You got a very good deal there mate..rare these days to find such a score
A keeper that girl is...keep us all updated on the build upDefiantly, When I was speaking to the seller he actually sold it for £1100 before with a lot of bids and interested messages etc however the buyer looked at it decided it was too hard to transport to pull out and the second highest bidder did the same so surprising I was the only bid this time.
Bit of history on the machine as well , He bought it 20 years ago off a RAF base auction for about £1700 at the time with all accessories etc. Me thinks that's a good thing as not production work all day everyday wearing out the ways doing parts over and over again.
Also very interesting bloke in general self employers hydraulics engineer and converted borers and some of them made on the lathe that cut the channel tunnel so the lathe has certainly made its mark and helped millions travel through Europe lol
A keeper that girl is...keep us all updated on the build up
Should be fun aligning everything
Took the head off a lathe once (3 lathes ago) and it took me a good couple weeks after i put the head back on to get the whole lathe dialed in again. My advice would be get the base set and leave to settle down for a day, then put the head on and leave that to settle in before you start tightening bolts and checking center heights and turning between the centers.Should be fun aligning everything
Yes the headstocks are adjustable on these.It's apart so it doesn't much matter now. It looks like it might be an adjustable headstock type but I can't tell from the pics. If it is then:
Get the bed into position and fixed down. Use a sensitive level to get the bed straight
Clean the headstock and bed and fit it up. Make test cuts to adjest the headstock for parallel cutting
Adjust the tailstock height and set-over for parallel turning between centres.
Can anyone identify what this is , it fits the chuck thread and taper
Only shame is they are numbered 1 to 4 however I am missing one think I have jaws number 1 , 2 and 4
Definitely.That thing might be a pot chuck adapter. Does it have a recess in the front with a bevelled inside edge?
Must say that is a well specified machine. Dual dials, ainjest threading, trav-a-dial and you have the steadies. All the bits that are normally robbed off it and sold separately. Bit of a jackpot TBH
That thing might be a pot chuck adapter. Does it have a recess in the front with a bevelled inside edge?
Must say that is a well specified machine. Dual dials, ainjest threading, trav-a-dial and you have the steadies. All the bits that are normally robbed off it and sold separately. Bit of a jackpot TBH
Wasn't even in the eBay photos just chucked in aswell with alot of the other bits , maybe two metres of 2" and a foot of 4" . 2" will be really handy for aligning the headstock also it fits through so a great stock to keep in the max that goes through spindleDefinitely.
He even had some long pieces of heavy bar stock thrown in free!
The first one is likely a spindle nose protector. If you are turning between centres or using the spindle taper to hold a collet, you do not want the chuck-securing nut to be rattling around. Sometimes they are made more elegantly/curvy than that one but the function is the same. People 3D print them nowadays. Needless to say, on no account install it with all that crud on the threads. Look how scrupulous Doubleboost is when he changes chucks - copy him.
Second ones are faceplate jaws. They effectively turn your faceplate into a giant 4-jaw chuck. Compare the stud length to the faceplate thickness to see if they play nicely. No big deal if one is missing. You might be able to pick up a set or partial set off eBay. Rotagrip probably sell them new.
Edit:
Best I have seen on the dual dials is this: https://www.circuitousroot.com/artifice/machine-shop/cr/colchester/repairs/dual-dials/index.html
You can search Espacenet and find the Gamet patent drawings as well.
For insight into how the faceplate jaws work, look on YT at Chris Maj and James Park Machining (turn screen sideways).
Thanks for the link on the dials I'll have a good read over later for when I will use them.
It's not necessary to know anything to be able to use them - it was more to assuage your curiosity if you wanted know how they work.
Mystic Meg prediction: once you ruin a couple of parts by following the wrong dial, you will be making a cover or shield to obscure whichever language you are not using (3D printed?).
Intresting to see they having the same screw pitch but metric and English threads
Seems like a good idea and thought it might have something like that I've seen online but might be for other dual dial lathes