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I saw this on FB marketplace listed as a crawler attachment, looks like some sort of flail?
- Thread starter Dieselman 63
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Tinbasherdan
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Spring tine rotavator by the looks of it
jordhandson
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That is a Mansley cultivator made for Ransomes by Gregson & Monk LTD check out my posting. Im not a 100% but I think they were for the MG6 and up as they had the hydraulic lift arms but don quote me.
Pictures of old or rare vehicles
Check out the Morris Marina door handles :whistle:
www.mig-welding.co.uk
Did you buy it
Cheers
Dieselman 63
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They’re rare and as such hard to find. I get enough complaints about the tracks though, I dread to think what would happen if I used that on the garden!
Tinbasherdan
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Only one way to find out ....
Dieselman 63
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I want to build a slasher for it, that’s the current goal anyway.
Dieselman 63
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A nice way to spend a rainy morning 
All cleaned up and ready to put back on the pto. The splines I cleaned with a very fine file and lots of degreaser. It wouldn’t fit on the shaft to begin with but now slides on with ease - very satisfying. Found some random blue paint in the shed which seems a close enough match to Ransomes. Assembly grease added, though there is a nipple which I’ll probably replace anyway, as well as stick new bolts and lock washers on.
All cleaned up and ready to put back on the pto. The splines I cleaned with a very fine file and lots of degreaser. It wouldn’t fit on the shaft to begin with but now slides on with ease - very satisfying. Found some random blue paint in the shed which seems a close enough match to Ransomes. Assembly grease added, though there is a nipple which I’ll probably replace anyway, as well as stick new bolts and lock washers on.
Dieselman 63
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The universal joints spun well, getting them free however was another issue. Only one hammered free, so I ended up cutting the rest and punching them out. The circlips shattered as soon as I tried to remove them.
Dieselman 63
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The gearbox is now free of all gears. It’s dirty in there! Bearings are shot and gaskets look cooked, too. I might not use this so I might close it up/sell as the overrun clutch and linkage could be all I need right now. Looks a lot of work here anyway.
Dieselman 63
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Shiny shiny. Needs new paint but I need to find a new universal before then.
Dieselman 63
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I went to visit the crawler yesterday to see how it is. Took it for a drive and only stalled once which was nice. She’s a bit shakey over hills. Not entirely sure why but they’ve made a gulley about 1x0.5m at the property it’s at, it’s good fun ramping into that and out the other side!
New PTO bearings, cover, and a carb needle are coming from England which is exciting. I think my needle is badly worn as it’s puffing away with black smoke, running rich.
New PTO bearings, cover, and a carb needle are coming from England which is exciting. I think my needle is badly worn as it’s puffing away with black smoke, running rich.
Dieselman 63
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I also got this NGK plug cover, it’s waterproof and stops me worrying about sending magneto voltage into my arm when cranking over. Non-original but better than the brass clip.
not done it yet
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While your needle may be worn, it could be the fuel level in the float chamber that is incorrect - meaning it may be the float, the needle valve or even some gasket material interfering with the float movement. I’ve also come cross leakage around the foat valve where it is screwed into the carb.
Other faults could be the air supply - filter, or choke mechanism loose. More unlikely, intermittently leaking, or not leaking, air into the induction side, thus changing the perceived settings in an uncontrolled manner.
Fuel level in the carb can be altered by bending bits or by changing the washer thickness under the float valve. The gasket between float chamber and cover may also be allowing fuel to enter the airstream without passing through the carb jets.
You need to know how the fuel metering is changing throughout the speed range, but hopefully, for you, the new needle will resolve the problem.
Do you have a ’kill’ switch on the magneto? Many single cylinder engines of this type simply had a simple sprung steel strip that was pressed onto the plug terminal to short the spark.
Other faults could be the air supply - filter, or choke mechanism loose. More unlikely, intermittently leaking, or not leaking, air into the induction side, thus changing the perceived settings in an uncontrolled manner.
Fuel level in the carb can be altered by bending bits or by changing the washer thickness under the float valve. The gasket between float chamber and cover may also be allowing fuel to enter the airstream without passing through the carb jets.
You need to know how the fuel metering is changing throughout the speed range, but hopefully, for you, the new needle will resolve the problem.
Do you have a ’kill’ switch on the magneto? Many single cylinder engines of this type simply had a simple sprung steel strip that was pressed onto the plug terminal to short the spark.
Dieselman 63
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An interesting and useful post which I will read more carefully later on, thank you
Yes there is a kill switch, though I usually just choke the engine. Easier… though I did leave provision for such a switch on my dash panel I built. The final hole.
Dieselman 63
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So my plug gets a bit fouled 
and I decided to drag this ancient plug doctor out which I’d thoughtfully dismantled with a view to restoring it, but I honestly think it’s a waste of time and I will give it an oily rag resto, shine up the chrome bits and leave the paint. Had a quote to restore the plaque and they wanted close to $500 which is double what I paid for this.
Anyway… sight glasses cleaned, and the sticky buttons for the compound blast have been oiled and work smoothly. I need a little under-bench compressor to run the blaster now.
and I decided to drag this ancient plug doctor out which I’d thoughtfully dismantled with a view to restoring it, but I honestly think it’s a waste of time and I will give it an oily rag resto, shine up the chrome bits and leave the paint. Had a quote to restore the plaque and they wanted close to $500 which is double what I paid for this.Anyway… sight glasses cleaned, and the sticky buttons for the compound blast have been oiled and work smoothly. I need a little under-bench compressor to run the blaster now.
Dieselman 63
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Mostly back together
Dieselman 63
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Back on the bench, compressor sure is loud, sandblaster works, need some media for it. More crap off the floor, I’m happy!
that's what I like about jobs like this, having to fix something that I need to fix the something that I'll need to fix the something else so I can repair the original thing I was trying to repair in the first place... aaargh........ maybe that's why things take an age to get out the door.... ah well at least we move forward..
nice work by the way...
nice work by the way...
Dieselman 63
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Haha yes it’s a bloody nightmare here I tell you but… we do make progress! Waiting on those bits from England, new PTO bearings, can’t wait. I’ll probably change the oil whilst the gearbox lid is off, makes sense.
octo0072000
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you need carborundum media not sand for the blaster
