Project #2...Nissan Figaro

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Cheers delcbr...I'm definitely still learning but think my skills are getting much better. I bought the sill "repair panel" on fleabay but it was not a great fit so I really had to fight it to get it on there. The next time I'm just going to make my own...I reckon I can do better myself than the one that I bought!

I'll post some better pics of the front cross member when I have a chance...it really came out very nice given the mess that I started with...still needs repair and welding in but first I'm refitting the whole of the front end (lights and all) just to be 100% sure it all looks right!!

 

[slim_boy_fat]

is that the idea?

Not sure, but it'd make perfect sense. Also, you could drill through just the one panel leaving the old weld proud for grinding smooth.

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Finally got round to using my new cleco set...bought these as a trial for £25! Only came with 10 clamps but must say I really do like these alot. They really do let you set things with a lot of precision...

Second pic shows the fit of the cross member onto the car...it really does line up quite nicely with the welds I drilled out so pretty pleased. Funny how you learn things with experience...I've learned to leave all the old paint in place as it can be used as a guide to fitting things back together. I'll clean up before I weld of course but for now it's handy to see the drill holes.

It could only have been better if I hadn't ripped the inner lip apart getting the thing out!!...but with the aircon rad in the way it was pretty difficult. Once the front end is all back together and everything fits perfectly only then will I weld the member back in.

 

[Rob85]

Use cleco pins day and daily in work, good stuff, but if you want to spend a fortune for something with more clamping force go for wedgelocks. You really need the proper wedgelock gun to tighten them but you can get away with using cleco pliers to nip them up.

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Cheers Rob85...I like the clico pins alot for the precision it gives you...wish I had taken them out of the cupboard sooner but just got used to using grips! To be fair most of the welding I've done has been butt repairs but I imagine these are essential for replacing complete panels.

I will take a look at wedgelock...never hear of them before. The set I bought had 2 clico clamps too which just weren't up to the job....I did like the clico pins though so have ordered another 10 of those. Are wedgelock from the USA do you know?

 

[Rob85]

Ive no idea, I'm sitting looking at them now actually. They may even be a part of the cleco company and just be a different product line. I use them in all sizes from 3/32 up to 5/16. Brilliant on the aircraft as most of what we do is either rivets or hi-lite fasteners. Check out www.skinpins.com they have something similar to what we use, for doing something where there's a high degree of accuracy needed it's hard to beat wedgelocks, that site has manual wingnut types rather than the power ones we use but they are way tighter than ordinary cleco pins.

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Got most of the front end back on...looks amazing. I borrowed the bumper from project2 on the drive. The idea was to get everything in place...bumper is in correct position and all looks good so next job is the cross member.

 

[gaz_moose]

ive some of the 'skin pins' and I found them fiddly and time consuming. plus if you weld near them they melt the coloured plastic caps that stop them falling apart.

you slacken them off, then push them into your hole, then wind the knurled adjuster down against its body, until the small foot clamps the work piece between the foot and the bottom of the tool.

im guessing with the clecos something comes out the bottom and clamps the work piece.

 

[Rob85]

The plastic capped ones are not the pins I was meaning, the wedgelock version works essentially the same as the cleco pins except instead of using an internal spring to retain themselves they have a screw thread, they are all metal and have a better clamping force than the plastic capped skin pin or the ordinary cleco pin. Hopefully this wee pic has uploaded of the ones I use. The black end cap fits into a kind of torque gun that spins and the 2 wedged prongs retract along that wedge that opens them into the hole., without the gun you can tighten them by hand using the cleco pliers or vise grips

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Finally got around to removing the catalytic converter and retrieving the turbo shaft. Turns out this is a remnant of a past turbo failure....finally some good news! Someone must have changed the turbo but not retrieved the busted shaft.

I have no idea whether a hole through the catalytic converter will cause an MOT issue...these cars were made in 1991...I believe catalytic converters became mandatory in 1992 as my MR2 doesn't have one....will have to ask my MOT guy before putting it in for the test.

In the second pic you can see the current installed turbo exhaust turbine fans....what a relief!

Couldn't resist giving the catalytic converter heat shield a little spruce up while I had it off the car...high temperature paint of course!

 

[gaz_moose]

i think you will be fine not having a cat inside your cat when it comes to the MOT, as that car wont appear on the system.

 

[jpmillermatic]

wait, now...someone left the turbo shaft and vanes inside the cat??? HUH?...You just cannot make this stuff up!

crazy!

glad the existing one looks good...wastegate looks in good shape too?

JP

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Yea pretty unbelievable to just leave the shaft inside the cat!!

On the plus side I reckon the hole in the cat is just about the only hole on this car which wasn't full of filler

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Alot of welding, grinding,more welding,more grinding....finally I have the cross member back in one piece. Next job is to prep the car to receive it and then to weld it in!

Taken alot of work to align this properly...those clico pins have really helped me out alot. I decided to cut the ends off and replace with new steel so I'd have a nice flange to plug weld this in. The end repairs have been lapped in and welded both sides so it's nice and strong.

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Half way there...I still need to fix the bumper brackets back on. I've replicated the original spot welds with plug welds. Part of me wants to also run a seam down the edges...given how safety critical this is I think belt and braces are the order of the day!

Love the green overspray on the zircon radiator and pipes...I'm guessing this isn't original. I might have to paint them black...just looks terrible I think.

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Feels like I'm just posting the same pictures!...this is with the front end back on after the cross member has been welded in. The aim was to get the cross member in the right place so I wouldn't need any packers as the front body bolts onto the member....the front end is plastic which is why there wasn't more damage when the bumper got hit as it just flexed...amazing really.

Next up was to refit the bumper...this needs to be lined up and then I can tack in the bumper brackets...then strip it all off and weld them in fully. But none of that can happen until my new welding wire arrives . It feels like a lot of repetition but I want it to look spot on as the bumpers basically make the car I think.

As there is no welding wire I decided to make up a set of wing stays....the originals were well past it. These are just knocked up using some hollow stainless bar...worked a treat.

 

[jpmillermatic]

devil in the details!

nicely done

JP

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Cheers JP...yea this stuff seems to take me a long time but I think it's important to get it right so its time well spent. It is very reminiscent of the MR2 front end rebuild...it's a case of checking and double checking because at this stage even 3mm will really stand out on the front of the car.

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Got the bumper brackets welded in today...also being "Mr belt & braces" I decided to seam weld the cross member ends. Next I stuck a layer of zinc rich primer on there...this will get painted green but for now it'll keep the rust off.

The green overspray on the radiator was so annoying I decided it had to be painted...I'll probably dust over the whole radiator in mat black just to finish it off. For now at least the grey is a lot less annoying than the green!

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

I've been very lucky with all the alignment. I dropped the radiator in and it just fitted straight in...the bolt holes on the rear of the cross member lined up perfectly....I had actually forgotten that it bolted to the cross member so this was just blind luck I think!