Mk1 Mini Cooper S restoration

[bert]

The front end is now on and I'm 90% happy with the gaps.

There is quite a lot of modifications needed to the front panel to make it mk1 Cooper s spec.

It needed all the stuff for the oil filler and the correct stiffer fitting

 

[Exuptoy]

Quick question.
I need to fit my Heritage front end. I assume it’s easier with the subframe fitted as you have datum points in the front mounts? How do you manage when there’s no subby fitted?

 

[bert]

You have to have the front sub frame fitted and with 1 or 2 shims on the front bolts to fit the front end panels. Without it you stand no chance of making things line up.

 

[minimutly]

With a rubber mounted subby I would get some solid mounts fitted first...

 

[Richard Stowe]

It's looking good! but is there any of the original body left?

 

[Dilkris]

I guess this is why 1275 Cooper S's are worth so much.... circa £65K?
That's a serious amount of work - bodywork is pure magic to me - where you guys start and how you do it - is beyond me.
I haven't a clue what you are actually doing - but well done...!!!!

 

[bert]

It's looking good! but is there any of the original body left?

Yes, only about 45% of this car has been replaced. This is what I would class as a light restoration of a 54 year old car.

 

[Richard Stowe]

sweet!! so have ya done anything with the engine yet? ps I Love mini's I've had 4 , would have been a clubman estate with a fiat 2.0l twin cam aswell but i screwed my arm up

 

[bert]

The owner had the engine refurbished to a fast road spec 3 years ago, I'm going to separate the gearbox from the engine to inspect as it's been left without the dizzy fitted and inlet/exhaust ports open.

 

[bert]

With a rubber mounted subby I would get some solid mounts fitted first...

I'm not keen on solid mounting as it transmits a load more noise and I've had to weld up quite a few toe boards where they have been fitted.

 

[minimutly]

I'm not keen on solid mounting as it transmits a load more noise and I've had to weld up quite a few toe boards where they have been fitted.

Well no more noise than pre rubber mounts, and people do fit them on the back only, which is a disaster leading to cracking. With the standard rubber mounts, open the bonnet, get someone to waggle the wheel - first +-5 degrees it’s the subby that moves. Took me a while to work out why the first one I had years ago used to move around on the road until I discovered this.
Leyland really didn’t spend enough on the rubber stuff on minis...

 

[Popcorn]

On the rubber mounted subframes minis, replacing the Top and tear drop mounts gets rid of the movement in the front frame and stops the weaving under heavy braking.
Doing the rears just cracks the toe board, on the solid mounted earlier minis the frame is longer and attached to the body more securely.

 

[minimutly]

On the rubber mounted subframes minis, replacing the Top and tear drop mounts gets rid of the movement in the front frame and stops the weaving under heavy braking.
Doing the rears just cracks the toe board, on the solid mounted earlier minis the frame is longer and attached to the body more securely.

Yes, maybe that extra length helps. The teardrops? Pah, what do they do? Very little I would say due to the front end flex, but they do add some stiffness I suppose.

 

[Exuptoy]

You have to have the front sub frame fitted and with 1 or 2 shims on the front bolts to fit the front end panels. Without it you stand no chance of making things line up.

So where are the shims located? Behind the panel but in front of the subby?

 

[Exuptoy]

I am toying with selling my heritage front end and changing it to Clubman. I love the clubby look and don’t care much for the fact it’s a 90’s Cooper as it’s gonna have a full length panoramic glass sunroof from the BMW mini so the originality is out of the window.
Anyone want a full heritage front for 75% of the as new price?

 

[daleyd]

Better not mention my original 1071 engine then, whats that worth.

Is that a question?
You could always pop a pic up or even start your own post on it.

A real one would be worth a bob or two, imaginary ones not so much…

 

[KemppiFrog]

Fascinating..
I reshelled my bro's 997 Cooper back in '67. £160 for a new shell back then. Put it on a spit through the speedo hole and the one in the back seat to spray it. Next year made it a 998 by destroking an 1100 donk. The result was much quicker than standard and taught me quite a bit. He then bought a 1275S that had been breathed on by Downton. Very nice with decent seats. Meanwhile I had converted my van to a saloon with an early light shell and another 998/1100 conversion giving about 80bhp. De-seamed it too. Not the way to learn gas welding (no migs about then)
Happy days
£65K for a Mini, wow..

 

[bert]

So where are the shims located? Behind the panel but in front of the subby?

Yes, that's correct

 

[doubleboost]

This one was in excess of £ 75K
The video mentions MK11 it is in fact a late MK1
Many years ago we used to scrap them and put the bits in to Mini Marcos & Mini Moke kit cars

 

[daleyd]

Just read this from beginning, some top work there @bert love the pics