I've Gone and Done Something Mental

[Barking Mat]

Nope, no, and no, I'm watching you guys learn.

I'm not ordering anything.

Definitely not getting involved, too many other projects.

Maybe next year.

 

[Anguz]

Im getting tempted...

 

[Anguz]

Maybe when parm has had enough... his will be a bargain

 

[MattF]

I'm not ordering anything.

We're watching & waiting.

 

[Barking Mat]

We're watching & waiting.

I'm looking at metal roller curtain garage doors, mmm, sexy...

3 m wide by 2m high, electric, mmm....

FB marketplace 150 €, must resist temptation, but so tempting...

3d printers can wait...

 

[ajlelectronics]

3d printers can wait...

But how about all the clips and adapters that you are going to need? They need printing.

 

[PhillipM]

You could get a belt printer and make your own roller shutters....

 

[MattF]

I'm a modification whore. What else can I say.

 

[MattF]

Finally got that wiring resembling something respectable. It was doing my head in. One of those tasks where you need three hands though, fitting it & getting the cables to stay put during.

 

[AndersK]

One of those tasks where you need three hands

Sure you can print a gadget for that

 

[ajlelectronics]

After giving the glass bed a really good clean and trying again, the extrusion would not adhere. A coat of the 3DLAC and it is fine again. It can be a bit ferocious if left too long after cooling. I had to take the plate off and attack the parts with tools and blades before they would release.

 

[MattF]

What temp are you running the bed at?

 

[Dev]

After giving the glass bed a really good clean and trying again, the extrusion would not adhere. A coat of the 3DLAC and it is fine again. It can be a bit ferocious if left too long after cooling. I had to take the plate off and attack the parts with tools and blades before they would release.

How re you cleaning it?

I’ve had the most luck with a spritz of insette hairspray on glass. Helps things stick without being hard to remove.

 

[ajlelectronics]

How re you cleaning it?

I’ve had the most luck with a spritz of insette hairspray on glass. Helps things stick without being hard to remove.

99% IPA, or Brake cleaner.

 

[ajlelectronics]

What temp are you running the bed at?

60 with preheat to 65.

 

[tflnemesis]

After trying many ways to get prints to stick here is what I have found:

Masking tape, Very good for first timers as is thick enough to forgive low nozzle height. Models can stick very well causing damage to surface which tends to lead to whole bed retape. Can leave stripes in surfaces from where edges meet. Easily removed and renewed.

Hairspray, good for most plastics apart from Tpu. but the buildup over time can hurt your first layer. Not very easy to repair and surprisingly difficult to remove.

Abs Slurry (Abs filament dissolved in acetone), Very easy to apply and get an even thin film across your surface. Fairly easy to repair but can get messy and buildup is also a problem. Fumes are a problem in enclosed spaces. Biggest downfall is it tends to lift with the print so all your bases are covered in a thin film of Abs. Some prints can be cleaned with acetone but if the colour is different it will stain.

Watered down PVA, By far the best one I have found and what I currently use for all plastics. Very thin solution brushed on and gently dried by the heated bed can give a mirror smooth finish. Doesn't tend to detach with the print so repairs are less necessary. Can be cleaned off easily and new applied. Works very well.

This was using 3 different types of build surface, glass, aluminium plate and a steel flex sheet.

 

[Pete.]

I have the standard magnetic plate bed on my Ender 3 and I wipe it with a cloth then print. Never had any not stick.

 

[Dev]

99% IPA, or Brake cleaner.

Try hot soapy water and dry with paper towels. Easier if it’s a removable bed of course.
Then avoid handling to prevent oils from your hands making a barrier.

 

[MattF]

First time I've relevelled the bed today, since replacing the springs with those silicone blocks, & that was only due to me fitting some proper spacers, (inplace of the nuts I temporarily had there), between the adjuster wheels & frame. The boss on those alu' wheels is flush with the rim, so not very well thought out. Those silicone blocks seem far less tetchy than the springs. Now onto the gratuitous photo's. The spacers:



Also replaced this, (I had to use the Mole's, to get it to shift):



with this:



That's been turned from some 8mm brass rod. It's the Z limit adjuster. The original just looks a tad tacky & oversized, IMHO, & it's a good excuse to sate my brass fittings quirk.

 

[MattF]

Amazing how one change can make things go from fine to crap.

Switched filament over earlier, & it seems one brand is far more forgiving of that slight low spot in the bed centre than the other brand is.