GraemeVW
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Yes, it's doable. Make the missing piece, braze it all back in.
However, I think I've found a spare gearbox!
Sent the pic to the same legend who sold me the clutch and he has a spare gearbox too!!
- Thread starter GraemeVW
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Yes, it's doable. Make the missing piece, braze it all back in.
However, I think I've found a spare gearbox!
Sent the pic to the same legend who sold me the clutch and he has a spare gearbox too!!
God mode restorations
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That will be great if it's the one. Happy days
GraemeVW
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Luckily he kept alot of parts from his old worn out one.
I won't chuck this one though, when everything done I'll still try and fix it. Just nice for fixing it not to be the only option.
GraemeVW
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Cleaned the gearbox parts while I wait for the new casing.
Was a bit of a puzzle working out how to get it all apart! Hope I can remember how it goes back together.
Also stripped the apron and started cleaning all those parts too, sat in degreaser while I have dinner
Also turns out the tailstock should have wipers so I've ordered some 1/8 bsw screws and some felt
Carriage handwheel was loose on its shaft. Has 3 attempts at pinning it. All were loose. There is some wear too so its wobbly.
Not 100% sure what to do. Could bore it out and sleeve it I guess, but it's not THAT bad. Maybe I'll use bearing fit and do one more, decent, pin.
Was a bit of a puzzle working out how to get it all apart! Hope I can remember how it goes back together.
Also stripped the apron and started cleaning all those parts too, sat in degreaser while I have dinner
Also turns out the tailstock should have wipers so I've ordered some 1/8 bsw screws and some felt
Carriage handwheel was loose on its shaft. Has 3 attempts at pinning it. All were loose. There is some wear too so its wobbly.
Not 100% sure what to do. Could bore it out and sleeve it I guess, but it's not THAT bad. Maybe I'll use bearing fit and do one more, decent, pin.
GraemeVW
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Yes, there are other 1/8 bsw threads on the lathe. I had to buy a whitworth tap and die set to deal with a few of the others.
I haven't checked any of the other fasteners, but i guess it's all whitworth although as you say, small sizes are normally ba.
GraemeVW
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Now the handle spindle is clean, I spent some time looking at the carriage handwheel situ.
Looks like a new spindle has been made. It's a little loose in the bore. There is also no real in/out location. It's a bit of a lash up thats poorly made and now also worn can't bring myself to just use bearing fit and go due it back together, I'll make a new spindle, ream the apron if needed, bore out the handle and make a new boss.
Looks like a new spindle has been made. It's a little loose in the bore. There is also no real in/out location. It's a bit of a lash up thats poorly made and now also worn can't bring myself to just use bearing fit and go due it back together, I'll make a new spindle, ream the apron if needed, bore out the handle and make a new boss.
GraemeVW
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New spindle vs old spindle.
New spindle is stainless as it's what I had lying around.
The old spindle there was an 8mm spacer behind the handle, some badly fitting pins stopping the handle rotating on the spindle, and a washer and nut on the end. It was VERY wobbly and had no real in/out location.
I'll bore the handle out and make a boss that also replaces the spacer at the rear. I'll put a pin in the joint to stop the handle rotating on the Bush and then I'll cross pin the Bush to the spindle.
First time I've every really tried to make something to a proper accurate dimension. Well, I went to 12.78 as the hole was 12.78 ish, and then turned a couple of hundreths off at a time untill it fit nicely. Ended up at 12.72, about 0.2mm bigger than the old spindle!
Managed to get it bang on over it's length too. Well, pretty much. The calipers were fluctuating between 12.72 and 12.73 at the far end. For some reason I can't find my micrometer to measure it properly.
I could probably have got this better if I'd been able to use the main carriage to traverse the tool but it's a small lathe so I had to rely on setting the compound parralel to the ways and using that to move the tool by hand instead.
Its only over 75mm so not held that accuracy over a huge length, but not bad i dont think considering im a total amateur and my lathe is 121 years old!
Made the discovery that my Chinese mt1 live center is rubbish! Couldn't get accuracy to within 0.1, let alone 0.01! So swapped to a dead center. I guess i should have been using that anyway.
Need to find 2" or 1" steel bar For the Bush now, there will be something in the workshop I can cut up I'm sure.
New spindle is stainless as it's what I had lying around.
The old spindle there was an 8mm spacer behind the handle, some badly fitting pins stopping the handle rotating on the spindle, and a washer and nut on the end. It was VERY wobbly and had no real in/out location.
