Just bought a Fortis lathe

[God mode restorations]

My empire lathe I restored has numerous oilers on the front apron but originally they kind of put oil everywhere except where needed. It took ages to get the copper oil pipes in the right position and get a good flow.

 

[GraemeVW]

My empire lathe I restored has numerous oilers on the front apron but originally they kind of put oil everywhere except where needed. It took ages to get the copper oil pipes in the right position and get a good flow.

View attachment 405471 View attachment 405472 View attachment 405473

I might modify this at some point, use the pipes idea, get one central oil point to distribute the oil.

I'll come back to this in future I think.

 

[GraemeVW]

I found where all the play was hiding!
The last place I had to look.
I know the compound slide has very little play, last thing to check was the cross slide.
Yep, there it is.
Set the nut on the worst bit if thread and there is exactly 0.5mm of play. (According to aldi's finest digital calipers)

Looks like I've found this lathes first project when it's set up in its final resting place.

 

[GraemeVW]

Had a look at the cross slide feed screw/nut today.
1/2", 10tpi, LH acme.

I could buy a tap, and a lump of bronze, maybe even delrin. I could also see about grinding a tool and cutting one in the lathe, but I'd have to use the fortis, and it will be a while before it's set up for use.

I could buy a bronze tailstock nut for a Southbend from eBay for £20, bore mine out, solder the tubular SB nut in. Don't like the thought of destroying mine, getting it wrong, and having nothing though.
Could buy some brass and make a housing for the SB nut. I have some aluminium, could use that, but can't solder. Could make it press fit and put a locking grub screw in it though.

Lastly, I could order a brass cross feed nut for an atlas from China for £20. This looks like it may even fit, just needing the top post removing and mounting bolt holes adding.

 

[GraemeVW]

 

[GraemeVW]

I put the compound slide back together. I haven't seen the original, but this colchester one has no wear so I'm happy to have it.

The mounting bolt off was obviously different though so the modifier turned the holes to slots. Means I have no marker for angle, but even if it was still there, it would be quite far away. I think ill cut some pieces of something and bolt them to the side so I can add a 0 marker.

I was never sure about tool height woth this compound slide though, this is my first opportunity to check.
It's not very accurate, just getting an idea.
The end of the spindle is a little under 31mm and the bottom of the tool post opening looks to be about 3mm above.

That should put tool tip at a bit over 12mm, which is perfect as I have a some 12mm tooling!
It may need shinning, I may even need to get the tool post ground if it needs dropping, but it's in the right ball park to be workable.

This doesn't solve the parts missing from the tool post, but that only effects the auto indexing set up. I can still use it.

I could replace it with a QCTP, but I'm in no rush to spend a load more money, if rather spend it on a dro at the moment.

One other thing I keep forgetting to check is what the spindle taper is. It's quite large so I wonder if it had an adapter rather than being a morse size. I'll measure it and try and work it out. Tailstock is mt2, id guess I'd be best off getting mt2 to work in the spindle too. I've never had need to use the spindle taper on my old lathe though, I guess only thing is really ever need it for would be a dead center. I have no catch plate though so I could always put some bar in the 3 jaw, turn a point, then set the dog against a jaw. I don't know, never had to turn between centers before.

If anyone has any stock of all the stupid little bits in a colchester tool post, let me know!

 

[God mode restorations]

I put the compound slide back together. I haven't seen the original, but this colchester one has no wear so I'm happy to have it.

The mounting bolt off was obviously different though so the modifier turned the holes to slots. Means I have no marker for angle, but even if it was still there, it would be quite far away. I think ill cut some pieces of something and bolt them to the side so I can add a 0 marker.
View attachment 405658

I was never sure about tool height woth this compound slide though, this is my first opportunity to check.
It's not very accurate, just getting an idea.
The end of the spindle is a little under 31mm and the bottom of the tool post opening looks to be about 3mm above.

That should put tool tip at a bit over 12mm, which is perfect as I have a some 12mm tooling!
It may need shinning, I may even need to get the tool post ground if it needs dropping, but it's in the right ball park to be workable.

View attachment 405659

This doesn't solve the parts missing from the tool post, but that only effects the auto indexing set up. I can still use it.

I could replace it with a QCTP, but I'm in no rush to spend a load more money, if rather spend it on a dro at the moment.

One other thing I keep forgetting to check is what the spindle taper is. It's quite large so I wonder if it had an adapter rather than being a morse size. I'll measure it and try and work it out. Tailstock is mt2, id guess I'd be best off getting mt2 to work in the spindle too. I've never had need to use the spindle taper on my old lathe though, I guess only thing is really ever need it for would be a dead center. I have no catch plate though so I could always put some bar in the 3 jaw, turn a point, then set the dog against a jaw. I don't know, never had to turn between centers before.

If anyone has any stock of all the stupid little bits in a colchester tool post, let me know!

I have some of the parts but I think I posted it before

 

[God mode restorations]

This

 

[GraemeVW]

This

View attachment 405664

Ah yes, I remember.

From that pic I'm missing the dome cap and screw to retain the handle, and the thrust bearing that sits under the cap. The tool clamping bolts would be handy too as I have ropey old standard bolts.

I don't know for sure that the parts will interchange though as my tool post is a bit smaller, but id be surprised if anything other than the actual block and maybe the handle are different.

