Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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At least you wont burn your legs now
Who said anything about legs...
- Thread starter Onoff
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Who said anything about legs...
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Morning, eight and half hours later...
It's still floating, in a sea of PVA:
There's like a gloopy slab of PVA on top. Lifting one edge and the horns can be seen poking through. Quite pleased the wax appears to have got in that far:
After a rinse under a tepid tap, another peek under the thick, top bit. The wax even appears to have picked up the layer lines from the printer. The water is not affecting the wax which was always the intention:
Back in fresh, tepid water for further soaking. Seem to recall something like 11 hours at an ideal 35degC was the way to go:
It's still floating, in a sea of PVA:
There's like a gloopy slab of PVA on top. Lifting one edge and the horns can be seen poking through. Quite pleased the wax appears to have got in that far:
After a rinse under a tepid tap, another peek under the thick, top bit. The wax even appears to have picked up the layer lines from the printer. The water is not affecting the wax which was always the intention:
Back in fresh, tepid water for further soaking. Seem to recall something like 11 hours at an ideal 35degC was the way to go:
JMS1972
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Can to agitate it a bit with a soft paint brush to encourage it off? Or will that mark the wax?
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Can to agitate it a bit with a soft paint brush to encourage it off? Or will that mark the wax?
A small model brush certainly helps. Doesn't mark the wax, as long as you keep the water temperature down. It really is a hard wax.
It's slowly appearing.
I reckon the best would be an aquarium pump to agitate and a heater. (A bit like PCB etching).
Definitely onto a winner, the old ways (lost wax) are maybe the best! The eyes and ears are clearly detailed.
The wax itself seems buoyant so using a small socket to weight it down.
The bits in the recesses I'm delicately digging out with a terminal screwdriver without touching the wax, then soaking again.
Interestingly there's some detail missing around the left hand edge. The wax just didn't flow / get there quick enough. Think @Kram had some concerns over those areas way back in the thread?
I overfilled of course! Not sure how to not do that again. Guess I need to know the wax weight and calculate the volume.
Quite enjoying the intricacy of the whole process tbh!
(Steak Wotsits in case anyone wondered
)
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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So this is about 36 hours after first starting to soak. 99% of the PVA is gone.
To get a useable wax model from this, then now I have to carve the excess off and repair the missing bits (with wax). Or...print another PVA mould, measure the wax amount properly, recycle this one
, re pour / soak.
On the plus side this exercise has come quite far. Couldn't have done it without the help on here!
To get a useable wax model from this, then now I have to carve the excess off and repair the missing bits (with wax). Or...print another PVA mould, measure the wax amount properly, recycle this one
, re pour / soak. On the plus side this exercise has come quite far. Couldn't have done it without the help on here!
JMS1972
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Veg Oil Guy et Al seem to all use something like this.
I'd probably wrap some copper wire round a soldering iron for a one off. Assuming you had a small iron.
I'd probably wrap some copper wire round a soldering iron for a one off. Assuming you had a small iron.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Veg Oil Guy et Al seem to all use something like this.
I'd probably wrap some copper wire round a soldering iron for a one off. Assuming you had a small iron.
That's from Walsh's at Biggin Hill where I got the investment plaster from.
I might get one if I go that way again and save the fiver postage. My brother uses them too for his copper/ silver smithing stuff.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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After some scalpel trimming...
Interestingly, straight out of room temperature water, it's really quite hard. Handling, so bringing it up to circa 37degC and it becomes much more malleable and easy to carve. With I guess the risk of damage. Bear in mind the melting temperature is 52degC.
Lost a lot of detail between some of the letters. Between the H & E of THE, then the I, N & G in RISING, the U & N in SUN.
Have to have a think whether to try again. Gutting, but probably no option but to! Shown next to a 0.1mm layer PLA print:
Interestingly, straight out of room temperature water, it's really quite hard. Handling, so bringing it up to circa 37degC and it becomes much more malleable and easy to carve. With I guess the risk of damage. Bear in mind the melting temperature is 52degC.
Lost a lot of detail between some of the letters. Between the H & E of THE, then the I, N & G in RISING, the U & N in SUN.
Have to have a think whether to try again. Gutting, but probably no option but to! Shown next to a 0.1mm layer PLA print:
Dr.Al
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I just checked mine and the lowest it'll let you set the temperature is 100°C.
daedalusminos
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Why don't you got the lost PLA route?
Alternatively you can get 'lost wax' resin for MSLA printers....not the cheapest though!
Alternatively you can get 'lost wax' resin for MSLA printers....not the cheapest though!
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Very possibly will and indeed the PLA forms are done but I just wanted to try wax.
Have you actually done lost PLA?
prepman
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Bought this....hasn't arrived yet.
https://www.castreekilns.co.uk/dense-castable-refractory-25kg-865-p.asp
1700C version.
My reciped sand/bentonite/perlite sodium silicate has melted again in my propane furnace.
Already have the K wool.
Will hopefully end up like this....
https://www.castreekilns.co.uk/dense-castable-refractory-25kg-865-p.asp
1700C version.
My reciped sand/bentonite/perlite sodium silicate has melted again in my propane furnace.
Already have the K wool.
Will hopefully end up like this....
Kram
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Wax pens are simple enough, short length of nichrome wire, wooden handle, and a step down regulator to give a couple volts. Might make one up later.
You could print a positive of the letters ,place them on the wax and fill the gaps?
@prepman keep us updated. I found my clay has cracked all over so Im considering that when I do v2.
You could print a positive of the letters ,place them on the wax and fill the gaps?
@prepman keep us updated. I found my clay has cracked all over so Im considering that when I do v2.
prepman
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It's been a torturous path of the years. Sand based refractory melts, when it's not exploding.
First one I made I used Thermolite blocks and they just melted in 2012...
This one was better but lid exploded with steam...scary.
The refractory is totally F'd. Difficult getting furnace out. My burner design works well, with propane aspirated, non forced. the temp is on knife-edge with flame temp. Slight adjustments make a big difference. When it was in tip-top condition I could go from cold to copper melt in ~10mins. Then when u/s go to >1hr and only just make it.
