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High level steps are roughly:
- Assemble printer
- Buy printer consumables - PLA filament
- Install software that comes with printer
- Download a model stl file, for example from thingiverse
- Configure size and how solid (10% fill is my nibbler holder, so mostly hollow inside, 100% = solid)
- Export that to a Gcode file onto a memory stick (micro SD and adapter came with A8)
- Put memory card in printer
- Select and print the thing.
With the Anet A8 I found certain numbers for shell thickness etc gave me much quicker prints
Depends a bit what you are buying.
If you are PC literate to the level of installing normal printers and software, and either buy one assembled or like the Anet A8 kit I found the assembly guide PDF a bit hard work but following the guy doing it on you tube, watch a bit then pause while doing, easy.
I hadn't done tech drawing since O level and never CAD so watched a few tutorials. Took a while to get into it and I keep getting better. Drawing is the hard bit
Well was thinking of going with the anet a8 as seems like yourself and others have had good experience with them. Assembly is no issue as built multiple kits before.
Done some cad work but would like to actually see it be manufactured and can see that getting me interested in doing more.
Yup easy and good kit
Bear in mind those heat bed connector issues in the two outside wires that I hard soldered.
Thing for me is I would recommend it in so much as it works well and I chose mine based on mate's research. I've had it a year so the market place may have changed is my only reservation. A twinhead with dissolvable support capability could be a huge step forward, though not for the stuff I do, some was practical, some for learning.
Bear in mind those heat bed connector issues in the two outside wires that I hard soldered.
Thing for me is I would recommend it in so much as it works well and I chose mine based on mate's research. I've had it a year so the market place may have changed is my only reservation. A twinhead with dissolvable support capability could be a huge step forward, though not for the stuff I do, some was practical, some for learning.
bigegg
Scream Not Working Because Space Make Deaf
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Sold my shogun this morning so have a bit of spare cash, and guess what turned up on a local farcebutt group?
2nd hand Anet a8.
Already heavily upgraded - titan extruder, Bowden feed, frame strengtheners, MOSFETs, and 8 rolls of filament.
5 miles away, and £70.
Nearly took his arm off with it.
2nd hand Anet a8.
Already heavily upgraded - titan extruder, Bowden feed, frame strengtheners, MOSFETs, and 8 rolls of filament.
5 miles away, and £70.
Nearly took his arm off with it.
Have a look at Octoprint, I've got it on a RaspberryPi that the printer is plugged into, after step 5, I send the gcode via WiFi to the RaspberryPi and then if I want I can turn off my PC and leave Octoprint & the 3d printer to do it's stuff. It's really handy if you have something that is gonna take loads of hours to print.
One of the really cool features if you've got a camera/webcam is you can make timelapse videos of your item as it prints really easily, or you can logon to Octoprint and view the camera feed directly so you can stick the printer in the spare room so you don't have to listen to it for hours but can still keep an eye on it as it works.
What you going to print first?
bigegg
Scream Not Working Because Space Make Deaf
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A benchy.
Then, i have been working on a studley style tool chest on and off for last 6 years - I have a lot of tool holder designs on fusion and inventor all ready to print.
That will be the main thing for next couple of months - I'm still trying to get a usable workspace, so tool storage is paramount.
bigegg
Scream Not Working Because Space Make Deaf
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I just got a new motherboard, CPU and graphics card, so fusion/inventor is now usable again.
Went from a dual core 3ghz with 4gb ram + onboard graphics to a 4ghz 8-core, 16gb ram and an r9-270 4gb GPU.
Solitaire runs FAST.
Went from a dual core 3ghz with 4gb ram + onboard graphics to a 4ghz 8-core, 16gb ram and an r9-270 4gb GPU.
Solitaire runs FAST.
AndersK
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I'll second that....what a mess those crescent chips make and they get EVERYWHERE!
Use that 3D printer and make a part to collect the chips with a vacuum cleaner
slim_boy_fat
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Is that spanner 38mm to fit the oil filter housing lid? If so, would you be prepared to do one for me and what would you want for it price-wise?
It'd save dragging out the 3/4" socket set when the change is due, although co-incidentally I just did it earlier this week.
EDIT: Just had another look at the pic & I realise it's for the filler cap, because yours in more difficult to get at than mine. In which case, please ignore the question(s).......
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One side is for the oil and one side is for the rad cap because my wife struggles to undo them to check her oilIs that spanner 38mm to fit the oil filter housing lid? If so, would you be prepared to do one for me and what would you want for it price-wise?
It'd save dragging out the 3/4" socket set when the change is due, although co-incidentally I just did it earlier this week.
EDIT: Just had another look at the pic & I realise it's for the filler cap, because yours in more difficult to get at than mine. In which case, please ignore the question(s).......
The funnel is just because these are a beggar to pour oil in without spilling for anyone.
The thing you are after is one of these?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1480117
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2300861
Second takes a lot less material
slim_boy_fat
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Thanks. Yes the coolant cap can be a pig to remove [it's very tight
], even for me, so your wife has my sympathy. However, my oil filler one is further forward - more where your cap is resting, so no problem with access. Which model is yours/hers?The one in your second link would be the more useful, as the first looks like it still needs the big socket.
