Pipe Radiator ????

[gaz1]

this one uses a rocket stove and a 2 pipe system against the wall but in time to come the heat and rust rotted away the metal

best not to use galvanised pipe but you can roll it yourself in 1.5mm or 2mm steel then it needs heat proof paint on it

 

[jordhandson]

you will get about 150 watts per metre out of 11/2" pipe (very) roughly

is that good or bad

 

[jordhandson]

this one uses a rocket stove and a 2 pipe system against the wall but in time to come the heat and rust rotted away the metal

best not to use galvanised pipe but you can roll it yourself in 1.5mm or 2mm steel then it needs heat proof paint on it

Cheers Gaz do you mean dont use gal pipe for the rad

 

[jordhandson]

you will get about 150 watts per metre out of 11/2" pipe (very) roughly

Just done a quick ad up, the pipe im thinking roughly 20 feet say 6 metres x 4 that equates to 3600 wats x 2 of one ech side of the green house = 7200 is that good cheers numbers baffle me lo

 

[JimmyS]

only thing is your burner will probably be putting out more than that so the boiler may start kettling and boiling over. You might be better heating up a decent amount of water in a tank (if you have something suitable to hand) using a fixed amount of fuel and drawing the hot water off with a pump to heat the greenhouse. If you do it that way then you would hopefully be able to stop it from boiling over . Once you figure out how much oil to burn to heat the tank to a reasonable level it should be ok. I dont know what your burner will do heat wise but probably a lot more than 7 or 8 kW but I could easily be wrong.

 

[addjunkie]

Compost bins can be used to slightly heat a green house!

 

[gaz1]

your not thinking of cycling up and down that boilers use

yes it would need the heat right at the start but after that you would need to consider its on off cycle phase

with a rocket stove flue temps are different 300f normal stove temps are much higher 400-500f and higher

this video shows temps in a twinpipe system

the highest temp being at the burner end flue return end

 

[jordhandson]

Compost bins can be used to slightly heat a green house!

Ive never done anything “slightly” mind you it has bitten me now and again lol

 

[gaz1]

tech has come along way nowadays even with masonary heaters

if you take a look at this build

I believe that my fathers greenhouse heater was run on this sort of design sorry i cant ask him hes not around anymore

i remember it as one part was brick built whilst the other was wood and glass built

 

[jordhandson]

tech has come along way nowadays even with masonary heaters

if you take a look at this build

I believe that my fathers greenhouse heater was run on this sort of design sorry i cant ask him hes not around anymore

i remember it as one part was brick built whilst the other was wood and glass built

Now that looks expensive nice though

 

[DennisCA]

Pipe radiators, that's how we used to heat the greenhouses too, fed of a few large boilers.

 

[gaz1]

Now that looks expensive nice though

depends on what your using

if you build a brick type version same thing size can be reduced by using concrete but certain places must have a protective backing

as goes for into a piping system dont have to use cast iron you can use 4-5 tubes as long as they match the output flow

steam trains use piping method



the main part is the burner that will take the brunt of the heat after that you can use thinner pipes just not galvanised pipes

 

[gaz1]

Pipe radiators, that's how we used to heat the greenhouses too, fed of a few large boilers.

you also use a masonary heater as well

 

[DennisCA]

you also use a masonary heater as well

For my house only afaik. I got some ideas for the future on a small greenhouse. This here was a commercial operation.

 

[KemppiFrog]

Steam trains were not very efficient, but OK for the time. Now, the problem is energy source and how to get the best use out of it. Glass houses are not too well insulated, so heat loss is a quite high. Oil is now bad news, so how are they going to get by? Heat pumps for them will be huge and the alternative of biofuel, soon to be our only choice, if out of town, might be priced a touch high.
Instalation of new oil boilers is being stopped at July 1st this year about here. I suspect there might be some 'unrest' from the people who feel left out in the sticks.
Installation of heat pumps is only by 'approved' people, so prices are way above UK. I think the 'worry' is that privateers might leak some gas to the environment, so keep it with people who know how to charge.

 

[jordhandson]

Haven't got much done this afternoon I did get the stand done, at first I made a bit of a cockerel up l had it all tacked up then turned the thing over only to find I had not made the stand tall enough to get the burner pan off,



I quickly added some 50m blocks to the base oops.



I did make handle and a locking pin on the burner pot. I cant fire it up until I have a tank for water, I have a couple blanking plates to make and a chimney outlet and then that's it on this for a while.

I do have a question though how high above the vented tank does the cold water tank need to be, as if its to high it could mean a spanner in the idea.

 

[addjunkie]

depends on what your using

if you build a brick type version same thing size can be reduced by using concrete but certain places must have a protective backing

as goes for into a piping system dont have to use cast iron you can use 4-5 tubes as long as they match the output flow

steam trains use piping method

View attachment 327398

the main part is the burner that will take the brunt of the heat after that you can use thinner pipes just not galvanised pipes

Its a fire tube boiler. Tubes surrounded by water, hot gas goes through the tubes. More modern boilers are the other way round with the water going through the tubes, bigger surface area, far more efficient.

 

[JimmyS]

The feed and exp tank shouldn't need to be that high above the boiler. Where the cold feed goes is called the neutral point and probably best just before the boiler and the open vent placed just after it but no valves in between boiler and open vent. The water level in the tank will vary a little bit with the water expanding as it heats and also from the pump. You would just be looking at a domestic pump running at low speed I'd recon so its not going to cause much change in water level. You would be better putting your pump on the return and pump back towards the boiler as it will not get as hot. I would think 3 foot or so would do above boiler to water level in the tank. I would just be careful as I think its likely to boil over pretty quick and you would be better maybe heating a tank of water and pumping from the vessel to your pipe radiator.

 

[jordhandson]

The feed and exp tank shouldn't need to be that high above the boiler. Where the cold feed goes is called the neutral point and probably best just before the boiler and the open vent placed just after it but no valves in between boiler and open vent. The water level in the tank will vary a little bit with the water expanding as it heats and also from the pump. You would just be looking at a domestic pump running at low speed I'd recon so its not going to cause much change in water level. You would be better putting your pump on the return and pump back towards the boiler as it will not get as hot. I would think 3 foot or so would do above boiler to water level in the tank. I would just be careful as I think its likely to boil over pretty quick and you would be better maybe heating a tank of water and pumping from the vessel to your pipe radiator.

Cheers Jimmy I get it, thanks if this works I have a few other places I could use the heated water that way it will help stopping the boiling. If this burner works as well as my old one i wont have it boiling as its quite controllable. Also while your here there are a number of inlets and outlets on the boiler i was thinking capping them all off and just using these ones one the side the lowest one for return and the highest one for the outlet,



does that sound ok.

 

[JimmyS]

It sounds ok, great if you can get some control over the burner. Stick the open vent right at the high point so if you do get any kettling its going straight to the F&E tank no valves between open vent and boiler. Also dont use an F&E tank that can melt, that much boiling water is v. dangerous. Are the connections about 1"BSP there?