James1979
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- Thread starter James1979
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mtt.tr
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We don't.
All cordless or what we can run on 1500w inverter. Proper pain in the ****.
Not my problem end of this month
hotponyshoes
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Have a look at the vw touareg, I had one and that had a hose under the drivers seat you could pull out.
Never really played with it but that ran from the on board air suspension
Never really played with it but that ran from the on board air suspension
Shox Dr
Chief Engineer to Carlos Fandango
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Quick look on eblag turns up new units less than £200
sako243
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I've only skimmed through the posts quickly as I've only just sat down for some lunch after being at a job looking at a press brake all morning but I do have first hand experience.
Right onto the meat of what I had and why I got rid of it.
Base vehicle was a 300Tdi engined 110 so factory option for a Denso air-con compressor with standard parts, just needed a tensioner, casting to mount it and the compressor itself. The compressor was one of those swash plate style ones and is as someone mentioned lubricated by the refrigerant they pump around. The "york" compressors have an oil sump and are piston based I think so don't need lubricant to be physically pumped around. Basically you need some fittings, I used a piece of an welly as a gasket and drilled a thick plate to take some push-fit 10mm bore airline fittings. That solved mating up to the pump side of things. In terms of controlling it it has an electromagnetic clutch - give it 12V and it's engaged, take 12V away and pump doesn't even spin, obviously for a compressor you need the ability to switch it on and off at a suitable pressure, for this I stole a regulator / switch / pressure relief assembly from a defunct compressor. Although normally mains operated the solenoids will usually run off 12VDC as well just at a different current - mine did. So I had a switch in the dash to turn on power to the compressor switch assembly, that then switched that on and off as required based on pressure in the system. Note you should probably make this an ignition live / running live as otherwise you'll just flatten the battery if you accidentally switch it on. For the input side of things there was an air-filter and a little inline oiler like used on air tools, this did need checking reasonably often. After the compressor was a one-way valve (essential in this style of pump) and then an oil catch, others have installed copper loops for cooling the air etc., I didn't bother and I didn't find it an issue. This then fed another regulator (set at 90psi for the lockers) and then an unregulated system for an air coupling in the boot as well as a 4 gallon tank tucked up behind the rear wheel. Nicked from a mates P38 and it was a perfect fit. The input side of the setup was 10mm airline and the output 6mm because the diffs used that as did the P38 tank and it saved a lot of swapping of things over.
In terms of performance - at idle it would quite happily keep my R-Tech P50HF plasma cutter going with no issues at all, in fact you could hear the Defender coming on and off-load as the compressor kicked in. It would fill my 265/75R16 tyres on the Defender in under a minute (with tank pre-charged), I pulled the valve on one in France when I got some wood stuck between the bead and the tyre so we let all the air out and a friend jumped up an down on the flat tyres so I could see if I could get all the wood out.
At the moment I have a twin ARB compressor under the backseat filling the same setup (although I think one of the compressors is not working). The reason I swapped was that I hadn't found a decent / cheap oil trap that survived under the bonnet in the Defender. It seemed to be massive workshop dryer setups or cheap £2.50 china specials. I tried a couple of those and they all eventually shattered when under pressure - I suspect the heat cycling under the bonnet, vibration etc., weakened the plastic. After the second one failed I ditched the inline oiler and the trap and that was fine to be honest, just don't leave the compressor running for a long period otherwise the thing was liable to seize - but it could quite happily fill up the air tank and run for a minute or two with no side effects. The reason I switched was I needed to use the plasma and the builders had blocked access to my compressor so I brought the Defender around. I got so involved in using the plasma I forgot to give the pump a chance to cool down so after about 20 minutes of cutting with the plasma the compressor seized. I've actually stripped it and it's not badly damaged - in fact now spins over but is a bit rough feeling so need to sit down with some emery paper and polish the pistons up a bit smoother. I'm also planning on doing an engine swap in the near future / possibly looking into installing air-con so short notice needed for a trip it was simpler to install an ARB twin compressor.
I'm not massively sold on them - they're damn noisy and thought they'd be more powerful, I'd be more inclined to use the air-suspension pump from an L322 instead.
Cost wise the whole set up was <£100 - I think the first pump* was ~£30, cast ali bracket for mounting it £25, tensioner £15, tank was free, and I think the vast majority of the cost was in buying a load of fittings and airlines (which I still have most of sat on a shelf).
*I overheated two, one the dog accidentally switched on on a drive to Scotland and it has a small air leak so over the course of 13h the compressor kept kicking in and out without me realising.
Correction, had...
There is if it's an L322 - it's a long cylindrical one tucked up under the drivers side (I think). Only a few inches in diameter but most of the length of the car. Probably under a minute or so for the compressor to lift up the vehicle from flat to full off-road height but the bags do run at a reasonable pressure I think. At least will sustain it because of hitting bumps etc.
I wouldn't consider the output to be low... My setup would out perform my workshop compressor (4.5hp compressor with 250l receiver) and it only had an 18 litre tank with it, and that was with the Land Rover idling.
Right onto the meat of what I had and why I got rid of it.
