Myford ML10 (Malcolm Myford)

[Turbo]

Told you so

Actually noticing it is a very good sign though, the fact you realised and want to do something about it bodes well for future works

I haven't tested mine yet as it's making stuff as accurately as I need, though anything so far has been made close to the chuck & not affected by twist in the bed. The base it's currently on wouldn't be the sturdiest & I didn't see the point levelling it until I got a better base sorted out. Unfortunately that job has joined the 'when I get around to it' list and I can't find any round tuits!

 

[slim_boy_fat]

........ and I can't find any round tuits!

Never let it be said.........

 

[cumbriasteve]

Update time:

The intention of this thread was a sort of 'me and my myford blog' so even though I posted my first project in the 'what have you made thread' I decided to revert back to this thread to give a continual story in one place.

So..lacking a gear shaft which stopped me having gear cutting function and auto feed I decided I would make one, I will be honest and say the second attempt worked out fine, the first attempt self destructed when I bit in too deep on a cut (still on the learning curve).

Now those with sharp eyesight will notice the missing key, I had several options to sort this, buy a milling machine, buy a milling gadget for the lathe or batter a 2.5 welding rod square with a big hammer and file it to shape to lock the two wheels together but be free running on the shaft.

I am pleased to say the welding rod option has worked well past expectations, the gears are mounted, well greased and the feed works perfectly, in fact I was surprised how quiet the gear train is, was expecting a good old rattling but virtually zero.

It's a good excuse to have a lathe to make such items, of course I then realised if I did not have the lathe I would not have needed to make one in the first place.

The next project is my Metalcraft rolling tool, it is the middle weight model and the rollers are designed for 18mm flat bar and as such the roller tops restrict my normal 20mm flat bar so a new set of rollers are planned.

I will probably have to enter the world of knurling to complete the rollers and ensure I don't get slipping during the process of rolling the flat bar, have got my eye on a clamp type knurling tool off the bay of evil....any excuse to buy toy's

Once I start I will show the project here and do a review on whatever knurling tool I end up with.

 

[Pete.]

If all you want to do is cut a keyway in that collar just grind a hss tool to the proper width, put the collar in the chuck, the toolbit in the holder on it's side and use the traverse handwheel to cut it a few thou at a time.

 

[cumbriasteve]

If all you want to do is cut a keyway in that collar just grind a hss tool to the proper width, put the collar in the chuck, the toolbit in the holder on it's side and use the traverse handwheel to cut it a few thou at a time.

Yeah I was aware of that method, seen it done on youtube but decided on the quick easy option as long as it worked and it did.

 

[RichardM]

Gib strip screws - 4 BA if I remember right - ML4 was a long time ago!

Slide dials, look into re-machineing to accomodate axial needle roller thrust bearings, you will be surprised by the difference.

Nice big tray under the riser blocks to catch the swarf, if you are not using a suds pump and only putting it on by brush then I would not worry about drainage.

Bed mounts - if that is just a tray under it, it won't be stiff enough, mine was mounted on a peice of 1.5" thick ground cast and checked to true.

Move your forward/reverse switch through 90 deg and under the tray, that way you don't get swarf / suds on it.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Slide dials, look into re-machineing to accomodate axial needle roller thrust bearings, you will be surprised by the difference.

Do you have a "how to" or link to this being done, please?

 

[cumbriasteve]

Gib strip screws - 4 BA if I remember right - ML4 was a long time ago!

Slide dials, look into re-machineing to accomodate axial needle roller thrust bearings, you will be surprised by the difference.

Nice big tray under the riser blocks to catch the swarf, if you are not using a suds pump and only putting it on by brush then I would not worry about drainage.

Bed mounts - if that is just a tray under it, it won't be stiff enough, mine was mounted on a peice of 1.5" thick ground cast and checked to true.

Move your forward/reverse switch through 90 deg and under the tray, that way you don't get swarf / suds on it.

Not sure what the gib screws are but I have a box full of the right threaded screws so they have been sorted now.

Interested in the bearings mod and there is a tray pinched from the kitchen in place for swarf already.

 

[Pete.]

Slide dials, look into re-machineing to accomodate axial needle roller thrust bearings, you will be surprised by the difference.

I've just done this on a Denford. I used an old RC helicopter rotor thrust bearing.

 

[nick952]

This http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/projects/MYF001/myford-cstb-mod.html is for the ML7 and so I don't know if the parts will fit an ML10, but it does show what's needed, to fit thrust bearings to the cross slide feed screw.