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Pigeon_Droppings2
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Yea gaz...the green is definitely the least worst colour I think! I think the second one we are going to have some fun with so that one will likely be a bit more lively. I've seen them in black and also BRG and then look very good...as long as the roof is white it seems to work.
Exuptoy...hope you liked the magnets...they've already sent me my sales commission
(Ed:thats a joke of course!).
Exuptoy...hope you liked the magnets...they've already sent me my sales commission
(Ed:thats a joke of course!).
slim_boy_fat
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Pigeon_Droppings2
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Well a week of flatting of someone else's dodgy paint sure makes me miss the welding. So much high build primer...surprised they got the doors to close!
Pulled the drivers door off to flat it...somehow I missed the large hole in the bottom. Got the rot cleaned up and cut out...got the first piece in and the second piece cut...then SWMBO told me it was time to quit!! Should have the door done tmrw. I'm planning to have a go at might brazing for the bottom edge .
Pulled the drivers door off to flat it...somehow I missed the large hole in the bottom. Got the rot cleaned up and cut out...got the first piece in and the second piece cut...then SWMBO told me it was time to quit!! Should have the door done tmrw. I'm planning to have a go at might brazing for the bottom edge .
jpmillermatic
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Funny how that happens!....then the Oh Yeah! moment comes when you realize you forgot to fix the rust on the door.... paint prep looks great....you are really getting there!
JP
JP
Pigeon_Droppings2
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Cheers JP...the more prep I get done the more tasks seem to get added to the job list!
Got the door done...the main frame part is normal mig...then I added in the door skin flange. This is my very first attempt at night brazibg...there was a fair bit of splatter but I think this is due to my gas not being correct.
I quite like the brazing actually...definitely a lot less heat into the panel. Here in the UK it's only allowed for non structural parts of the car so it rarely gets used.
Got the door done...the main frame part is normal mig...then I added in the door skin flange. This is my very first attempt at night brazibg...there was a fair bit of splatter but I think this is due to my gas not being correct.
I quite like the brazing actually...definitely a lot less heat into the panel. Here in the UK it's only allowed for non structural parts of the car so it rarely gets used.
jpmillermatic
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less metal to rust!...brilliant...and Ill bet it flows into the join?
JP
JP
Pigeon_Droppings2
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Hi JP, the idea was to keep the heat down as the braze wire flows at a much lower temperature - the no rusting is also a good side effect too of course I was really worried about distorting the door skin on the other side...the braze is also a lot more tolerant of "less than perfect" surfaces and it's easier to use with galvanised steel. Well thats what I read but it was good to give it a try...which I did by brazing a repair on for the lower lip without taking the zinc off.
For a first attempt I'm pretty pleased...since I found out that my Kemppi welder has settings for brazing, stainless and aluminium I bought a small roll of each just in case the opportunity arises to try them out. I already tried the stainless when my friend asked me to fix someones favourite cooking pot.
I was worried that the gas would be a problem with the braze and the stainless as I have argon with a hint of CO2 but it actually was fine....bit of splatter though. If I was doing something critical I'd probably invest in the proper gas...but for what I'm doing I think it worked well enough.
For a first attempt I'm pretty pleased...since I found out that my Kemppi welder has settings for brazing, stainless and aluminium I bought a small roll of each just in case the opportunity arises to try them out. I already tried the stainless when my friend asked me to fix someones favourite cooking pot.
I was worried that the gas would be a problem with the braze and the stainless as I have argon with a hint of CO2 but it actually was fine....bit of splatter though. If I was doing something critical I'd probably invest in the proper gas...but for what I'm doing I think it worked well enough.
Pigeon_Droppings2
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Pigeon_Droppings2
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Had a few spare hours so got first coat on the underside. Done with rush and then mini roller...got covered in the stuff. Paint is two part epoxy.
Still have to do seam sealer of course and then a couple more coats. Haven't decided on underseal yet...if I could find a close colour match in grey I think that would be acceptable. Car will be a daily driver so I think it does need something under there to give it a fighting chance.
Still have to do seam sealer of course and then a couple more coats. Haven't decided on underseal yet...if I could find a close colour match in grey I think that would be acceptable. Car will be a daily driver so I think it does need something under there to give it a fighting chance.
