Pipe Radiator ????

[gaz1]

The feed and exp tank shouldn't need to be that high above the boiler. Where the cold feed goes is called the neutral point and probably best just before the boiler and the open vent placed just after it but no valves in between boiler and open vent. The water level in the tank will vary a little bit with the water expanding as it heats and also from the pump. You would just be looking at a domestic pump running at low speed I'd recon so its not going to cause much change in water level. You would be better putting your pump on the return and pump back towards the boiler as it will not get as hot. I would think 3 foot or so would do above boiler to water level in the tank. I would just be careful as I think its likely to boil over pretty quick and you would be better maybe heating a tank of water and pumping from the vessel to your pipe radiator.

have you ever un frozen a hot water central heating tank there bad enough in lofts but its in a greenhouse

remember the boilers stopping working due to the valve pipe being frozen on the outside

both are the same thing

even alotments have frozen protection for there pipes but greenhouses are really bad for it

ive had to deal with frozen pipes in houses and factorys even with protection theyve still frozen

 

[JimmyS]

Yes frozen pipes etc are a pain in backside. Luckily I never had to thaw a F&E tank though - is the whole boiler going in the greenhouse? I would stick some anti-freeze in the circuit to try and limit freezing. Bigger the pipes the less of an issue but will still freeze given half a chance. Other thing if the boiler is going in the greenhouse is it will need air for combustion.

 

[jordhandson]

It sounds ok, great if you can get some control over the burner. Stick the open vent right at the high point so if you do get any kettling its going straight to the F&E tank no valves between open vent and boiler. Also dont use an F&E tank that can melt, that much boiling water is v. dangerous. Are the connections about 1"BSP there?

T hats great Jimmy I was thinking of using an old galvanized for the water header tank, at a guess I would say yes they are 1"bsp

 

[jordhandson]

Yes frozen pipes etc are a pain in backside. Luckily I never had to thaw a F&E tank though - is the whole boiler going in the greenhouse? I would stick some anti-freeze in the circuit to try and limit freezing. Bigger the pipes the less of an issue but will still freeze given half a chance. Other thing if the boiler is going in the greenhouse is it will need air for combustion.

No no the boiler and tank is going to be fitted inside a redundant metal central heating oil tank I have a big one spare. I intend stand it on one end so its at its tallest and cut one side out and make a door so as I can lock it and can light and monitor the burner, the metal container will have bearers under so I can move it about with the forklift. I intend to position it away from any structures or greenhouse for safety and just pipe in the hot water through lagged pipes.

What do you think

 

[JimmyS]

It should be ok - will need a vent so get air in to allow oil to burn ok. Might not need much lagging as its going to generate a fair bit of heat and it can freeze whether lagged or not I would put some antifreeze in as well. You might find some internal stiffeners in the oil tank that need to come out? - I think I had to take these out on our old tank here when I cut it up but could be wrong.

 

[jordhandson]

It should be ok - will need a vent so get air in to allow oil to burn ok. Might not need much lagging as its going to generate a fair bit of heat and it can freeze whether lagged or not I would put some antifreeze in as well. You might find some internal stiffeners in the oil tank that need to come out? - I think I had to take these out on our old tank here when I cut it up but could be wrong.

Yeh Jimmy Ive openened up a few tanks and had a few let say hairy moments lol.they normally have some stuff to cut out inside. Was thinking of putting in some air draw vents. good point on the lagging it may not need it. I fitted a deeper burner pot than most I see on the utube as on the one I have now the pots almost 5 inches deep I can almost fill it with oil then close off the supply and I can if not running it to hard get almos 4 hours out of it before it needs more oil. I intende to do something like that overnight.

 

[jordhandson]

It should be ok - will need a vent so get air in to allow oil to burn ok. Might not need much lagging as its going to generate a fair bit of heat and it can freeze whether lagged or not I would put some antifreeze in as well. You might find some internal stiffeners in the oil tank that need to come out? - I think I had to take these out on our old tank here when I cut it up but could be wrong.

good Idea on the antifreeze

 

[addjunkie]

What about the 100 quid chinese diesel heater, ducting the air round under your plants

 

[jordhandson]

What about the 100 quid chinese diesel heater, ducting the air round under your plants

i dont get free diesel

 

[gaz1]

a couple of questions here

are you wanting to continually use this in winter time for the greenhouse

how bad does your system soot up and when does it need cleaning

how often do you need to clean it

from my watching the ozirt can give a high output of heat even in a low setting can you give any idea on its heat output

 

[JimmyS]

I was wondering as well what the heat output would be. I suppose you could make a guess based on amount of oil and how long it would take to run out and guess how efficient it is ? maybe 50% dunno.

