RWD3M
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Yes it does! Now get on with it!
- Thread starter Jelly_Sheffield
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OJCar
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You cut up the outer panel to make the filler rods...
Having cut up the outer panel to make filler rods, you now are unable to refit it.
#Masterclass Procrastination
Jelly_Sheffield
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I found more procrastination in drilling the brackets for the mud-guards ready to weld on...
And then finally, accepted my fate...
Only it turns out, not being an octopus, I can't actually refit the external panel on my own anyway.
My partner would normally put on her overalls* and assist with this kind of thing, but she is currently off tending to the needs of His Imperial Majesty the Cat**, so I will have to find something else to do with myself.
* Turns out not getting her clothes dirty was all the persuasion she needed to work on cars, although because I got the overalls free from a girl I used to work with, the neighbour does take the **** out of us for being matchy-matchy.
** Well, He thinks he's an emperor anyway, silly wee pudding that he is.
And then finally, accepted my fate...
Only it turns out, not being an octopus, I can't actually refit the external panel on my own anyway.
My partner would normally put on her overalls* and assist with this kind of thing, but she is currently off tending to the needs of His Imperial Majesty the Cat**, so I will have to find something else to do with myself.
* Turns out not getting her clothes dirty was all the persuasion she needed to work on cars, although because I got the overalls free from a girl I used to work with, the neighbour does take the **** out of us for being matchy-matchy.
** Well, He thinks he's an emperor anyway, silly wee pudding that he is.
Last edited:
Bobupndown
What could possibly go wrong?
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A most useful instruction to resolve so many idiosyncrasies of the internal combustion engine.
Hilarious
OJCar
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Oh Yes you can!
Put the spire nuts onto the bulkhead.
Fit the middle two with their acme bolts only just engaged on the thread, so they are sticking out a bit.
The outer panel has slots to fit onto these two acme bolts, so, with a couple of the blots and nuts for the front of the flange easily to hand,
slot the outer panel onto the acme bolts, pop blot thro hole in middle or front panel hole, fit nut to it finger tight.
Fit rest of bolts, including the other two acme bolts, fit nuts finger tight.
Wobble the panel about, so it achieves the high precision of Land Rover Series panel gaps (plus or minus 3 1/2 inches).
Tighten nuts, then tighten the nuts on the Land Rover and do up the acme bolts.
Jelly_Sheffield
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No Acme Bolts or J-nuts, just matched clearance holes for M6 pan head machine screws and lock nuts (which had to be cut or snapped out when I disassembled it, that was fun!)
This appears to be a (particularly stupid) peculiarity of the Stage 1 wings, which have a different part number to all the other Series wings.
As a result I need to hold the panel up in alignment whilst also reaching round that flange to get a locknut in the correct place, then start a screw in it.
I am considering super-gluing the nuts on before I start, it won't hold them enough to tighten fully, but it will hold well enough to let me get the bolts all started.
Oh joy, panel gaps! I'm sure I will enjoy this!!!
This appears to be a (particularly stupid) peculiarity of the Stage 1 wings, which have a different part number to all the other Series wings.
As a result I need to hold the panel up in alignment whilst also reaching round that flange to get a locknut in the correct place, then start a screw in it.
I am considering super-gluing the nuts on before I start, it won't hold them enough to tighten fully, but it will hold well enough to let me get the bolts all started.
Oh joy, panel gaps! I'm sure I will enjoy this!!!
OJCar
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The spire nuts go into the holes on the front side of the door pillar (A Pillar) of the bulkhead
Highlighted in blue
Four per side part number AK616011
Acme bolts are part number AM605061
The rear edge of the outer panel looks like this;
The top and bottom holes are round (blue) the middle two slotted (red).
The outer panels for series 3 only come in two flavours RHD and LHD
RHD passenger side is 347475 LHD drivers side 330427 (same as a Series 2 outer panel )
The Inner panel and front panel for the Stage Ones have their own unique part numbers because of the different front panel arrangement
Circled 5 and Circled 8 are the Stage One parts
The inner and outer wings and the front panel are all joined together by 1/4UNF nuts and bolts (but M6 fits fine).
