Newbie now with TIG.

[Richard.]

I use 2 torch types situation depending.
Wp20 is my go to torch which covers pretty much everything and rated to 320 amps it will cope with anything the magicwave can throw at it and more.
Wp24 this one comes out when the physical size of a wp20 is too big. Rare occasions when that's the case but welding inside small diameter box or tube or even between two tightly positioned tubes.
Not often is there much I can't do with a 20 but on the odd occasions the 24 is a god send. Rated to 180 amps so again it's capable of dealing with 4-5mm aluminium from cold without a sweat.
I don't think you should rush out to buy any torches just yet. A wp18 will get you by and coupled up with some stubby consumable parts it will feel more comfortable. Once you try a 20 out you'll replace it the next day. My personal favourites are the weldtec and weldcraft offerings. Ck are OK also.

 

[dazza]

The torch came with the pump and motor didn't think to ask what torch it was .

 

[dazza]

The motor works not looked at the pump head yet. Should i try and turn it by hand?

 

[Richard.]

The torch came with the pump and motor didn't think to ask what torch it was .

Don't stress about the torch. I saw that advertised and was gonna take the lot myself at that price just to lay my hands on the pump and rebuild it. Use it for now and buy a wp20 at a date when your cooler is running.

 

[Richard.]

The motor works not looked at the pump head yet. Should i try and turn it by hand?

It will easily turn by hand unless it's seized up. You can't hurt it by doing so but it ain't gonna tell you much. You can turn them by hand but it's still probably knackered. The only way to know is spin some juice through it and see what racket it makes and whether it pumps through.

 

[dazza]

It wouldn't be my own choice given it's well overrated for your 200 amp unit. One of the main advantages of water cooling is downsizing your torch.

It will easily turn by hand unless it's seized up. You can't hurt it by doing so but it ain't gonna tell you much. You can turn them by hand but it's still probably knackered. The only way to know is spin some juice through it and see what racket it makes and whether it pumps through.

I've read you can soak them in citric acid to free them up? But i have no citric acid. It turns by hand but not easily.

 

[Richard.]

I've read you can soak them in citric acid to free them up? But i have no citric acid. It turns by hand but not easily.

Freeing it up isn't the issue mate. The graphite vanes are cooked. You can soak it in what you like but that fact won't change. When you say it doesn't turn easy there will be some resistance but a finger and thumb should turn it over. It's not going to spin freely.

 

[dazza]

So it turns but not sure how much resistance there should be. Should i hook it up and run it? Take it apart or try and soak it in something? Can you prime it?

 

[Richard.]

So it turns but not sure how much resistance there should be. Should i hook it up and run it? Take it apart or try and soak it in something? Can you prime it?

Run it with water. You've got nothing to loose. Then strip it if it's goosed.

 

[Hood]

Are you sure that is a Nevoc reg you have as it is only 230bar and the fitting looks different. The Nevoc one I have looks more like the pic Richard posted and it is rated for 300Bar which is the main reason they were brought in as far as I know, ie the higher pressure fill of the new bottles.
Here is mine.

 

[dazza]

I don't think its nevoc then as the fitting on the two regs i have look like this.

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/attachments/20161130_151016_resized-jpg.96275/

 

[dazza]

I got hold of some 1050 aluminium, I cant an arc going. Maybe i ordered the wrong stuff 1050 6082T6 H30??

I tried on my earlier test piece i can get an arc but its popping and spluttering .

 

[Richard.]

Should strike up despite. I'm looking at the pics through a 1 inch square screen so it's hard to see but it's not anodised is it.

 

[Richard.]

Just a shot in the dark here but is that the first time you've struck it up since you've been routing about with its guts?
Try it on some steel (can't see it making a difference) but it should easily strike up on AC and DC on steel no prob. If it doesn't then your machine or set up ain't right.

 

[dazza]

Should strike up despite. I'm looking at the pics through a 1 inch square screen so it's hard to see but it's not anodised is it.

It looks brushed.

Just a shot in the dark here but is that the first time you've struck it up since you've been routing about with its guts?
Try it on some steel (can't see it making a difference) but it should easily strike up on AC and DC on steel no prob. If it doesn't then your machine or set up ain't right.

I've used it on steel since taking it apart and it worked fine. It strikes up on the old bit of scrap ally i had.

 

[dazza]

It strikes up on the scrap bit, but its very sensitive to arc length too much and it will start popping, also when i let off it pops when ramping down. After my last weld the end of the tungsten was purple?? The only thing thats different is i had a a no8 lens last time not a no6.

 

[dazza]

After a bit of trial and error with the settings i managed to get some welds down.

this is at 130a -15 112.5hz something is not right with the ramp down its spluttering. Don't think i've broke it just that the settings are not correct.

 

[dazza]

Thanks for the like Richard feel free to use these in your Alu Tig guide what not to do .

Something is not right,

maybe a bad earth?
Also gas is getting very low.
I changed to the new reg and noticed the argon was leaking at the back of the welder, I had to use the old pipe that came with the welder.

I was at 130amps, 8lm, 2 seconds down slope, 5 seconds post flow (this ok for 4mm).

 

[Richard.]

Well the beginning of your runs show a classic symptom of oxides been transferred across the arc.black soot!!
My guess would be 1 of 2 things.
1 you introduced fill before the pool was fully developed or 2 your arc length/torch angle was too far away.
Could be lack of pre gas also.
You then have an inch of contamination. Could be again caused by fill been introduced pre mature, could be your filler was grubby or you were removing fill from the shied between dabs at the start. The last 3/4 of the run looks clean just lacking consistency. but none of it is telling me the machine is at fault.

 

[DAPPH]

Richard , when aluminium is to be Tigged it has to be immaculately cleaned of all the greasy oxide layer that forms after a few hours of exposure to the air .
I've seen it said that you need to have a dedicated wire brush to do this then wipe it & the filler rod with acetone using a clean cotton cloth before starting to TIG

Questions .
Does the dedicated brush have to be stainless steel or can it be a normal steel wire brush . How & when do you clean the muck off the brushes for surely they will collect plenty of the greasy oxide eventually , do they get dipped in the acetone for a while or are they dipped in boiling water ?

Acetone . I went to a car spares outlet and asked for a tin of acetone recently . He gave me a half litre tin of cellulose thinners .
To me real acetone is used to dissolve nail varnish / plastics & smells of pear drops . Which acetone should it be ?