Plasterboarding a ceiling.

[brightspark]

No offence me ole china,but save yourself a lot of grief,heart ache and stress and get a good spread in.
I've ripped 100's of ceilings walls etc boarded them out the lot even built up the areas with bonding,but when it comes to skimming a finish like a babies backside thats where the pros come in,i step back

practice makes perfect. after 45 years I do all my own . I sometimes do it for good customers if I feel like it and just re plastered most of the daughters house .

 

[gaz1]

Probably.
Never tried


I did an alcove in my old house - was easier than I was ledto believe.
I've done a fair amount of rendering .

doing an alcove is one thing doing the ceiling is another matter doing a double slope on a ceiling is fun i can assure you of that one

he can use roof laths on ceiling and drop it by 3/4" or an 1" then screw boards to them but thats his choice

 

[bigegg]

No offence me ole china,but save yourself a lot of grief,heart ache and stress and get a good spread in.
I've ripped 100's of ceilings walls etc boarded them out the lot even built up the areas with bonding,but when it comes to skimming a finish like a babies backside thats where the pros come in,i step back

Believe me - I want to!

I wanted to strip the wallpaper, fill a couple of drawing pin holes, and paint with a sand filled masonry paint
Not gonna happen now!

Ceiling is about 3m square
I have a budget of perhaps £150 - I have a LOT of 6mm ply, a fair amount of 3x1 PSE, some scaffold boards, a bag of thistle multifinish, 10l of trade emulsion, 3 sheets of 0.8mm galv (8x4) and 5l of Jotun conseal touch up in white.

I can afford some CLS.
I can afford plaster board and scrim.

I have mum back on Friday and it HAS to be done.

Help?

 

[julianf]

Don't some people just get fetheredge and skim the joints only?

I can't believe the finish is all that, but it would be cheap (in plaster) and an easy diy job.

 

[julianf]

PS.
I've been calling round for plaster board just last week. Builders yards were quoting 7 ish per sheet, ex vat. Its 6 a sheet inc if you walk in to wicks!

Travis did match wicks and will deliver for free.

 

[gaz1]

bigegg are you wanting a hand to get it done ?

as your only down rd from me to a degree

 

[brightspark]

PS.
I've been calling round for plaster board just last week. Builders yards were quoting 7 ish per sheet, ex vat. Its 6 a sheet inc if you walk in to wicks!

Travis did match wicks and will deliver for free.

most wholesalers take the pee when your not a regular punter and u have to negotiate your discount rates they try it on

 

[bigegg]

bigegg are you wanting a hand to get it done ?

as your only down rd from me to a degree

Thanks for the offer - I'm capable of the work, just trying to find cheapest/best way.

 

[Shedendman]

practice makes perfect. after 45 years I do all my own . I sometimes do it for good customers if I feel like it and just re plastered most of the daughters house .

Me and the trowel were never good friends

 

[dannyp]

still got my marshalltown trowels long time since i've used them now , last time i tryed to do any plastering it nearly killed me, mixed up 2 1/2 bags and started chucking it on with 18" trowel had to drop to 14" almost straight away and it was going off before id gone round the outside of the room

used to regualy mix 2 1/2 bags of multifinish up chuck ceilings on first coat with 18" quick walk round round with a 21" trowel wack another coat over with the same mix if a small celing walk it again with the 21" have a cup of tea then finish it up and it seemed easy

 

[Olderisbetter]

I use more feather edge and tape system now normally to save time and money, I use gyproc ready mixed joint filler it takes some getting use to but its also great for decorating when you need to fill slight gaps or out of shape walls.
http://www.diy.com/departments/gyproc-ready-mix-joint-cement-12l/35734_BQ.prd

 

[reb78]

Dad just did it the old way and plastered an undercoat back onto/into the lathes and then skimmed with a top coat. He got a very neat finish considering he's an accountant!

 

[fixerupper]

If you really don't want to remove the lathes , either counter battern with two x one timber or use Knauf channel to true it up , feather edge board skrim tape the joints , skim over the joints , and were the wall meets the ceiling .... bish bosh bish all magnolierd up luvly ....

 

[jimi_boom]

here is my opinion and if it was my house.

Take all the laths off the celling as if you try to over board you will have an un even surface and the boards will pull when you try to fix them through to the joists.
I wouldn't bother with noggins in between the joists you have as its a celling and you wont be leaning on it and it wont get too much hammer.

I would then suggest the two coat plaster method if you have not done it for a while or you are a little slow. the first coat will go off very quickly as plaster board sucks all the moisture out so keep throwing water at it when you go. Then throw a second coat over the top and again keep it wet. Where people tend to go wrong in my opinion is to mix the plaster too dry to start with. also use a small ish trowel to apply the base coats and a larger float for polishing.

Just my opinions and I'm no expert but I have been doing houses for the last 20 odd years.

 

[Burdekin]

I use more feather edge and tape system now normally to save time and money, I use gyproc ready mixed joint filler it takes some getting use to but its also great for decorating when you need to fill slight gaps or out of shape walls.
http://www.diy.com/departments/gyproc-ready-mix-joint-cement-12l/35734_BQ.prd

Me too but I wouldn't do a ceiling again. The joists were different widths and angles at my workshop so I just screwed the long edge together with an OSB strip backer.

I put the boards up by myself as well, the weight isn't the problem just supporting a full board I couldn't manage so had to cut them shorter so more darn joins to fill.

 

[Wendelspanswick]

Use taper edge boards ala Scotland, tape and fill the joints

never quite understood the whole boarding then skimming over thing down south...

That's OK it you like paper faced walls that mark easily and if you use wallpaper you can never take it off again. And Taper Edge is only tapered on the long sides, I can spot an un-skimmed ceiling as the filled end joints stand out a mile.

 

[p0689109]

Going back to the first entry that's not a ceiling, its a wall!!
But more seriously the plaster has already come away from the laths so remove them and do it properly adding support as required.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

supporting boards...couple of strips at the end, hook board in, use head to hold other end, screw other end in...not easy with 8x4 unless your name is bruce banner though

Variations on a theme

 

[dannyp]

Can you explain to me the point of skimming over a new plasterboard ceiling with yet more plaster? (I honestly have no idea why its done)

there are various reasons, in some situations its to do with fire regs ether plastering or a higher spec board, for a painted finish plaster allways looks better than drylineing. but the real reason is the amount of bodges a good plaster can hide,

dry lineing works well for bigger simpeler areas and in new builds where everthing is flat and straight, however when there are loads of cuts , small areas, awkward shapes drylineing creates a lot of wastage and gets fiddely and theres not much scope to correct wonky walls wheas with plaster you can run over rubbish boarding, bad cuts make it neatly follow awkward shapes and you can straighten up a wonky wall a lot

 

[p0689109]

Like filler on a car!