HTH
Highlighted in blue
Four per side part number AK616011
Acme bolts are part number AM605061
The rear edge of the outer panel looks like this;
The top and bottom holes are round (blue) the middle two slotted (red).
The outer panels for series 3 only come in two flavours RHD and LHD
RHD passenger side is 347475 LHD drivers side 330427 (same as a Series 2 outer panel )
The Inner panel and front panel for the Stage Ones have their own unique part numbers because of the different front panel arrangement
Circled 5 and Circled 8 are the Stage One parts
The inner and outer wings and the front panel are all joined together by 1/4UNF nuts and bolts (but M6 fits fine).
HTH
OJCar
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BTW as long as His Imperial Majesty has to fold his whiskers to fit through the gap it will be alright!
Jelly_Sheffield
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Ahhh, it was too corroded to see that's how it was assembled when I had it apart, but what you're saying fits perfectly with what I've restored it to now
I'm using YRM aftermarket parts, so no Acme Bolts or Spire Clips in sight, the bulkhead connection is M8 Machine Screws into corresponding J-Nuts... Exactly the same principle, just less crudely executed.
I probably can do that on my own, but I definitely won't enjoy it!
Jelly_Sheffield
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So just flapping wildly at the side in the wind, like a gaping aluminium maw, menacing nearby pedestrians?BTW as long as His Imperial Majesty has to fold his whiskers to fit through the gap it will be alright!
I suppose it is MOT exempt for a reason, standards were just different back then.
OJCar
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Try undoing it in 40 years time and you will find that Rover Car Co Ltd knew what they were doing in choosing Acme bolts over conventional bolts.
So that is where Swarfega comes from, inside a two headed furry thing!
It was one of Maggie's Policies back then - "Tough on Pedestrians - Tough on the causes of Pedestrians"
Marvin: “My capacity for happiness you could fit into a matchbox without taking out the matches first.”
Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
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I haven't recovered from removing 15+ of them from the rear wheel arches of my Hilux, with them being so badly corroded that this mostly consisted of snapping the heads off with minimal force (but the shank staying in both sides of the spire nut, which then had to be carefully dissected with an angle grinder), or the nut just straight up tearing through the bodywork.
I'm of the firm opinion that SS fasteners + Coarse Threads + Low Strength Threadlock are the best solution to ensure reliable disassembly torque long into the future.
Wildefalcon
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SS and alloy?
OJCar
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Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
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The factory carbon steel fasteners don't exactly stop galvanic corrosion now do they?
There's some rubber isolating washers in the fastner pack, which should help significantly with the issue.
If I was threading Stainless into Aluminium I would be worried, corrosion of the panels from bolted contact (with a rubber washer) much less of a concern to me, compared to ensuring the threads don't seize up (which is where Threadlock is key).
SS Vs Galv bolts seems to be a holy-war type question on Landrover forums, but the proponents are able to quite convincingly point at vehicles that haven't disintegrated into a pile of white flakes...
But everyone agrees that grease or sealant in SS threads is a must.
Jelly_Sheffield
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Attempting to install the correct screws in the doors didn't go to plan at all.
No idea what went wrong, but extracting that J Nut was an utter nightmare.
Got there in the end though.
The wing went back on as described and was every bit as awkward as I expected.
Overall today has been rubbish, so it figures that the Landy should offer me a job of equivalent "ughhhhh, really?"-ness to match.
Tomorrow is a choice between cleaning up the blower motor, or beginning to strip down the other side...
addjunkie
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Youve done a great job of the patina paint work. Reading this thread just reinforces when I dont want an old Landrover!
OJCar
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What material were the J nuts and screws made of?
Stainless will sometimes seize up (think its called galling)
Jelly_Sheffield
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The trick is to have the previous owner get halfway through respraying it, then abandon it in a hedge for 20 years!