I'll bore the handle out and make a boss that also replaces the spacer at the rear. I'll put a pin in the joint to stop the handle rotating on the Bush and then I'll cross pin the Bush to the spindle.
First time I've every really tried to make something to a proper accurate dimension. Well, I went to 12.78 as the hole was 12.78 ish, and then turned a couple of hundreths off at a time untill it fit nicely. Ended up at 12.72, about 0.2mm bigger than the old spindle!
Managed to get it bang on over it's length too. Well, pretty much. The calipers were fluctuating between 12.72 and 12.73 at the far end. For some reason I can't find my micrometer to measure it properly.
I could probably have got this better if I'd been able to use the main carriage to traverse the tool but it's a small lathe so I had to rely on setting the compound parralel to the ways and using that to move the tool by hand instead.
Its only over 75mm so not held that accuracy over a huge length, but not bad i dont think considering im a total amateur and my lathe is 121 years old!
Made the discovery that my Chinese mt1 live center is rubbish! Couldn't get accuracy to within 0.1, let alone 0.01! So swapped to a dead center. I guess i should have been using that anyway.
Need to find 2" or 1" steel bar For the Bush now, there will be something in the workshop I can cut up I'm sure.
GraemeVW
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Boss made, handle bored out, all fits together brilliantly. Boss needed pressing in to the wheel and it's a snug fit on the shaft, needing a little tap to slide on.
I will assemble it into the apron so I can set the length exactly before I mark for cross drilling.
Just need a new handle for the wheel now as it was just a bolt before.
I will assemble it into the apron so I can set the length exactly before I mark for cross drilling.
Just need a new handle for the wheel now as it was just a bolt before.
GraemeVW
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I have some spare 1/8 bsw screws so I threaded the hole I drilled between the boss and the handwheel. Easier to get apart If it ever needs it.
Rather than cross pin it to the spindle, I drilled clearance though it all except one side of the boss. I'll tap that 1/8bsw too and put a screw through it.
Again, easier to get apart than knocking roll pins in/out with a punch.
Rather than cross pin it to the spindle, I drilled clearance though it all except one side of the boss. I'll tap that 1/8bsw too and put a screw through it.
Again, easier to get apart than knocking roll pins in/out with a punch.
GraemeVW
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I had another handle the same as the one for the tailstock handwheel, but it had a messed up threaded mount rather than press fit. I cut it off drilled and tapped it m5 made a m5 to m8 male to male adapter. Then helicoiled the 8mm plain hole to m8 and threadlocked it all together.
Just needed a handle for the cross slide then, so just turned one up from a bit of stainless. Bit of a pain trying to cut nice smooth curves just using 2 handwheels, but came out ok.
Another job ticked off.
Just needed a handle for the cross slide then, so just turned one up from a bit of stainless. Bit of a pain trying to cut nice smooth curves just using 2 handwheels, but came out ok.
Another job ticked off.
GraemeVW
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Rebuilt the clutch layshaft. Really didn't want to come apart. Had to cut the iron pulley off. Then I had to straighten the shaft and the threaded end was ruined. Cut the end off and tapped it m7, made a m7 to m10 male to male and threadlocked it in.
I feel a little bad as that's twice now I've used metric threads. If I had stocks of imperial fasteners I wouldn't have.
On a side note, i recently bought a triangle brand bsw tap and die set, and a presto metric set. After years if using cheap Chinese ones these are a revelation! They actually cut threads, nice threads. They don't cut and strip them in one action and you don't have to struggle for ages getting the die started. Lesson learnt!!
Also, this arrived!
Came from the same guy who sold me the clutch, but this was free! What a legend.
Not many of these around so spares are scarce. Chances of the only guy who has spares also happens to have the bits I need? Our lathes had different broken parts thankfully.
This gearbox casing is a huge relief
I feel a little bad as that's twice now I've used metric threads. If I had stocks of imperial fasteners I wouldn't have.
On a side note, i recently bought a triangle brand bsw tap and die set, and a presto metric set. After years if using cheap Chinese ones these are a revelation! They actually cut threads, nice threads. They don't cut and strip them in one action and you don't have to struggle for ages getting the die started. Lesson learnt!!
Also, this arrived!
Came from the same guy who sold me the clutch, but this was free! What a legend.
Not many of these around so spares are scarce. Chances of the only guy who has spares also happens to have the bits I need? Our lathes had different broken parts thankfully.
This gearbox casing is a huge relief
