- Thread starter Parm
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If it’s the sort of stringing that Parm shows in his post at the top of p23, it’s usually because the print hasn’t stuck to the bed,,which it turn may be because of a dirty bed surface, or the nozzle height not adjusted correctly. You can also get very fine stringing, eh across holes or between different components if more than one is being printed at a time. I’ve never bothered worrying about this as it’s easy to clean it up when the print has finished. I think that playing with the settings may help as I remember watching a YouTube video on how to improve quality.Another question.What's the primary cause of stringing?
tflnemesis
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Another question.
Usually controlled by retraction and coasting settings, length and speed. Does vary by filament type, petg is terrible for it, I spent 2 weeks tuning my retraction settings but still get stringing from travel moves but is as good as I can get it. If your prints are good with minimal cleanup I wouldn't bother messing with it.
Messing with the settings can greatly improve your prints but takes a lot of time even with relatively short print times when testing.
When testing retraction settings I ended up printing something like 70 prints at 45 minutes each. Only changing one setting at a time and then only small changes.
ajlelectronics
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My printer and PETG arrived today. I'm a bit concerned about the comments above about PETG, I was hoping to just connect it all up and print a couple of brake flush funnels for BMW.
ajlelectronics
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The 32 bit upgraded version. £280 on Amazon but I paid £170 delivered from the manufacturer's website. I got a Kilo of black PLA and a kilo of blue PETG to make the brake flush funnels which I need urgently.
The brake flush funnel for BMW.
BMW oil top up funnel
Bladevane
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I offer a quote from the Prusa website. "If you don’t feel like tweaking any of the settings, well, then there is an alternative. You can get rid of the strings with a heat gun (or often with a lighter – but be very careful). Set your heat-gun to around 200°C and aim at the strings for one or two seconds. This will melt the strings, and the printed object should remain undamaged."
MattF
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Nice. The hot air gun on the soldering station will be perfect for that application.
skotl
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Pretty much exclusively!I take it "f'ed if I know" is going to be a common answer you give yourself then?
bigegg
Scream Not Working Because Space Make Deaf
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Does anyone else have a resin printer rather than a filament (FDM) one?
Just beginning to think I'll be asking myself for advice as it doesn't seem like anyone else has one...
It's on my "to buy" list.
I'll know who to ask...
