Pulled out my engine today

[Coo]

Your throttle body clamp....
You've probably googled but incase not, I found this :

Info/picture request of Normetta band clamp on throttle body - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Although searching again I can't see that name being used for the clamp.
However:

"Should be 2 loops of strap. The end of the outer loop will slip into a slot on the tightening bolt. The end of the strap had broken off in the slot in the bolt. I used a small pick to get the piece out of the slot. Slid the end of the strap in it and e it down."

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Thanks Coo, I managed to reassemble the existing clamp as per that link!

Fuel system off again to get access to the clamp.

The band had sheared off in the slot of the tightening screw.

I was able to pick it out.

Refitted and tightened.

Power steering fluid cooler fitted.

New hoses fitted.

Next the throttle linkage, there seemed to be too many parts in the bag.

Fitted, I'm sure the large washer with rubber bonded should be used somewhere.

Next I filled the PS system.......

.....and spun it up with a drill to bleed all the air out.

Last I jacked up the front of the car and tested out the setting I'd put into the steering box, it ended up with about 10mm of free play at the steering wheel.

With that set I could move onto the exhaust manifold.

Surprisingly I was able to get this torque wrench onto all the nuts and bolts, but I have no idea what torque they should be set at, does anyone know what an M8 bolt into aluminium should be?

 

[Farside]

Thanks Coo, I managed to reassemble the existing clamp as per that link!

Fuel system off again to get access to the clamp.

The band had sheared off in the slot of the tightening screw.

I was able to pick it out.

Refitted and tightened.

Power steering fluid cooler fitted.

New hoses fitted.

Next the throttle linkage, there seemed to be too many parts in the bag.

Fitted, I'm sure the large washer with rubber bonded should be used somewhere.

Next I filled the PS system.......

.....and spun it up with a drill to bleed all the air out.

Last I jacked up the front of the car and tested out the setting I'd put into the steering box, it ended up with about 10mm of free play at the steering wheel.

With that set I could move onto the exhaust manifold.

Surprisingly I was able to get this torque wrench onto all the nuts and bolts, but I have no idea what torque they should be set at, does anyone know what an M8 bolt into aluminium should be?

17ft/lbs, was my intial reaction from buttoning up plenty of bike engines.
Nice to be right

https://www.southwestairsports.com/ppgtechinfo/general/torque_values/torque-values.pdf

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I'm reading that table as 17Nm for an M8 bolt in aluminium?

 

[Farside]

I'm reading that table as 17Nm for an M8 bolt in aluminium?

I was taking it as an 8.8 bolt into aluminium - 24.4NM = 17.98ft/lbs
Given that corresponds nicely with memory, current practice, and every workshop manual I have, I'm not arguing with the table. Otoh, what gawdawlmighty strong alloys must be available for other applications, than the recycled coke cans used in bike crankcases.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Hi Farside, I'm looking at the table and reading aluminium from the last column and seeing 17Nm for an M8? I can't see where you are getting 24.4Nm?

However M8 Jag manual says 25Nm for its exhaust manifold which is also an aluminium head.

 

[Farside]

However M8 Jag manual says 25Nm for its exhaust manifold which is also an aluminium head.

Well, there ye go. Jag probably using 8.8 and coke tin alloy.
ps. I would never rely totally on feel for some of these dodgy fasteners into ally, as they're often over-stressed by previous owners. A half-decent torque wrench is a must. At least then, if they strip you know it wasn't your fault, but some previous monkey.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Right side engine shock etc fitted.

Cross brace and fly catcher fitted.

Radiator fitted.

Power steering cooler flex hoses and horns fitted, don't flame me about the non genuine horns, I'll buy better ones sometime.

I then spent an hour searching for the coolant bottle before finding it in the boot!

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Here is an interesting comparison, the pic below is from 20th March 2011 when I put this engine in the car.....

....and one from 30th March ten years later in a similar state of assembly.

 

[Migmac]

Wow, that’s impessive.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

don't flame me about the non genuine horns, I'll buy better ones sometime.

Warning, it's LOUD.......

 

[jenki]

Your work is superb.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I finished off installing parts in the engine bay today.

Then cleaned and sanded the downpipes.

High temp paint.

All four parts painted.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

The first job today was to drill out the baffle from the second cam cover.

My plan is to refit after cleaning with these hammer drive rivets.

Looks like the old ones were also held in with steel rivets.

I also used some high temp high strength loctite on the rivets just to be safe.

Hammered home.

Next, baking the high temp paint on the downpipes for an hour.

I should have unwound this first, the heat safety switch tripped out after an hour.

Next, I was a bit worried about the mid section of the engine harness, it was very flexible and felt like the wires had snapped. So I peeled back the braiding only to find that there was only one wire. That checked out to be correct on the wiring diagram.

Re-braided and fitted.

Repairs to the seat heater wiring which I had previously had to cut.

Finally for today, a bit of CAM cover polishing. Before.

One polished and one to be done.

That's it for today, looks like the next few days will be bad weather.

Does anyone have any tips on running in the engine and when to do an oil change?

 

[Bullet2012]

 

[RichardM]

What needs running in?
Warm the engine up and change the oil and filter straight away. Keep an eye on temp gauge and oil pressure.

New pistons / rings / rebore, I'm an advocate of the build them with dry rings, run up and down the rev range (load them up) thought process.

The only thing I would worry about is the "new" cam bearings and if you can check to make sure they haven't picked up easily after a couple of hundred miles in then that's something I would do just for peace of mind.

Change oil and filter again at 500 miles or the end of summer - which ever is sooner!

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I had a few days off due to the cold weather and snow as I was going to have to spend a bit of time on my back on the cold concrete.

In the mean time I polished up the second cam cover.

And picked up a few new parts from Mercedes.

Next, time for the exhaust to come off.

It always feels much heavier than expected, I will have to split it for refitting.

Getting this clip onto the gear shift link was a pain, it took me 30 minutes to get on due to restricted access.

Transmission support cradle and original pan fitted.

Earth cable and pitman arm nut fitted.

Heat shields on.

Finally I managed to get the right downpipe fitted.

There was no way to get the left one fitted single handed, I will need to get Kim to help from the top end tomorrow.

Back now aching due to a combination of the cold and lying down on a combination of tools and parts.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

More work on the exhaust today but first I got the headlights refitted with the new connectors from MB.

I got the second downpipe fitted then moved onto the middle box, the little scissor lift is handy for this.

I used this jointing compound, lower one for the main joints and the silicone one for the balancer pipe.

Middle box fitted.

Moving on to the rear.

Connected up, yes the white streaks in the pic are snow.

I still need to fit the balancer but am not sure how the heat shield is supposed to be oriented, I'll need to find a pic.

 

[Bullet2012]

Awesome work, so good to see. Please post a video when you get the beast running.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Today I.........

Fitted the balancer pipe.

Filled the transmission with 4l of Dexron 2D. The manual calls for 4l initial fill then another ~4.9l once the engine is started.

This meets the spec.

Bit by bit in here.

Spark plugs out again.

These plastic washers protect the panels from the battery tray.

Battery in and good quiescent current.

Ready to try to build oil pressure....

Bad news, I couldn't get any oil pressure.

I tried with another battery but with no success, I don't think the engine is spinning fast enough to get the oil pump to pick up oil.

Any suggestions on what to try next?