daleyd
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- Wrexham, North Wales
It's rc35.Its R 35 and yes it is a structural concrete.
It's rc35.Its R 35 and yes it is a structural concrete.
Is that with limestone instead of pebbles so it wears evenly on scraped yards?It's rc35.
C35 is concrete with a compressive strength of 35 Newton's after 28 days curing.Its R 35 and yes it is a structural concrete.
Yeah, it's a general spec concrete for use with reinforcing bars.Is that with limestone instead of pebbles so it wears evenly on scraped yards?
Edit: just looked it up and its c35 with minimal cement for use with rebar as not to corrode it, apparently!
Thats the concrete sorted thenJust a couple of things, its well worth including a DPM under the concrete and its also worth organising one of those mixermate type batchers when you order the concrete. It will give you plenty of time to lay and finish the concrete, they only charge for what you use and the dont make the same mess when washing out. Its also worth giving some thought to duct entries in the slab, its a lot easier to install a few ducts into the base for cable/waterpipe entries than trying to get them in at a later date. Just thoughts.
Edit: forgot to add float finish rather than tamp, if you spend some time on the float finish you will get away with sealing/painting the surface as is.
Bob
Going for the batch mix option. We have a company 2 miles away that does it. Was contemplating power floating it to finish it, but not sure I'd be capable of that.
3x2 are brutal to work with, you did well removing them all in one shift!!
Are you going to consider any insulation under the floor I am considering an extension to my garage and first thoughts are on a warm floor.
I plan on having some matting of some description at the lathe and workbench areas so I am not standing on the concrete whilst working.
The packs of tiles available in Costco are excellent for that, but don't stand up to 'hot' work......
Otherwise, what about a shallow height duck-board, like the old boys used to use?