 

[gaz1]

i think it depends on how its built

i would be worried with the wear on the top plate

noticed the sooting up of the unit

poor clean out of the soot also the soot will settle on top of the coil

 

[jordhandson]

I got the chimney outlet done this afternoon and a couple of blanking plates one on the front where to old burner went in and one on the rear where the flue plate was missing, apart from a couple of blanking plugs two 1/2bsp and one 22mm the boiler part is more or less completed.



I haven't fitted the baffles back inside yet as will test first to see if there enough draw for the fire. I may have to make the holes in the baffles slightly larger.

I did sort out a couple of fitting for the water inlet and out let. I can confirm they are 1”bsp female inlets. Now I could come of these with 1”bsp water pipe or I could as is the bottom one come use 22mm copper.



My thinking the 22mm is easier to work with but would the flow and return be better on 1”, or should I wait and see what the tank size is first. I think I just answered my own question lol.

 

[jordhandson]

a couple of questions here

are you wanting to continually use this in winter time for the greenhouse

how bad does your system soot up and when does it need cleaning

how often do you need to clean it

from my watching the ozirt can give a high output of heat even in a low setting can you give any idea on its heat output

are you wanting to continually use this in winter time for the greenhouse = Yes
how bad does your system soot up and when does it need cleaning = I clean the one I have now every autum before needing it in the winter,
how often do you need to clean it= I only clean it once a year if, I run it hard when its freezing outside I find it must burn any soot off
from my watching the ozirt can give a high output of heat even in a low setting can you give any idea on its heat output = i have no idea but its hot hot hot, to give you an idea my shop is 7.5m x 11m 4.6mhigh with no insulation and when its frezzing I mean after a hard frost I have had the temp inside about 82. but that was just and experiment to see how high I could get it normal temp is 65 ish farenhight.

I forgot to mention when I built my heater I used a 50 gallon drum and I fitter two baffles inside and on the rear of the heater cage there is a fan blowing air over or around the drum to move the air round the place. this picture was after about 20 mins running it hard the heat on the drum ie red part is at the first baffle. Its been runniong for approx 6-7 years now and I will need to make another drum for next year as I can now see a couple of pin holes starting to apear in the side of the 50 gallon drum.

 

[JimmyS]

I would guess maybe 15kw or so output?

22mm flow and return would prob be ok. Maybe stick a tee with a 3/4" branch and end onto that barrel nipple at the top for your open vent and flow. Then a couple of Yorkshire Kuterlite 911 3/4"BSP male to 22mm compression adapters and come off in copper. You would want a bit of copper before thinking of adapting to anything else I'd think with the heat and the possibility it might boil.

 

[jordhandson]

I would guess maybe 15kw or so output?

22mm flow and return would prob be ok. Maybe stick a tee with a 3/4" branch and end onto that barrel nipple at the top for your open vent and flow. Then a couple of Yorkshire Kuterlite 911 3/4"BSP male to 22mm compression adapters and come off in copper. You would want a bit of copper before thinking of adapting to anything else I'd think with the heat and the possibility it might boil.

Cheers Jimmy I shall now go and decipher what you've just said LOL

 

[jordhandson]

Jimmy I understand I think I saw something like that Yorkshire Kuterlite 9 thingy earlier today basicaly your saying get from the 1" down to 22mm in copper!! Yes

 

[JimmyS]

Yes its the number for a yorkshire adapter you will get one with a 3/4" BSP male end and a 22mm compression end. and Just get a Malleable Iron Tee with a 1"BSP end with the other end and branch reduced to 3/4" BSP.

 

[JimmyS]

Kuterlite 911 22mm X 3/4 Inch Mi Coupling : Pegler Yorkshire

Buy Kuterlite 911 22mm X 3/4 Inch Mi Coupling - £9.03 UK and Worldwide delivery. Pegler Yorkshire Part number 43059K. Service you would expect from a trusted UK company.

www.mytub.co.uk

and a MI tee reducing to 3/4" on one end and the branch or a 1" BSP equal tee and a couple of hex bushes and just bush down to 3/4". If you haven't got something then you will prob have a BSS or Pipeline Center nearby will have something that would suit.

 

[gaz1]

no

Brass Compression BSP Female Straight Adapter - ValvesTubesFittings

Brass compression x female BSPP threaded straight adapter to BS EN 1254-2. PN25 pressure rated, WRAS approved for potable water. Used with EN 1057 copper tube

www.valvestubesfittings.com

then

Wednesbury Copper Pipe 28mm x 3m - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Table X. Half hard. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

better to keep your bsp fittings if your going to cast piping