I've Gone and Done Something Mental

[indy4x]

After giving the glass bed a really good clean and trying again, the extrusion would not adhere. A coat of the 3DLAC and it is fine again. It can be a bit ferocious if left too long after cooling. I had to take the plate off and attack the parts with tools and blades before they would release.

I find the opposite on the glass bed of my Ender 5, use 3DLac and can't remove the part until the bed has cooled down, then it just pops off

I only give the bed a light spray though

Cleaning: generally dont do this after every print and depends how I'm feeling but probably every 5 to 10 prints it gets a wash with hot soapy water and a foam/scourer for doing the dishes. But if there are any blobs on the bed between prints I do pick these off

 

[MattF]

Without resorting to sprays & adhesives, what steps should one run through to try & aid adhesion? This new filament is still being a pain with the glass bed on, (I know the surface is flat, now), so need to find this filaments sweet spot.

 

[AndersK]

Think I have said this before, change to PEI bed sheet and forget about adhesion.
Even Pet can be printed directly and yet easy to remove.
Nylon can still be a bit tricky and require extra adhesion though

 

[carbon]

Similar to @AndersK but I use a printbite+ surface without the need for any adhesives etc. Clean it with ipa or acetone. Use it, when it’s cool just lift the part off if it’s pla, abs or petg. Ninjaflex can stick a bit but I haven’t had to use any tools to get a print off

 

[JMS1972]

Amazing how one change can make things go from fine to crap.

Switched filament over earlier, & it seems one brand is far more forgiving of that slight low spot in the bed centre than the other brand is.

I used a few layers of aluminium tape to build up the centre of my bed applied to the metal.

 

[DAPPH]

Have you made a filament guide yet? It gets rid of the sharp bends. That having been said, a triangular reel support on the desk next to the printer would be even nicer, spooling wise.

Something like this I have in mind... Reel support stand

My filament guide for my Genuine Prusa 3i S is made from two 300 mm zip ties , one vertical , tightened & snipped close to the to the frame in the middle and the other in a horizontal ring under the first tie pulled & clipped off to about 6 inches across , so the filament is never much more than 3 inches from the middle of the main frame of the printer .

I've not had a tangle / snarl up since I did that three reels ago .

 

[DAPPH]

I'm looking at metal roller curtain garage doors, mmm, sexy...

3 m wide by 2m high, electric, mmm....

FB marketplace 150 €, must resist temptation, but so tempting...

3d printers can wait...

Make sure you have the auto shut off switching and a photo cell beam device & reflector plate wired to the control box that if the beam is broken near the floor ( 300 mm or so up ) , as the door descends it stops the roller dead instead of sending it crunching it into whatever is blocking it path to closure.
Daughter closed the roller whilst my long handled spade was going to stop the door closing , the original door didn't have auto shutoff power overloads set correctly by the installers . That ended up breaking all four shutter mounting hinges on the top roller bar. Then a few weeks after my wife closed it on top of a bucket of scrap metal which again damaged the attachment hinges .

I managed to repair /reset & install the original hinges to get the door opening and closing then fitted the photocell N/O , N/C/ cut out device so anything over 75 mm to 300 mm in the path of the shutter coming fully down will trip the roller control into stop .

 

[DAPPH]

I find the opposite on the glass bed of my Ender 5, use 3DLac and can't remove the part until the bed has cooled down, then it just pops off

I only give the bed a light spray though

Cleaning: generally dont do this after every print and depends how I'm feeling but probably every 5 to 10 prints it gets a wash with hot soapy water and a foam/scourer for doing the dishes. But if there are any blobs on the bed between prints I do pick these off

I've got one of the light weight razor blade holders with a blade in it from Wilkinson's for about £ 2. 50 for two to ease off any blobs or skins / remnants of filament from a print a job , had to wipe the corners on some fine wet & dry several times to take of the really sharp edged corners to stop it digging into the plastic coating on the metal print plate , as there is often some of the thin first layer skirts left on the plate after the printed part is taken off .

 

[MattF]

I used a few layers of aluminium tape to build up the centre of my bed applied to the metal.

Did you refit the magnetic sheet, or leave that off, afterwards?

 

[MattF]

Just for the sake of curiosity, why is there so much variation between brands?

 

[JMS1972]

Did you refit the magnetic sheet, or leave that off, afterwards?

I replaced the build sheet afterwards but later on changed to glass.

 

[PhillipM]

Of filament? Different chemical makeup, huge amount of varience in the actual tolerances - a lot of the firms that claim +-0.05mm come nowhere close, including some of the UK firms listed earlier, the QC on cheap filaments is basically non-existant. Some firms use fillers to bulk out the resin which reduces the flow and adhesion, etc.

 

[ChrisBailey]

Something Ive learned.
Have blutac and tape on hand when printing with supports.
This is a 25 hour print and Ive managed to repair the support with masking tape.

 

[MattF]

I've pussied out of fighting with the Geeetech filament for the time being, & just ordered some more Sunlu, which I know sticks. I'll be gutted if I have adhesion problems with that now too.

 

[DAPPH]

I've pussied out of fighting with the Geeetech filament for the time being, & just ordered some more Sunlu, which I know sticks. I'll be gutted if I have adhesion problems with that now too.

Might be teaching my granny to suck eggs ...
I gather that different filaments can need slight changes to the conditions of plastic flow so it prints well/ better . What works well for one brand just does not appear to want to play when you use a different brand .

Sometimes a few degree higher in the melter can solve things , as can dialing in the print nozzle height to get the best smear of the melted plastic so it no longer looks ribby/ boney like a Korky Kat fish frame
Have you cleaned the print plate , then used a simple pre made slurry solution of the filament being used to coat the print bed plate or used a Pritt stick on the warm ( not fully hot ) plate to get the all important first layer adhesion?

 

[MattF]

I've messed around with settings to quite a large degree. Also tried it with both the standard & a glass bed. Speed, nozzle heat, bed heat, nozzle clearance etc., have all been faffed with. Not covered/coated the bed with owt though. I'm leaving this battle for another day.

 

[pawsnizzy]

Most of my adhesion woes disappeared when I started using these:

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[PhillipM]

Check the diameter of the filament in a few places, make sure it's in spec and consistant.

 

[500e]

Here you go @Parm

 

[ronan]

Here you go @Parm

Seen that earlier, amazing, i want one, possibly two.