Base vehicle was a 300Tdi engined 110 so factory option for a Denso air-con compressor with standard parts, just needed a tensioner, casting to mount it and the compressor itself. The compressor was one of those swash plate style ones and is as someone mentioned lubricated by the refrigerant they pump around. The "york" compressors have an oil sump and are piston based I think so don't need lubricant to be physically pumped around. Basically you need some fittings, I used a piece of an welly as a gasket and drilled a thick plate to take some push-fit 10mm bore airline fittings. That solved mating up to the pump side of things. In terms of controlling it it has an electromagnetic clutch - give it 12V and it's engaged, take 12V away and pump doesn't even spin, obviously for a compressor you need the ability to switch it on and off at a suitable pressure, for this I stole a regulator / switch / pressure relief assembly from a defunct compressor. Although normally mains operated the solenoids will usually run off 12VDC as well just at a different current - mine did. So I had a switch in the dash to turn on power to the compressor switch assembly, that then switched that on and off as required based on pressure in the system. Note you should probably make this an ignition live / running live as otherwise you'll just flatten the battery if you accidentally switch it on. For the input side of things there was an air-filter and a little inline oiler like used on air tools, this did need checking reasonably often. After the compressor was a one-way valve (essential in this style of pump) and then an oil catch, others have installed copper loops for cooling the air etc., I didn't bother and I didn't find it an issue. This then fed another regulator (set at 90psi for the lockers) and then an unregulated system for an air coupling in the boot as well as a 4 gallon tank tucked up behind the rear wheel. Nicked from a mates P38 and it was a perfect fit. The input side of the setup was 10mm airline and the output 6mm because the diffs used that as did the P38 tank and it saved a lot of swapping of things over.
In terms of performance - at idle it would quite happily keep my R-Tech P50HF plasma cutter going with no issues at all, in fact you could hear the Defender coming on and off-load as the compressor kicked in. It would fill my 265/75R16 tyres on the Defender in under a minute (with tank pre-charged), I pulled the valve on one in France when I got some wood stuck between the bead and the tyre so we let all the air out and a friend jumped up an down on the flat tyres so I could see if I could get all the wood out.
At the moment I have a twin ARB compressor under the backseat filling the same setup (although I think one of the compressors is not working). The reason I swapped was that I hadn't found a decent / cheap oil trap that survived under the bonnet in the Defender. It seemed to be massive workshop dryer setups or cheap £2.50 china specials. I tried a couple of those and they all eventually shattered when under pressure - I suspect the heat cycling under the bonnet, vibration etc., weakened the plastic. After the second one failed I ditched the inline oiler and the trap and that was fine to be honest, just don't leave the compressor running for a long period otherwise the thing was liable to seize - but it could quite happily fill up the air tank and run for a minute or two with no side effects. The reason I switched was I needed to use the plasma and the builders had blocked access to my compressor so I brought the Defender around. I got so involved in using the plasma I forgot to give the pump a chance to cool down so after about 20 minutes of cutting with the plasma the compressor seized. I've actually stripped it and it's not badly damaged - in fact now spins over but is a bit rough feeling so need to sit down with some emery paper and polish the pistons up a bit smoother. I'm also planning on doing an engine swap in the near future / possibly looking into installing air-con so short notice needed for a trip it was simpler to install an ARB twin compressor.
I'm not massively sold on them - they're damn noisy and thought they'd be more powerful, I'd be more inclined to use the air-suspension pump from an L322 instead.
Cost wise the whole set up was <£100 - I think the first pump* was ~£30, cast ali bracket for mounting it £25, tensioner £15, tank was free, and I think the vast majority of the cost was in buying a load of fittings and airlines (which I still have most of sat on a shelf).
*I overheated two, one the dog accidentally switched on on a drive to Scotland and it has a small air leak so over the course of 13h the compressor kept kicking in and out without me realising.
CompoSimmonite
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I've seen people making tubular bumpers as air tanks.I you might not like thisWhen I built a LR90 I wanted on board Air. I was going to use a RangeRover Air con unit. But then... it was suggested to use a Pub CO2 bottle. Plenty of air(Nitrogen) wont flat your battery takes up little space, and is instant.
Sorted!
Couple of second hand winton compressor kits on eBay ATM.
Beyond that instead of an ac pump can you not find a compact air break compressor off a lorry. No duty cycle and will pump a tyre up from flat without a significant tank. Tractors don't have a proper tank on there air system, run the same compressor and provide a lot of air. Can easily pump up any tyre you throw at it
Beyond that instead of an ac pump can you not find a compact air break compressor off a lorry. No duty cycle and will pump a tyre up from flat without a significant tank. Tractors don't have a proper tank on there air system, run the same compressor and provide a lot of air. Can easily pump up any tyre you throw at it
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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Sorry, not read all three pages, a 7.5 ton lorry air brakes compressor, and tanks, jumps to mind.
most truck compressors are gear driven off the timing gears and take an oil feed. the only belt drive i can remember were gardner ones.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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I've a Dahl one off a Detroit Diesel, somewhere.
Coach air compressors run on belts IME.
I'm not talking modern vehicles, and yes agree on the oil feed comment.
Tractors use the same pumps and are belt driven.
Erie Fred
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I also something similar up in our grape country, I wonder if you could adapt :
finyuk2005
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that would be interesting in a crash!!
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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Pop, pssst.
sako243
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I know someone who made their roll cage on a Jimney an air tank for lockers.
truckdoctor
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Rat Rot Bob has used his aircon compressor for an airbag system and explains all about oil in the system.
James1979
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Basically, yeah. You’re right.
I can’t find a small petrol compressor at all, let alone at a sensible price. I don’t have the space or the weight available for a big one. Don’t need a big one either, really.
It’s a pain in the ****. Pretty much the only thing I need one for is blowing up tyres and blowing out filters. There is nothing else I would use one for out and about.
Thing is, those two things are quite handy functions if you fix **** for a living!!!
