Land Rover Defender 110 Rebuild

[Robotstar5]

You have the easy option of a complete unit or just replace the balljoint if you have access to a BIG press, I've used the Lemforder ones in the past as they are OE suppliers to Land Rover.

Top tip: use allthread or bolts with the heads removed screwed into the tapped holes to guide the balljoint in so the holes line up for the fixing bolts, I've seen a couple that "missed" that had been drilled and bolted, but the extra holes weaken the housing.

 

[awemawson]

Kim read this thread regarding stainless bolts galling AND JAMMING:

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/stainless-steel-locking-up.52853/#post-613977

 

[Bill Edwards]

I was just going to buy brake pipe and make them myself. I can't rememebr the name of the pipe but it's not copper. I've already got new braided hoses.

Kunifer I should think?

Making your own is by far the cheapest approach and in my view, the best. The tools to do it are so cheap and you'll typically use them again on other motors.

 

[KimB]

You have the easy option of a complete unit or just replace the balljoint if you have access to a BIG press, I've used the Lemforder ones in the past as they are OE suppliers to Land Rover.

Top tip: use allthread or bolts with the heads removed screwed into the tapped holes to guide the balljoint in so the holes line up for the fixing bolts, I've seen a couple that "missed" that had been drilled and bolted, but the extra holes weaken the housing.

Good idea. I may just buy the whole unit though. I'll see how I get on. As you'll see after this post, not well lol

Kim read this thread regarding stainless bolts galling AND JAMMING:

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/stainless-steel-locking-up.52853/#post-613977

I'll have a look in a min thanks for posting

Kunifer I should think?

Making your own is by far the cheapest approach and in my view, the best. The tools to do it are so cheap and you'll typically use them again on other motors.

That's it and I thought the exact same thing. My bf and I both have defenders and I'm sure we'd need it again.

 

[KimB]

Today I spent a little while doing some more jobs , so close to being completly stripped!!! Then the refurb and rebuild can really start

How it started this morning

I unbolted everything yesterday so lifting the axle out was pretty simple. (It was the only simple job however)

Forgot to get photos but while it was lited high I cut and removed all the brackets off the chassis. All ready for blasting and painting when back. Then removed rear axle. As you can see one spring stayed with the axle, the other was stuck to the chassis so I tried to kick it thinking it would fall out, all it did was spring back and hit me in the foot I felt a bit special more so now it hurts to walk lol, I'm a disaster area! It's official

I removed the bars that connect to the chassis. Then inscrewed the two bolts on the a frame as you can see. The bolts are so badly siezed though.

Then moved onto the front. got the steering bar to the pump off. Then another bar which I'm not sure if the name but I know where it goes

That's all I did today, spent the rest of the afternoon tidying up as it rained all ready to begin painting in the garage now
If it doesn't rain tomorrow I'll strip the rest of the axles, get the callipers and brackets off, take them to the shot blasters Monday, May start wire wheeling the axles but I'll see how I go so close to being ready for rebuild! Can't wait!!

 

[barracuda816]

When you rebuild the swivels look to see if you can find military type leather gaiters, they help protect the chrome and make them last alot longer.

 

[KimB]

When you rebuild the swivels look to see if you can find military type leather gaiters, they help protect the chrome and make them last alot longer.

I've been thinking abot those, I saw them on a post once. I'll have to see if I can find them

 

[SmartWerks]

Someone's been a busy girl

i see your sending the chassis for blasing, but your going to paint it? A large powder coating place could do the blasting then coat it for you. Be far more durable finish than paint. You may also want to consider a zinc primer, followed by the colour of your choice then a clear coat. Them large shops can do that sort of work for a good price, doubt it would be more than £300?

 

[KimB]

Someone's been a busy girl

i see your sending the chassis for blasing, but your going to paint it? A large powder coating place could do the blasting then coat it for you. Be far more durable finish than paint. You may also want to consider a zinc primer, followed by the colour of your choice then a clear coat. Them large shops can do that sort of work for a good price, doubt it would be more than £300?

Chassis is being scraped, I've got a brand new galvanized one

 

[SmartWerks]

Chassis is being scraped, I've got a brand new galvanized one

No worries there then, if only they galvanised them in the first place!

What finish are you planning on using?

 

[barracuda816]

Someone's been a busy girl

i see your sending the chassis for blasing, but your going to paint it? A large powder coating place could do the blasting then coat it for you. Be far more durable finish than paint. You may also want to consider a zinc primer, followed by the color of your choice then a clear coat. Them large shops can do that sort of work for a good price, doubt it would be more than £300?

I think kim is going with a galv chassis & I disagree, Powder coating is not more durable that what Kim is painting it with. Kim is going with a 2 pack epoxy primer and a 2 pack hard topcoat. This combo will be both harder and will have a superior bond to the substrate. one big problem with powder coating is when you chip it (which it will eventually) it is easy for water to get between the coating and metal.

 

[barracuda816]

Oops sorry, im too slow at typing

 

[Robotstar5]

Then moved onto the front. got the steering bar to the pump off. Then another bar which I'm not sure if the name but I know where it goes

Panhard rod?

 

[The Devils Reject]

I've been thinking abot those, I saw them on a post once. I'll have to see if I can find them

These bad boys?

 

[awemawson]

I'm always rather wary of powder coating. Many items I've seen powder coated look superb until you handle them, and you find water has got under it through a pin hole, and the whole thing has rust on the metal that is going on un-noticed. The whole coating becomes loose

 

[The Devils Reject]

I'm always rather wary of powder coating. Many items I've seen powder coated look superb until you handle them, and you find water has got under it through a pin hole, and the whole thing has rust on the metal that is going on un-noticed. The whole coating becomes loose

Seen that many a time on powder coated bullbars. The look fine until you have a little knock and the whole damn thing bends like it's on hinges.

 

[Robotstar5]

I've been having stuff powder coated since the 80's, bike frames, car wheels etc, and have never had any problems, probably helps if it's done by a decent company though.

 

[barracuda816]

Powder coating has its place, but imho a good quality 2k epoxy with decent topcoat over a shot blasted prep is far superior protection then the powder coating.

 

[SmartWerks]

Paint is NOT more durable than powder coating. Sounds like some people have had some bad experiences due to poor quality work. If coating chips easy it is under cured, if there is bubbling in the coating it wasn't outgased before coating. If a part is prepped right then it a far superior coating, some shops just use a phosphate pre treatment which doesn't give the same level of adhesion as a blasted part.

 

[KimB]

No worries there then, if only they galvanised them in the first place!

What finish are you planning on using?

Answered just bellow you
I'm then going to be nato green as the main colour so it will be nato green and black. But I plan on breaking it up a bit with black components so it doesn't look like an army defender. Far to cool hehe

I think kim is going with a galv chassis & I disagree, Powder coating is not more durable that what Kim is painting it with. Kim is going with a 2 pack epoxy primer and a 2 pack hard topcoat. This combo will be both harder and will have a superior bond to the substrate. one big problem with powder coating is when you chip it (which it will eventually) it is easy for water to get between the coating and metal.

Thanks for the quick reply

Panhard rod?

That's it, someone told me earlier but there are far to many things for me to remember :O

I'm always rather wary of powder coating. Many items I've seen powder coated look superb until you handle them, and you find water has got under it through a pin hole, and the whole thing has rust on the metal that is going on un-noticed. The whole coating becomes loose

Me too. Always seems to chip after a very short time, luckily I'll have tonnes of paint left so I can paint anything I need to with it from now on