Land Rover Defender 110 Rebuild

[awemawson]

These bad boys?

I fitted those gaiters to my 1968 109" 6 pot petrol Safari back in (guessing) 1980 ish - I seem to remember that you have to massage Vaseline into them to make the leather supple. Still only got 9.8 mpg towing a trailer though

 

[KimB]

I'm guessing everyone recommends using paddocks ? Ive got to make a huge order hopefully during the week. If they are what everyone recomends I'll use them

 

[The Devils Reject]

I seem to remember that you have to massage Vaseline into them to make the leather supple.

That you do. I got some funny looks in the supermarket when I was buying 2 bottles of red wine, a big bar a chocolate and a huge tub of vaseline (specifically for getting my gaiters supple)

 

[Robotstar5]

I fitted those gaiters to my 1968 109" 6 pot petrol Safari back in (guessing) 1980 ish - I seem to remember that you have to massage Vaseline into them to make the leather supple. Still only got 9.8 mpg towing a trailer though

I just soaked them in clean engine oil when I replaced mine on the Lightweight.

 

[KimB]

Good idea, saves any funny looks at tesco buying a tom of Vaseline

I just soaked them in clean engine oil when I replaced mine on the Lightweight.

 

[mr migwire]

paddocks always gets my vote, there is also http://www.mod-sales.com/ you get some cheap bits and bobs from these guys.

 

[barracuda816]

There is a reason, other then curing difficulties for large parts, why the offshore and marine world don't use powder coating for items in corrosive environments. Another downside to powder coating is its harder to get i good finish on a repaired area.

 

[awemawson]

Well we buy KY jelly by the litre bottle (for Lambing - honestly !!!!) so perhaps that would do to lubricate the gaiters

 

[Robotstar5]

I'm guessing everyone recommends using paddocks ? Ive got to make a huge order hopefully during the week. If they are what everyone recomends I'll use them

You have to be careful what you order, they can supply the cheapest unbranded parts, but I tend to pay a bit more for OE spec parts, especially things like TRE (track rod ends) wouldn't want one of those to fail on the road.

Edit: I've been using LR direct for the past few years, but you have to know the part numbers so a bit of research required.

 

[The Devils Reject]

I'm guessing everyone recommends using paddocks ? Ive got to make a huge order hopefully during the week. If they are what everyone recomends I'll use them

The only thing to watch for with Paddocks is they do stock a lot of Britpart stuff which does have a poor reputation. Having said that, I've never had any major issues with Paddocks themselves. 2 deliveries (out of god knows how many) that had the wrong stuff in them but it was sorted and changed quickly.

I do use www.lrseries.com a lot as you get the choice when you are ordering of which brand of spares you get. They are a bit more expensive than Paddocks overall but again, there service is great.

 

[SmartWerks]

There is a reason, other then curing difficulties for large parts, why the offshore and marine world don't use powder coating for items in corrosive environments. Another downside to powder coating is its harder to get i good finish on a repaired area.

Could you imagine heating them parts upto 180 degrees, take some serious energy/money hence them being painted. But yes, you can't touch up powder coating, that's why wheel manufacturers only use it as the primer. But why do you think they use a powder primer instead of wet paint

 

[TAITSIE]

Another vote for LR Direct

 

[KimB]

I think I'll use paddocks for all the chassis clips then as they all break when removing then Lr direct for important components. Seems like the best compromise. First order is every chassis clip and some other bits and peices. I'll use paddocks. Thanks all
Kim

 

[stormin]

I'm another powder coat hater. I see it as just a cheap way of manufacturers applying a thick coat of colour to an item in one hit. A paint system would have to be built up in many layers to achieve the same thickness. Powder coat looks good when it first goes on but always seems to suffer with rust bubbling under at some point. It's harder to repair a small section than with paint. It's also difficult to remove the coating by shot blasting as I've done a few items to replace with paint finish.

 

[TAITSIE]

Its an old pdf but its useful for some part numbers http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manuals/Defender_Parts_Catalogue.pdf

 

[Cobbler]

Here is the 2015 LR parts catalogue, if it works, 1987 onwards, I've been looking to see what year yours is but cannot find it. This may not work, but I may have the web link for all models, including Rangies but it doesn't seem to work properly.

http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1228/557

 

[super noob]

I like td5 I'm going to remove the centre silencer too they sound amazing. And pull well when remapped.

My issue is the electronics when wading, oil in the wiring loom and plastic head dowels if you're on a 10p engine. In all honesty I hate anything post 300tdi for reliability reasons and pre 200 for power, I wont touch a Rover V8 with a barge pole either unless its for a customer, ripped out the one that came in my series one and its getting a ford engine now

 

[KimB]

Thanks everyone for the parts catalogues. I'll be using them

My issue is the electronics when wading, oil in the wiring loom and plastic head dowels if you're on a 10p engine. In all honesty I hate anything post 300tdi for reliability reasons and pre 200 for power, I wont touch a Rover V8 with a barge pole either unless its for a customer, ripped out the one that came in my series one and its getting a ford engine now

I don't plan on going wading, it's more of a work vehicle to be honest. But will go off roading just not crossing streams lol

 

[The Devils Reject]

You can get an off the shelf extension loom for the ECU so you can stick it up in the roof out of harms way.

 

[awemawson]

Oil in the ECU loom seems common - I've had to have mine replaced - silly design in my opinion.