I don't know what kind of bearing that is (thrust with balls?) so I don't know if it's condition would make it useless? Although cleaned up it would probably be ok, and better than none.

The only other part im missing is the part that goes on the bottom of the center bolt to pull down the locating plunger but I guess the whole center spindle is still on the compound slide.

The cup piece has the same spines in the center though so might be able to make one from that.

I assume the indent ball/spring/grub screw is missing from the side at the top of the block? The various springs and balls are easy to find though.

This seems to be a really long way of me saying it would probably all be of use accept for the main block and the handle!

I'll pm you later

 

[GraemeVW]

Whoever fitted the compound did at least scribe where 0 is. Hopefully accurately.

 

[GraemeVW]

With the lathe itself almost finished I need to start looking at a few other bits.
The 1hp motor o bought is in good condition but wants a lock of paint.

I need to make a new motor pulley as I want to be able to use both layshaft pulleys (2400rpm!!)

I want to make a splash guard. Not really for splashes as I won't use flood coolant, but it will be up against a wall with a gap behind it that will just fill up with swarf, offcuts, and tools.

I also need to rebuild the nice old machine lamp I have for it.

I guess at some point I should also rebuild the chucks.
I have a belco 4 jaw which is quite nice, a Pratt 3 jaw with inside jaws and a Pratt scroll 4 jaw with inside jaws. They are all 6" which I guess is a reasonable size.

I also have a small 4" with inside, outside, and soft jaws. I will get this fitting too as I do quite often turn small stuff.

I'd love some outside jaws for the 2 scroll chucks but I guess that's unlikely to happen. Will jaws that didn't come with the chuck even fit properly?

I'd also like a larger 3 jaw, maybe a larger 4 jaw, and a faceplate.
May be a pair of 10" chucks and a 12" faceplate.
I'll keep my eyes open for bargains and buy them when I see them cheap, or when I really need them, rather than throwing a load of money at it just to have them now.

I'm going to need to make some back plates as it's an oddball size at 1.75 7tpi and like everything on the lathe, whitworth thread form.

 

[Pete.]

A 10" chuck is far too big for your lathe. Something like a 6 or 7 would be more appropriate.

 

[GraemeVW]

A 10" chuck is far too big for your lathe. Something like a 6 or 7 would be more appropriate.

I did wonder.

Because of the weight?

I'm sure I read somewhere 2/3rds the throw, but I may be wrong, and that doesn't take the actual lathe into consideration.

8" be ok?

 

[GraemeVW]

6" belco 4 jaw all clean and working smoothly.
One of the threads in the backplate had been drilled out. I suspect the pcd wasnt exact as it looks like the end of the bokt was damaged trying to do it up. I think they gave up and drilled the hole to clearance size.

I just spent 5 mins looking for a 3/8 bsw helicoil kit before I realised I can just rotate it 90° and drill/tap all 4 again.

 

[GraemeVW]

Pratt 3 jaw back in service!
Would be nice to get some external jaws for this. Probably won't find any though so maybe I'll look out for one with both sets of jaws and sell this one.

 

[Pete.]

What diameter is it?

 

[God mode restorations]

Pratt 3 jaw back in service!
Would be nice to get some external jaws for this. Probably won't find any though so maybe I'll look out for one with both sets of jaws and sell this one.
View attachment 405957

Ask on here. People have spares .I got heaps of somewhere

 

[GraemeVW]

And the 6" 4 jaw self centering.
I don't think this had ever been used. It was full of dry grease. It literally flaked out. Nothing left inside except crumbly grease. Cleaned it out and it looks unworn inside.

I'm really glad to have this come with the lathe as I'll no doubt find the odd use for it, once every few years, but would never buy one. So getting it as a freebie is great.

No back plate on this but I have a 1.5" 8tpi one I'll bore out and rethread once the lathe is up and running.

Plan is to make some ply shelves to go in the cabinet to store the heavy stuff like chucks and steadies. Maybe I'll make a door mounted rack to hold the tailstock stuff too. A pull out tray under the chucks for cutting tools and maybe a little tool tray in the motor cabinet.

Speaking of which, the 1hp brook motor has had a quick and dirty lash over with some silver paint as it was in a right state!

I'll make a pulley and then get it bolted in.

Schneider contactor turned up and a quick test wiring shows I can use the old BMLtd buttons.
I'll sort out the reversing switch later.
Not sure I even need a reversing switch, but it had one originally, so it will have one again.

I have this little 4" bison chuco too which I'll probably sort a back plate for. It's a bit small, but has 3 sets of jaws, is unused, and I quite often turn tiny stuff. This may help

I'll probably keep my old drummond for that reason too, or maybe buy a nice tiny lathe, just for when I have to make small parts.

 

[GraemeVW]

What diameter is it?

It's 6" diameter. I don't know if they ever changed jaw dimensions though. I did read when the company changed it's name and if I remember right, if it's just marked Pratt, it's pre mid 1950s maybe?
If they changed anything when they merged? With burnerd, then it may be a struggle.
I know little about these things though.

 

[GraemeVW]

Ask on here. People have spares .I got heaps of somewhere

I will. It's not top of my priority list, and I've been asking alot of questions recently! But I'll take some measurements of the jaws, probably put them in this thread for now, and come back to that situation when it's all up and running.