slim_boy_fat
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slim_boy_fat
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 29,540
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
slim_boy_fat
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 29,540
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
slim_boy_fat
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 29,540
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
Yes, I'd probably agree. It gets very tight once the 'O' ring is compressed to complete the seal - plus there's not a not of room around the bottom of the cap.
Can I ask you to do 2 of the smaller one shown in post #86 [I'll keep one in the car] and let me know how much I owe you in total inc p&p?
The 14 sides is 10mm thick
The smaller with the wider outer radius?
Can do
Probably be free or drop something in the next cancer charity box you pass.
I can try them on the spare housing here
slim_boy_fat
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Aye, that's the one.
At 10mm thick the large 95mm one should handle the torque, can I be cheeky and ask for one of each?
I'll PM my details and there's absolutely no hurry for them as I just serviced the car last week.I'll do the MacMillan Cancer one if that's OK, I've been on the receiving end of their care myself and think they do great work.
Really appreciated, just demonstrates once again [if proof were needed] what I great community this is.
OK so it fits. Not sure it is strong enough as in it may want another 50mm handle length and making 1cm thick instead of 5mm.
Of course go to 15mm thick and make the top filled in and it would add something to integrity.
I can't get enough leverage with the housing off a car to either break the spanner or undo the cover, so I'll send you this one to play with. Now these plastic caps on the engine are known to break...……… no liability accepted .
I'll probably lengthen the handles for next ones and big one
Of course go to 15mm thick and make the top filled in and it would add something to integrity.
I can't get enough leverage with the housing off a car to either break the spanner or undo the cover, so I'll send you this one to play with. Now these plastic caps on the engine are known to break...……… no liability accepted .
I'll probably lengthen the handles for next ones and big one
PhillipM
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Wouldn't be a bad idea to put a small half circle in the corners either to reduce stress concentration, the same as spanners and wall-drive sockets, will stop it cracking suddenly from a corner. Bad photo but some I did a year or two back for shock absorbers (so they wouldn't scratch the anodising):
They're in PET-G rather than PLA as it tends to flex rather than snap suddenly, but you can see the small reliefs in the corners - those alone get you up to ~25% more torque before failure than a straight hex does, convex instead of straight walls helps further.
They're in PET-G rather than PLA as it tends to flex rather than snap suddenly, but you can see the small reliefs in the corners - those alone get you up to ~25% more torque before failure than a straight hex does, convex instead of straight walls helps further.
This will do. It does flex on the corners of the lid but smooth constant pressure rising, as opposed to a brutal snatch which would maybe break it, it loosened this that has not been undone in quite a few years
Now down to the mistakes:
Now down to the mistakes:
- Because this was printed at 45 degrees to fit on the print head I think it having holes in the handle made it take longer and this would not have been the case if printed square. But without holes it would have saved 8 minutes.
- Additionally the hole at the end of the handle is too big and lead to there being no material to stick the end of the handle to the bed so it curled and raised slightly as it cooled resulting in the head eventually dragging on the handle when printing so the finish on the top is poor. Not the printers fault, I drew it that way and didn't use a brim.
