I see these 4 screws.i have blasted some oil in them before I go to loosen them off and have a go thanks for thatThat is the compound slide. On the later Triumphs there is a single setscrew for you nipping it up to lock it. Looks like the earlier ones have a gib there and 4 screws. Loosen the screws then retighten until you just feel pressure whilst sliding and then check there is now movement radially on the slide and you should be good to go.
The last one pictured is pretty easy to get out iirc, just undo the nut holding the dial and handle on and take them off, then the 2 allen bolts and that cast flanged bit comes off the screw. My compound is tight too, will probably be even tighter when I mount the new top half I just got so I can fit a qctp
I watched this last night to get an idea of the lathe assemblyTbh since that's all off the machine I'd be stripping, cleaning and reassembling
It was all made by man it can be rebuilt By man. There's nothing complex about them really.I watched this last night to get an idea of the lathe assembly
A very nice restoration and alot of cleaning and painting giving nice finishes. Not sure if I would be too bothered about the paint maybe at some point but when he was stripping it he just cleaned and re assembled with a little tidying up on surface grinder on some of the flat bits.
Don't know if the lathe tolerance would change much as there was no bed grinding or scraping so still a older lathe just fresh paint and oil.
Might be worth taking a few bits apart and cleaning crud out but I would be worried I wouldn't get it back together again lol.
Some of the springs work their way out of the oiler cap over time so the ball "sags" down. They can be put back in. If you are going to replace the oiler a self tapper down the hole so it grips and then you can easily pull it out with a claw hammer. As you have seen also clean out the oiler hole.Was watching a restoration on youtube and he punchs these out from the inside and replaces them just pressure fit, Im not really looking to strip it all aprt like that so was thinking If i could use some sort of puller to take them out and replace.
Soo which way round is it for future reference lol
DOC - easy way to remember is actual dia. minus required dia. divide by 2
It was all made by man it can be rebuilt By man. There's nothing complex about them real
Looks like an oiling wick to meI see these 4 screws.i have blasted some oil in them before I go to loosen them off and have a go thanks for that
And your message about keeping it locked for ridigity I didn't think about that but a good idea only ever locked axis on mill never a lathe but doing to take as much play out as possible like you say.
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Was really easy , think it was 15/16 View attachment 316826
And there was a reason why it wasn't taking any oil may aswell have been plugged
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How much, if we were going to buy one?
Anyone have tips for cleaning and reassembling
£180 next day off Amazon and it's 7.5kw so 2kw more than I needed but was there and cheaper ,faster than banggodHow much, if we were going to buy one?
This: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DEGREASANT-KEROSENE-BASED-25L-NOT-20L-DEGREASER-/274077692088 (stinky, so best done outside wearing Tyvek overalls that you remove before entering house). Product is the equivalent of Gunk or Jizer but cheaper. Rye Oils are good for gearbox and way oils as well.
Rinse in hot water.
Followed by this: https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-heavy-duty-degreaser-5ltr/88668 (does not need to be used neat, hence smaller container)
Followed by drying in a low oven or with a hot air gun.
Thorough examination.
Stone off any dings.
Run tap down all internal threads and swoosh with brake cleaner.
Rub with grey Scotchbrite.
Wipe with Isopropyl alcohol
Lubricate.
Reassemble.
Really cruddy stuff and small fiddly stuff respond well to ultrasonic cleaning. You can put a small container of parts and cleaner into a bath of water in the cleaner itself. Uses less expensive cleaner and you can throw away the container if you do not want to clean it.
Amazing to hear got some closer ups of the surfaces , as I said it's came off a RAF base then occasional use home workshop so hoped that meant not alot of heavy use and production work which I hoped meant less wearFrom the pics above that machine has done no real work. Rarely do you see ways that good on such an old machine.
Amazing to hear got some closer ups of the surfaces , as I said it's came off a RAF base then occasional use home workshop so hoped that meant not alot of heavy use and production work which I hoped meant less wear
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We've got a diesel heater and a good bit of red diesel so that's a good idea a little dirt won't do the heater any harm and just leave the crap at the bottom. Had to scrape off some hardened grease sludge with plastic diesel would be worth a shot to loosen it off.If you have one a big tub and some diesel for soaking those. If not a spray bottle of diesel, will melt all the grease and dirt off.
Let it settle and the diesel will turn clear to be poured or syphoned off for reuse, or filter it and into car. Coffee filters work well and cheap. Sludge to scoop up and i to the bin.
Really stubbon parts that have no rubber or plastic, spray with carb cleaner in a sealed container as it will evaporate off.
I dislike the idea of water soluble degreasers.
Vfd looks big! Wants to be enclosed if your using coolant. Will it fit in the machine cupboard?