- Thread starter Lewis_RX8
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Lewis_RX8
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I could use a dial guage for measuring I saw double boosts video on it and seemed quite a good idea and one of the few things this lathe didn't come with was DRO lol , also like the way the dial guage dosent have any backlash like the dro but I'll see how I get on I suppose
Few things to get sorted before it takes its first cut so will be finding out then what it's like.
Few things to get sorted before it takes its first cut so will be finding out then what it's like.
Lewis_RX8
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Yup got confused there the dials have back lash so was thinking just to be sure when taking a final dimensions cut I could use the dial guage to measure my depth of cut rather than dials which could have the backlash mess up however ways around that I suppose
Pete.
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I would not worry too much about it, you'll soon get used to it. Backlash isn't the only thing that affects it your screw will be more worn in one spot than any other and the transition from worn to not worn can easily yield a few thou error.
DRO is the way to go, once you have the basics down.
DRO is the way to go, once you have the basics down.
He did indeed.
That's good, I looked through all the photos but couldn't see it. Must have been hiding so people wouldn't be too jealous!
Screwdriver
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I always get confused with my Colchester dials because they indicate the amount of material off the diameter, not the depth of cut.
err, or is it the other way round...
err, or is it the other way round...
8ob
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Same here, I dont think I would want a mill or lathe without a DRO, being able to switch between metric/imperial at the push of a button is invaluable.
Bob
It took me forever to get the hang of them as wellI always get confused with my Colchester dials because they indicate the amount of material off the diameter, not the depth of cut.
err, or is it the other way round...
I love Lathes. I am utterly baffled by all the handwheels, dials, moving bits, tools etc - you might as well ask me how to fly a 747.
Reading the posts was interesting but largely equally baffling.... but Lathes fascinate me.
But seeing one being used would be enough for me, watching all the machine bits whirring round and travelling back n forth - proper mechanical engineering poetry in motion.
It's great that there are clever folks out there saving beauties like this one and keeping them going - cos I'm certain we'll never see their like manufactured again.
Reading the posts was interesting but largely equally baffling.... but Lathes fascinate me.
But seeing one being used would be enough for me, watching all the machine bits whirring round and travelling back n forth - proper mechanical engineering poetry in motion.
It's great that there are clever folks out there saving beauties like this one and keeping them going - cos I'm certain we'll never see their like manufactured again.
Lewis_RX8
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I always get confused with my Colchester dials because they indicate the amount of material off the diameter, not the depth of cut.
err, or is it the other way round...
Soo which way round is it for future reference lolIt took me forever to get the hang of them as well
Gap piece but not screws for it so will need to sort those out then get it in.
May be a upgrade project for later once its running
Lewis_RX8
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Lewis_RX8
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Was going around all the oil points last night putting a good bit in before moving it all loads to make sure its all lubricated , mainly on the apron. For some reason the cross slide I think its called at the red arrow , It was a bit stiff to turn took two hands at first but pumping oil through it freed up a little down to stiff for one hand. I think one of the issues could be the oil points as some seem perfect the ball is on the spring and moves but other oil points seem all crusty and not moving hard to tell if oil is going anywhere.
This is the main center one for the compound slide , It was worse before so used some thin Wd-40 pressuried oil to try and clear it out a little so ball moves around but dosent spring up
Then for the compound slide arrow labeled dial this is the oil point
Then on this one I believe the cross feed slide
That was alot more free and could move it up and down fast with little bother however the oil point does look a bit messed up
Was watching a restoration on youtube and he punchs these out from the inside and replaces them just pressure fit, Im not really looking to strip it all aprt like that so was thinking If i could use some sort of puller to take them out and replace.
This is the main center one for the compound slide , It was worse before so used some thin Wd-40 pressuried oil to try and clear it out a little so ball moves around but dosent spring up
Then for the compound slide arrow labeled dial this is the oil point
Then on this one I believe the cross feed slide
That was alot more free and could move it up and down fast with little bother however the oil point does look a bit messed up
Was watching a restoration on youtube and he punchs these out from the inside and replaces them just pressure fit, Im not really looking to strip it all aprt like that so was thinking If i could use some sort of puller to take them out and replace.
dan.taylor.1
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The last one pictured is pretty easy to get out iirc, just undo the nut holding the dial and handle on and take them off, then the 2 allen bolts and that cast flanged bit comes off the screw. My compound is tight too, will probably be even tighter when I mount the new top half I just got so I can fit a qctp
I am lucky all my nipples are perfect
Hood
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That is the compound slide. On the later Triumphs there is a single setscrew for you nipping it up to lock it. Looks like the earlier ones have a gib there and 4 screws. Loosen the screws then retighten until you just feel pressure whilst sliding and then check there is now movement radially on the slide and you should be good to go.
