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Kram
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Ordered, thanks, looks like the best option under £100.
Mart63
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I have one and can vouch for it. Well worth £75.00, I paid nearer £100.00.
Kram
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Only annoyance is GYS are French. I imagine price went up with brexit but maybe HIS may have pre-brexit stock.
Looks like its been sent and should be here tomorrow
I poked the old one. Has two lithium coin cells 2430 inside. Does the solar recharge them, or have they lasted 10 years. Measures 2.9v. I have left it out in the sun, is it worth replacing the cells? I would still abuse it for stick and any galvanised as I can use my p3 mask with it.
Looks like its been sent and should be here tomorrow
I poked the old one. Has two lithium coin cells 2430 inside. Does the solar recharge them, or have they lasted 10 years. Measures 2.9v. I have left it out in the sun, is it worth replacing the cells? I would still abuse it for stick and any galvanised as I can use my p3 mask with it.
Ubique
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It'll be interesting to see what you get - the one in the link has been superseded by GYS to one with a '+' it appears to have a rating of 1/1/1/1 and a faster reaction time.Only annoyance is GYS are French. I imagine price went up with brexit but maybe HIS may have pre-brexit stock.
Looks like its been sent and should be here tomorrow
I poked the old one. Has two lithium coin cells 2430 inside. Does the solar recharge them, or have they lasted 10 years. Measures 2.9v. I have left it out in the sun, is it worth replacing the cells? I would still abuse it for stick and any galvanised as I can use my p3 mask with it.
When I bought my new welder from WSD last week, I treated myself to a new mask. Didn't have a clue but wanted full colour, so took the advice of the shop.
Bought a... Bohler I think it is (suggested over the popular & oft-quoted Parweld by WSD). Full colour, external knob to be able to adjust shade level with it on, and a Grind button below the knob (which I won't use). Comfy, nicely adjustable headband and general fitting and flip, good clarity and a big step over my cheap Sealey - so I guess it's a good un.
Bought a... Bohler I think it is (suggested over the popular & oft-quoted Parweld by WSD). Full colour, external knob to be able to adjust shade level with it on, and a Grind button below the knob (which I won't use). Comfy, nicely adjustable headband and general fitting and flip, good clarity and a big step over my cheap Sealey - so I guess it's a good un.
dis you get guardian 50 or guardian 62?
I´m looking for chinese lcd:
ARTOTIC SUN7B (Sherman V3b )
SUN9BX (Sherman V4)SUN20B (Sherman 5a)
I think that are the same lcd that parweld uses but at a lower cost. As it is imported to europe i think that they have to comply with european regulations so it will be safer than buying directly from china.
There is a newer lcd that has 5 sensors.
Kram
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There is little chance of the GYS arriving any time soon as still lost with fedex, so I have looked on Amazon for a cheapy to arrive tomorrow. I was going to get just an ADF but none cheap on prime.
I decided a slightly better cheapy for £33. 4 sensors, 100x63 true colour with side windows. It has a couple of good reviews.
I decided a slightly better cheapy for £33. 4 sensors, 100x63 true colour with side windows. It has a couple of good reviews.
Kram
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It arrived as a 1/1/1/2, so its not the latest + model. What do you have?
While the amazon is 1/1/1/1, I cant really tell the difference between them except the amazon has the iridium mirroring on the outside, they are the same looking through side by side.
I havent tried welding yet.
They share a very similar adf design apart the lid shape. The amazon is more comfortable but slightly less secure, and smaller.
Silly question here - for testing they both trigger by tv IR remotes. They dont trigger by a super bright led torch - fair enough the sensors dont work on visible light. However they do trigger from phone and tv LCD's. Whys that then? Lcd's are usually visible light only.
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
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The ratings are meaningless IMHO.
Even the latest and greatest 3M speedglas XXi ADF is only 1/1/1/2, and that's the one I'd put above everything else on the market personally. Same with the Esab A50, 1/1/1/2 rating but in real life you'd never want anything else. As soon as you use the hood a bit, the lens gets scratched and spattered anyway.
It's also dead easy to make a 1/1/1/2 ADF. The rating has nothing to do with comfort, durability, reliability, ergonomics, or any of that good stuff. It's not even got anything to do with colour or contrast (contrast being incredibly important to see your welds, but not something you can measure easily!)
On the cheaper import stuff, dare i say it they'll print on a rating regardless of whether its true or not. On the high end stuff, you automatically expect it to be very good anyways.
Ergo, it means nothing whatsoever to me personally.
Even the latest and greatest 3M speedglas XXi ADF is only 1/1/1/2, and that's the one I'd put above everything else on the market personally. Same with the Esab A50, 1/1/1/2 rating but in real life you'd never want anything else. As soon as you use the hood a bit, the lens gets scratched and spattered anyway.
