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Do you mean overdrive?, that will be a 4th! lever
- Thread starter madkayaker
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Do you mean overdrive?, that will be a 4th! lever
madkayaker
Pro sparkey Pro Welder
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so over drive if 4th gear?
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It's an extra set of gears on the back of the box (uses rear PTO position) so gives another set of ratios - technically you would have 16 forward and 4 reverse gears to play with as it operates on all gears!
Most people just use it in hi-range 3rd & 4th
madkayaker
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as clear as mud! i presume that its got something to do with the yellow and red leaver
rtbcomp
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You don't "put it in overun" that is the condition when you take your foot off the gas whilst in gear. The gearbox is most likely to jump out of gear under these conditions.
Push the yellow lever down to engage 4WD - can be done on the move - make sure any freewheeling hubs are engaged though!
Pull the red lever back to engage low ratio, this shouldn't be done on the move and 4WD will engage automatically.
Pulling the red lever back also releases the yellow knob, so to get from high ratio 4WD to 2WD stop and pull the red lever back and push it forward again.
There is a neutral position on the red lever.
If you have an overdrive only use it in top and 3rd, there is also a neutral position on this box.
Push the yellow lever down to engage 4WD - can be done on the move - make sure any freewheeling hubs are engaged though!
Pull the red lever back to engage low ratio, this shouldn't be done on the move and 4WD will engage automatically.
Pulling the red lever back also releases the yellow knob, so to get from high ratio 4WD to 2WD stop and pull the red lever back and push it forward again.
There is a neutral position on the red lever.
If you have an overdrive only use it in top and 3rd, there is also a neutral position on this box.
madkayaker
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that make sense! thanks
Overrun is when from higher revs you let the revs sink down while in gear.
Red forward is 2wd high
If you push yellow down you get 4wd high
Red in middle is neutral, no drive
Red to back is 4wd low.
Yellow lever will pop up, if it was down
http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php/36722-Series-Landies....-What-do-all-those-levers-do
Red forward is 2wd high
If you push yellow down you get 4wd high
Red in middle is neutral, no drive
Red to back is 4wd low.
Yellow lever will pop up, if it was down
http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php/36722-Series-Landies....-What-do-all-those-levers-do
series2
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Marsland's do a nice replacement chassis for the air portable's, but only made to order. I prefer them to the Richards ones, nicer finish all round. Rear crossmember, rear quarter chassis, front quarter chassis, centre crossmember, dumb irons & all outriggers are available as repair panels.
Mechanical bits are the same as a series, just the body panels & chassis differ. You can rebuild one on a standard 88" series chassis if you're not bothered about originality (I've seen it done)
you can buy all the repair panels for the bulkhead, It will almost certainly need footwells, they're about £10 each. If you need to repair the bulkhead, do it in situ, then take it off and paint it!
at £2000, it's worth it even if it needs a chassis.
if it's not 12v already, make it so. 24v ones are rare now, and the money you recoup from the parts will offset the repair bills.
Mechanical bits are the same as a series, just the body panels & chassis differ. You can rebuild one on a standard 88" series chassis if you're not bothered about originality (I've seen it done)
you can buy all the repair panels for the bulkhead, It will almost certainly need footwells, they're about £10 each. If you need to repair the bulkhead, do it in situ, then take it off and paint it!
at £2000, it's worth it even if it needs a chassis.
if it's not 12v already, make it so. 24v ones are rare now, and the money you recoup from the parts will offset the repair bills.
Last edited:
seriesonewelder
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http://www.undercovercovers.co.uk/index.htm
they made a one-off tilt for one of my LRs, I recommend them.
they made a one-off tilt for one of my LRs, I recommend them.
zzr1200
Working at 650 ft on open steel work.
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It'll probably have the PTO hole in the gearbox but there be an output shaft support cone, so no PTO fitted......
pidgeon chit welder
sticking metal since 1962
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If you notice the live front axle tractor joint seels have leaked or as has been said the tractor joint hubs have been filled with grease also check the axle breathers ..quite often they are blocked and you get a pressure build up which blows oil out of seals .
Same with the rear axle breather
Same with the rear axle breather
madkayaker
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where are the axle breathers?
Shox Dr
Chief Engineer to Carlos Fandango
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On the top of the axle at the side of the diff, there is also one on the Gearbox and Transfer box
madkayaker
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if i get it a workshop manual will be following
Shox Dr
Chief Engineer to Carlos Fandango
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Don't need one fella there are plenty on't web.
A good site is http://www.landrovernet.com/
for any thing LR
A good site is http://www.landrovernet.com/
for any thing LR
madkayaker
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true and the blokes i'm going to work with have all restored many!
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I've got a copy of the military handbook for mine, it tells you how to immobilise/destroy the vehicle to stop the "enemy" using it!
madkayaker
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well i own a land rover! had a look at all the points identified and all seams fine. odd little bit of rust around windows on doors and in rear wheel arch. the chassis looks and prodded sound ant the bulkhead looks top condition including around the vents. couple of niggle bits to sort being window washer jets and working out how to get head lights on it still have the military switch and Infra Red switch the gear box is a bit hit and miss on gears but thats me not being used to old gear boxes any more!
excellent...OLD Landrovers are like marmite you ether love them or hate them
as my hoby is trialing/raceing them for last 15= years i love them to bits BUT as my belly get old and bigger i find it very hard to get in a series or a 90/110 as there isnot enough room between the steering wheel and door post to get in, sadly now have to suffer a disco for my sins but am in the process of building a 90 with a bigger door opening about 6" wider its in the drawing dpt at the moment so can get all bits togeather and start assembling the bigger doors roof pannel etc as its going to be a truck cab with bigger doors,..
as my hoby is trialing/raceing them for last 15= years i love them to bits BUT as my belly get old and bigger i find it very hard to get in a series or a 90/110 as there isnot enough room between the steering wheel and door post to get in, sadly now have to suffer a disco for my sins but am in the process of building a 90 with a bigger door opening about 6" wider its in the drawing dpt at the moment so can get all bits togeather and start assembling the bigger doors roof pannel etc as its going to be a truck cab with bigger doors,..