Pigeon_Droppings2
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I could do with some suggestions for what to put over the top of the epoxy...the car is likely to be driven over summer months and not much over the winter months.
So far I'm thinking of using underseal (the rubbery stuff) on the exposed floor areas (Dinitrol do some stuff in grey)....the other option is to use one of their underbody waxes but I get the feeling it may not last that long. I quite like the idea of using a clear wax over the epoxy but only if it's got a chance of adding some protection.
Anyone had any success with products that aren't a complete mess...waxoyl is out as this will be a car that I'm often under!!
So far I'm thinking of using underseal (the rubbery stuff) on the exposed floor areas (Dinitrol do some stuff in grey)....the other option is to use one of their underbody waxes but I get the feeling it may not last that long. I quite like the idea of using a clear wax over the epoxy but only if it's got a chance of adding some protection.
Anyone had any success with products that aren't a complete mess...waxoyl is out as this will be a car that I'm often under!!
slim_boy_fat
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No personal experience of UB, but I have used other Bilt Hamber stuff and been pleased. They seem to get very good reviews fir their productshttps://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/dynax-ub
Pigeon_Droppings2
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Cheers guys...yea I definitely agree on the dreaded waxoyl....it's on the same list as por15 although at least por15 is very easy to remove 
.
I've used epoxy mastic 121 before with good results...I've cheaped out this time around and used jotun.
For the moment I'm thinking of just applying 3 coats of epoxy and then monitoring how it performs. Dinitrol do an underbody wax but its either black or brown (brown wax on the underbody....WHY!).
The big issue with stone chip is that it hardens and cracks....but you can't see that it's failed until bits start dropping off. I'm thinking at least with epoxy you can see what is happening and fix any issues...I might just stick with epoxy and annual inspections?
.I've used epoxy mastic 121 before with good results...I've cheaped out this time around and used jotun.
For the moment I'm thinking of just applying 3 coats of epoxy and then monitoring how it performs. Dinitrol do an underbody wax but its either black or brown (brown wax on the underbody....WHY!).
The big issue with stone chip is that it hardens and cracks....but you can't see that it's failed until bits start dropping off. I'm thinking at least with epoxy you can see what is happening and fix any issues...I might just stick with epoxy and annual inspections?
Pigeon_Droppings2
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Cheers Exuptoy...I was literally typing the list below when your message came up.
Doing a bit of hunting around (on other posts)...here is a list of stuff that "could" go over the epoxy.
Gravitex - Upol seem to do some good stuff I think and it comes in grey too.
Dynax UB - this seems to come in clear too.
I'll have a think...still have 2 more coats of epoxy to get on there. The clear Dynax is appealing because I like the idea of being able to inspect how the coatings are performing.
Doing a bit of hunting around (on other posts)...here is a list of stuff that "could" go over the epoxy.
Gravitex - Upol seem to do some good stuff I think and it comes in grey too.
Dynax UB - this seems to come in clear too.
I'll have a think...still have 2 more coats of epoxy to get on there. The clear Dynax is appealing because I like the idea of being able to inspect how the coatings are performing.
jpmillermatic
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there is a poster over at Retrorides in the readers rides section....GrumpyNortherner, who is at the tail end of a mind blowing restoration.....a Jowett window van from the 30s or 40 I think...anyway...he is what I would call a "go to" for all questions like this...and in fact has answered several on this topic..... check it out here:
http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/196036/jowett-bradford-utility-finishing-touches
It being a daily (Figaro) I can understand your concern. hopefully, with your input, it can be treated well and cared for. reading through Grumpy's posts, you will find that he has found cavity wax inside panels lasts a very long time....where as under body, it needs yearly reapplications....
looks great, PD2
JP
http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/196036/jowett-bradford-utility-finishing-touches
It being a daily (Figaro) I can understand your concern. hopefully, with your input, it can be treated well and cared for. reading through Grumpy's posts, you will find that he has found cavity wax inside panels lasts a very long time....where as under body, it needs yearly reapplications....
looks great, PD2
JP
steveo3002
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id leave the underside in epoxy ..or if you must overcoat with some gloss black /grey
that way it jet washes clean , and easy to spot any future scabs before its too late ...underseal is just for hiding stuff , the epoxy is tough enough
that way it jet washes clean , and easy to spot any future scabs before its too late ...underseal is just for hiding stuff , the epoxy is tough enough
