- Thread starter GraemeVW
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mr_luke_too
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That sliding gear is vulnerable to being run in 'neutral' and then chewing up the edges of the teeth if it moves in either direction. Certainly, that seems to have happened to mine at some point in its life. The gears mesh fine if fully engaged but have been seriously chewed up along their outer edges.
BTW, I noticed a comment in your original post about MT2 centres. Have you clocked that the spindle is MT3?
BTW, I noticed a comment in your original post about MT2 centres. Have you clocked that the spindle is MT3?
GraemeVW
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The spindle is way larger than mt3.
The tailstock is mt2. I suspect the spindle is mt4 maybe mt4.5
Edit, mine may have a different spindle to yours. Seems they did 2. Mine is 1.75" 7tpi thread and maybe 1 1/8" bore, maybe even a little bigger.
Yours is 1.5" 8tpi right?
I ha e been speaking to David on from Facebook, he had 2 of these lathes, one with each spindle size I believe.
Is the V on the bed on yours removable? I think they normally are, but mine is part of the casting.
GraemeVW
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Took the tool post apart.
It's deffinately this type and it's missing all the bits with red dots.
I can't read the part numbers though, but I'm sure I could find a readable image.
I also assume however that parts are either not available, or expensive.
I guess my best bet would be to either use it as it is, get a replacement, or change it for something else.
The locating pin is still spring and not stuck, just quite stiff, so if I tighten it at an angle other than 90° it will still clamp down.
Only thing I really don't like about how it is right now is how thin an edge actually transmits the clamping load from the handle. Is it always like that, or for the part that looks like a heavy spring, or a thrust bearing, normally provide the clamping surface?
It's deffinately this type and it's missing all the bits with red dots.
I can't read the part numbers though, but I'm sure I could find a readable image.
I also assume however that parts are either not available, or expensive.
I guess my best bet would be to either use it as it is, get a replacement, or change it for something else.
The locating pin is still spring and not stuck, just quite stiff, so if I tighten it at an angle other than 90° it will still clamp down.
Only thing I really don't like about how it is right now is how thin an edge actually transmits the clamping load from the handle. Is it always like that, or for the part that looks like a heavy spring, or a thrust bearing, normally provide the clamping surface?
mr_luke_too
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Yep, my spindle thread is 1.5" 8tpi. Taper is MT3 and the bore is 3/4".
I was just about to tell you my 'V' was part of the casting, too, but then I noticed that if I look up at the underside, I can see a row of cap head screws just in front of the rack. Once you look really closely it's possible to see that it is indeed separate from the bed and has a join in the centre as mentioned on lathes.co.uk - I had never noticed before!
I've done my best to get a decent photo of the name plate but, as you can see, mine's pretty beaten up so it isn't at all clear.
GraemeVW
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Thanks, the plate is still helpful.
If I make some, and I'm pretty sure I will, I'll make 5. That should provide new ones for every fortisathe owner we know of!
Going to do the feeds chart too.
Seems I have the only one with a cast in V way!
Jelly_Sheffield
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Do you have access to a laser cutter?
If so:
• paint the whole blank,
• laser etch the paint over the areas to be etched away,
• then either acid etch with HCl / Ferric Chloride or electro-etch with a sponge soaked in brine solution and a high amperage 12V or 24V supply.
Super quick and pretty reliable for etching very high levels of detail, down to depths up to around 1 to 1.5mm.
GraemeVW
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I don't.
My plan was to do a toner transfer, probably from acetate.
Not sure how crisp it will turn out though, not tried this before.
The electro etch sounds interesting, I'll have a read on that
GraemeVW
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The power of the internet!
A lathe made 70 years ago, in limited numbers, with probably very few surviving and within a couple if days of buying it I get a clutch/brake set up.
Thanks to mr_luke_too, and thanks to David if you ever see this thread.
A lathe made 70 years ago, in limited numbers, with probably very few surviving and within a couple if days of buying it I get a clutch/brake set up.
Thanks to mr_luke_too, and thanks to David if you ever see this thread.
Jelly_Sheffield
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The electro etch is much faster and gives you visibility as you're doing it...
But because you're manually moving the sponge over different areas, it's harder to maintain completely consistent depth of etching on a large part, definitely worth doing some test pieces to get your hand in, it also produces some wicked fumes so best done in a well ventilated area or with a suitable (Type ABE or ABEK filter) mask on.
If you don't have any luck with the toner transfer I'd be happy to sort you out with access to a laser cutter locally to try that approach.
GraemeVW
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Thank you.
I have also e.mailed a company that makes them to get a price as back up, in case this all goes wrong.
I have the files now though, so that's the main thing.
I'm pretty sure I have some brass too.
I'll make up a small file with just a few of the same size letters etc and do a load of small test plates, see what works. If toner transfer doesn't work well maybe we can try laser etching the resist.
I've sort of done this kind of thing before, making pcbs, but with that, crispness of line and depth of etch aren't really issues. For pcb's I'm pretty sure I just used letraset rub on transfers and sharpies.
Sorry, no...apparently my big fingers and small phone screen strike again!
GraemeVW
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snotters64
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That's very cool you managed to source the clutch .
God mode restorations
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I think I have a complete toolpost the same as that. Actually identical
