I've Gone and Done Something Mental

[MattF]

Yeah I have both.

You should have let him sweat a little.

 

[PhillipM]

I didn't say I was gonna help him

 

[Newlands]

When it comes to quality, I noticed today that there is a plug-in called (appropriately enough for this forum) Arc Welder. I think it works by replacing bits of the g code that have multiple x and y coordinates with g code for arc radius and arc length to give smoother curves. Not sure how it works with the slicing software, or how effective it is, though it also claims to reduce the file size dramatically and therefore reducing the buffering.
Anyone more clued up about it than I am?

 

[AndersK]

It doesn't work on all machines, firmware must support G2 and G3 movements.
But for those that do it really reduces the G- code and can reduce artefacts due to less buffering. Without it the slicer chops up an arc in many short straight lines, generating a lot of g code lines where it just takes one line if G2 or G3 is used.

https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G2_.26_G3:_Controlled_Arc_Move

G2 & G3: Controlled Arc Move​

grbl	Sprinter	BFB	FiveD	Machinekit	Redeem	Teacup	Yaskawa
Support	Marlin	RepRapFirmware	Repetier	Smoothie	Klipper	Prusa	MK4duo	MakerBot
Yes1	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes3	Yes2	Yes	No
Yes	Yes	No	No	Yes	Experimental	No	Yes

Usage
G2 Xnnn Ynnn Innn Jnnn Ennn Fnnn (Clockwise Arc)G3 Xnnn Ynnn Innn Jnnn Ennn Fnnn (Counter-Clockwise Arc)
Parameters
Xnnn The position to move to on the X axis
Ynnn The position to move to on the Y axis
Innn The point in X space from the current X position to maintain a constant distance from
Jnnn The point in Y space from the current Y position to maintain a constant distance from
Ennn The amount to extrude between the starting point and ending point
Fnnn The feedrate per minute of the move between the starting point and ending point (if supplied)

ExamplesG2 X90.6 Y13.8 I5 J10 E22.4

(Move in a Clockwise arc from the current point to point (X=90.6,Y=13.8), with a center point at (X=current_X+5, Y=current_Y+10), extruding 22.4mm of material between starting and stopping)

 

[Ali]

This is what I fancy - a resin printer:

View attachment 301462

Sadly, at £280 you also need one of these at another £115

View attachment 301463



But I have absolutely no need for one, nothing to build, and nowhere to put it (especially with the resin fumes to contend with).

cheapo nail salon uv lamp works fine. Not to encourage you. I’ve heard that model is pretty good but the resin printers I’ve used have been horribly messy for not much advantage.

 

[skotl]

cheapo nail salon uv lamp works fine. Not to encourage you. I’ve heard that model is pretty good but the resin printers I’ve used have been horribly messy for not much advantage.

Too late. I blame wine...

 

[AndersK]

Prusa has a free pdf for download "Basics of 3D printing" that could be of interest to those who are new to or considering 3D printing.

Basics of 3D Printing with Josef Prusa | Original Prusa 3D printers directly from Josef Prusa

Thank you for your interest in our free e-book!Download the e-book (PDF)By entering your mail you also signed up to my newsletter. I will occasiona...

www.prusa3d.com

 

[ChrisBailey]

This 3d printing is very addictive.
Very easy too.

 

[ajlelectronics]

My printer has taken me all afternoon to set up, but finally I am printing a test piece. Nozzle wouldn't feed although it was clearly hot enough. A good reaming with the enclosed needle has sorted that.

The build instructions are extremely unhelpful!

 

[ajlelectronics]

I now have a perfect little dog! Anything else I try doesn't stick, despite levelling carefully and IPA cleaning. Piggin' thing.

 

[MattF]

You getting the bed warm enough?

 

[ajlelectronics]

You getting the bed warm enough?

Nozzle 200 and bed at 60. Carefully levelled, but here is a query...

To do the levelling, I have to bring the head down manually from its home position. To level it at home is not possible because the gap is too great. It looks like the nozzle sets its height above the head when it starts printing though.

 

[JMS1972]

Should be levelled in the home position. You may need to adjust the Z home switch so that is possible...

 

[ChrisBailey]

Yeah i had that problem. Loosen up the Z axis microswitch and move it a little bit.
Mine was too low and meant i couldnt get enough clearance between the bed and the nozzle. Sounds like you might have done the same

 

[ajlelectronics]

 

[ajlelectronics]

That was re-levelled from home and the bed cleaned with IPA. Still not very attached and in fact it has just broken loose.

 

[MattF]

I think these printers are one of those things that could/will benefit from some slight tweaking & upgrades. Mine's pretty good, but I've noted odd things which can be improved upon. Good base to work from though.

 

[ChrisBailey]

Ive not had any come loose on mine yet and Ive printed a few bits.
When i leveled the bed, it was cold and i got the paper sheet so you could feel it drag.

I also have some 3dlac printer adhesive but Ive stopped using it as its hard to get the parts off afterwards.

 

[JMS1972]

That was re-levelled from home and the bed cleaned with IPA. Still not very attached and in fact it has just broken loose.

Looks like you have the right amount of squish at the front. Maybe not enough at the back.

Have you checked if your bed is flat? Mine wasn't so I packed it up with aluminium tape. But the best mod was a glass bed.

 

[ChrisBailey]

Its also worth doing the feeler guage thing with paper closer to the centre of the bed and in a few other places, not just the corners.