It's also dead easy to make a 1/1/1/2 ADF. The rating has nothing to do with comfort, durability, reliability, ergonomics, or any of that good stuff. It's not even got anything to do with colour or contrast (contrast being incredibly important to see your welds, but not something you can measure easily!)
On the cheaper import stuff, dare i say it they'll print on a rating regardless of whether its true or not. On the high end stuff, you automatically expect it to be very good anyways.
Ergo, it means nothing whatsoever to me personally.
Ubique
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Mine is the same as yours, I think the 'white' LED torch puts out composite light from one source whereas there are three primary light sources in LCD panel so more blue end of the spectrum will be output.
MikeBs
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Hi,
After reading this, just got a GYS Alien from HIS as a replacement for an eBay £20 auto darkening mask and am very pleased with the purchase.
Not so pleased with the instructions, for a safety item I expected better.
Hence a few questions to try and plug some ever widening knowledge gaps.
I am predominantly welding 2mm to 3mm mild steel with the occasional bit of rebar and 8mm solid bar tacking nuts or spheres on the end of them.
Nothing structural so generally trying to get decent looking joints that will support their own weight and survive in the garden if a cat/bird lands on them.
This should give an idea of the arc that I am defending my eyes from.
I have the sensitivity and delay settings to about mid way on the range.
The darkness to 9-13.
This seems to work for me.
It also has a knob on the side that has "Grinding" and a scale from 5-9 and 9-13.
I have this set to 10 and moving form 9 to 13 doesn't seem to make a lot of difference.
I assume that "Grinding" switches the mask darkening off.
Have I got the wrong idea of auto darkening?
My £20 mask was a 9-13 mask but had no adjustment of any kind so I assumed it sensed the brightness of the arc and adjusted from 9 to 13 accordingly.
Is this correct?
or
With the GYS Alien do I need to set the darkness to what I feel it the best for what I am doing and hence increase the setting on the side if I feel the arc is brighter than I expected it to be?
Bearing in mind as a newcomer I have no previous experience of what to expect.
Also, the mask came with a spare set of lenses.
The outer one seems to be clear plastic with a "WWH B CE" stamp on it.
The inner one is also clear, but with a "WWH 1 F CE" stamp on it.
Are these functional, to protect my face from harmful rays, or purely to protect the expensive darkening bits from being scratched or damaged?
I have seen spares on eBay and would be wary of buying them from an unknown source, if they had a safety function.
Not so wary if there purpose was only stopping stuff marking the expensive parts of the mask.
Mike
After reading this, just got a GYS Alien from HIS as a replacement for an eBay £20 auto darkening mask and am very pleased with the purchase.
Not so pleased with the instructions, for a safety item I expected better.
Hence a few questions to try and plug some ever widening knowledge gaps.
I am predominantly welding 2mm to 3mm mild steel with the occasional bit of rebar and 8mm solid bar tacking nuts or spheres on the end of them.
Nothing structural so generally trying to get decent looking joints that will support their own weight and survive in the garden if a cat/bird lands on them.
This should give an idea of the arc that I am defending my eyes from.
I have the sensitivity and delay settings to about mid way on the range.
The darkness to 9-13.
This seems to work for me.
It also has a knob on the side that has "Grinding" and a scale from 5-9 and 9-13.
I have this set to 10 and moving form 9 to 13 doesn't seem to make a lot of difference.
I assume that "Grinding" switches the mask darkening off.
Have I got the wrong idea of auto darkening?
My £20 mask was a 9-13 mask but had no adjustment of any kind so I assumed it sensed the brightness of the arc and adjusted from 9 to 13 accordingly.
Is this correct?
or
With the GYS Alien do I need to set the darkness to what I feel it the best for what I am doing and hence increase the setting on the side if I feel the arc is brighter than I expected it to be?
Bearing in mind as a newcomer I have no previous experience of what to expect.
Also, the mask came with a spare set of lenses.
The outer one seems to be clear plastic with a "WWH B CE" stamp on it.
The inner one is also clear, but with a "WWH 1 F CE" stamp on it.
Are these functional, to protect my face from harmful rays, or purely to protect the expensive darkening bits from being scratched or damaged?
I have seen spares on eBay and would be wary of buying them from an unknown source, if they had a safety function.
Not so wary if there purpose was only stopping stuff marking the expensive parts of the mask.
Mike
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
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Yup, that's it in a nutshell.
For reference I run my A50s at 10-11 for TIG and some MIG, I'll put it up to 12 if I'm doing a lot of high amp MIG.
You could run at shade 6 for welding if your eyes could stand it
you still get all the UV protection regardless of shade, it's about comfort and being able to see the puddle 
MikeBs
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- Worcester
Thanks for that Munkel,You could run at shade 6 for welding if your eyes could stand it
Just to see what it was like I did strike an arc for a slit second with the helmet set to 5-9 and won't do it again. Couldn't see a thing other than "White"
I may have a play and see what its like with it dialled down a bit from 13. I don't see me doing much Hi amp stuff.
