in a simialr way to stone chip paint?
Homeworker
Member
- Messages
- 12
Well i thinned the mixture more today, around 35%. Went on much better and smoother. I also sprayed a very thin layer of pure thinners over the panel too, which helped even more. When rubbed down it was perfect
Are you trying to lose the clear on a flat panel as that may be difficult, the small amount of upol 1k clear I used I blended on a curve near a corner and that was ok, was just practicing on a car wheel arch panel I had. I just found it did run easily but put that down to my lack of practice
The runs I have sussed, I put on light.coats, setting the flow lock on the gun to be.sure as more than a gentle wet coat does run. Or worse, cooks the base coat.
I have blended on some strong curves which does help but in other areas where not possible a shadow can be seen when viewed at an angle.
I've not tried with 2k so not sure if this also happens. The 1k definitely gives the paint a darker tone. I am using silver, probably not such an issue with darker colours.
the snooper
getting older by the day
- Messages
- 21,063
- Location
- Hull UK
are you using the correct thinner ie not cheap celly thinner that has a tint to it as that darkens the clear coat
The upol is ready for use. I'll attach a pic to give an idea. Not a great area to try and blend but the quarter panel has very wide pillars and did not want to clear a whole area in 1k when the painted area was only the size of a playing card plus the base blend. The stripes are the lighting not on the car as taken with a phone camera but that is the effect when seen at a sharp angle. Straight on you cannot see it so assume the 1k has a different refractive index to the original clear coat.
That or I'm doing something wrong but no idea what.
the snooper
getting older by the day
- Messages
- 21,063
- Location
- Hull UK
The corner of the arch is where I painted but as that is curved the pic has only picked up the area you marked. That is where the blend ends. Its not quite as bad as it looks, with the spot light on and the camera effect has exaggerated a bit but it will be noticeable in sunlight.
this pic is of a full wing I cleared, the top of the wing is original paint as the base blend only goes up half way. Its not been flatted/polished yet but you can tell a difference.
this pic is of a full wing I cleared, the top of the wing is original paint as the base blend only goes up half way. Its not been flatted/polished yet but you can tell a difference.
the snooper
getting older by the day
- Messages
- 21,063
- Location
- Hull UK
don't know if its just the camera but is the base a good match ?
base coat always looks darker with clear on it and from those picture it looks to have a redish tint to it
base coat always looks darker with clear on it and from those picture it looks to have a redish tint to it
The red is just the camera phone not adapting to the bright lighting well.
The base is a bit light but has blended up from the arch quite well. The top of the wing is the original base/clear with the 1k on top (scuffed wet with 2000)
At some angles it is the same as the 2k bonnet and others it has a hint of blue/grey.
The best way to describe it is like newspaper where the 1k is like a damp patch changing the colour of the dry paper if you see what I mean.
I dont know if this tone will fade or get worse. The wing was painted last week. The panel gap breaks it up a bit but this is why the blend on the rear quarter is more obvious.
Homeworker
Member
- Messages
- 12
So i've been having more trouble with this. When spraying the colour coats, using the unibinder hardner, i'm getting really bad solvent pop. I have taken to spraying very light coats and waiting for it to flash off. Problem is I can't lay enough paint on at a time to get a smooth coat. I'm thinned down about 45-50% as the unibinder is very thick. Any ideas?
Homeworker
Member
- Messages
- 12
Well an update.
I've decided to sack this off as I'm having far too many problems with it. It's fine when I use it with primer, drys and sands lovely although does need thinning substantially. However, as mentioned above with the colour coats, I was plagued with awful sovent pop. On top of this, the paint won't dry. I sprayed a panel about 2 months ago, and its still soft!
So I rubbed the colour coat, with solvent pop, smooth and primed again. However, the primer 'cracked' when sprayed over the colour coat which made a total mess of the whole car. If I spray colour onto colour its fine, and when I use normal 2K and spray this onto colour then its fine too. There's obviously something in the primer thats reactin, but I don't know what. When I spray the primer (with unibinder) onto standard 2K colour coat all is fine. It's a bloody nightmare.
So to summarise, I'm using unibinder and 2K primer but normal 2K colour coat. Not ideal but i'm now out of time and I know I can spray 2k fine.
Anyone had similar issues with it not drying/reacting?
I've decided to sack this off as I'm having far too many problems with it. It's fine when I use it with primer, drys and sands lovely although does need thinning substantially. However, as mentioned above with the colour coats, I was plagued with awful sovent pop. On top of this, the paint won't dry. I sprayed a panel about 2 months ago, and its still soft!
So I rubbed the colour coat, with solvent pop, smooth and primed again. However, the primer 'cracked' when sprayed over the colour coat which made a total mess of the whole car. If I spray colour onto colour its fine, and when I use normal 2K and spray this onto colour then its fine too. There's obviously something in the primer thats reactin, but I don't know what. When I spray the primer (with unibinder) onto standard 2K colour coat all is fine. It's a bloody nightmare.
So to summarise, I'm using unibinder and 2K primer but normal 2K colour coat. Not ideal but i'm now out of time and I know I can spray 2k fine.
Anyone had similar issues with it not drying/reacting?
langy
langys rodshop
- Messages
- 6,095
- Location
- London
