Ransomes MG5 Crawler

[Robotstar5]

Out of interest, what plug are you running?, some older engines run better on older plugs (even used ones!) the stationary engine crowd have found putting a modern equivalent plug into an old engine and some won't even start.

 

[Robotstar5]

I also got this NGK plug cover, it’s waterproof and stops me worrying about sending magneto voltage into my arm when cranking over. Non-original but better than the brass clip.

View attachment 320781

Make sure it's not a resistor cap, kills magnetos

 

[not done it yet]

Make sure it's not a resistor cap, kills magnetos

Not sure about that, but they certainly reduce the spark energy from a magneto, which is limited for a mag compared to the possibilities with the Kettering system. It might do the mag no good if the spark is unable to jump the spark plug gap, but I doubt it would kill it.

 

[Robotstar5]

Not sure about that, but they certainly reduce the spark energy from a magneto, which is limited for a mag compared to the possibilities with the Kettering system. It might do the mag no good if the spark is unable to jump the spark plug gap, but I doubt it would kill it.

The mags on some of the old engines were designed to last 10 maybe 20 years, my oldest was getting on for 90 years old, it needs all the help it can get

 

[Dieselman 63]

Out of interest, what plug are you running?, some older engines run better on older plugs (even used ones!) the stationary engine crowd have found putting a modern equivalent plug into an old engine and some won't even start.

A champion JC8, though I think it’d benefit from something hotter.

Your tip about shoe polish on the mag worked wonders btw. Nice work!

 

[Dieselman 63]

you need carborundum media not sand for the blaster

Yes, I was advised the sand can embed in the metal then loosen under heat and score the bores.

 

[zeppelin builder]

I’ve tracked the oil leak down to the valve cover which is up on top of the engine between the cooling fins. There was an old paper gasket in there, but I’m wondering if cork might be better? Im going to put some hylomar on there, too.

old corn flake box and a smear of silicone

 

[zeppelin builder]

Absolute killing machines, for the love of god don’t drive it up a steep incline forwards!

surely front heavy though

 

[zeppelin builder]

A champion JC8, though I think it’d benefit from something hotter.

Your tip about shoe polish on the mag worked wonders btw. Nice work!

usualy 18 mm plugs
lodge c3
or champion 8 com

gap at 15 thou and dont fit modern resistor plug caps

 

[Dieselman 63]

Picked up some spares. All put away carefully. Some of the tool bar found and laid out, and the belt pulley.

 

[Dieselman 63]

Onto more work. The hitch lift gear is almost all there, but needs some work on degreasing. A job for the wire wheel and some petrol. This must be installed before the PTO or you can’t fit it.

The PTO is getting new bearings and they’re lovely. I got a new fibre washer for the sump plug (40c each ) and new oil seals. Going to investigate brake bands - right one I’d looking dusty, may need changing. Exciting stuff! (For me at least!)

 

[Dieselman 63]

Here I’m doing a ‘dry’ run of the lifting gear. The handle will be welded back onto the piece that for some reason was cut off. I have a suspicion it was cut because of alignment with the piece above it which requires a locking pin. I’m going to cut some of the bushing off so the weld doesn’t interfere with operation. It’s all gone quite well, though. Had to straighten a few bits in the vice. You can see how the PTO shaft would make fitting this piece impossible with the long handle.

 

[Dieselman 63]

About time some actual welding happened. My friend welded this up for me, I was very grateful. It’s now fitted and installed back on the tractor.

 

[Dieselman 63]

Then I re-fitted the PTO box and put a new gasket with some hylomar on. These nuts are really hard to get to. I filled it with ep140 up to when the drain plug started weeping. Then, time for the rear bearing.

 

[Dieselman 63]

Now the PTO is in and running. This is really good, as I took it out without knowing I was going to get the lift parts, but to install them you need to remove it. Happily both are working well.

 

[Dieselman 63]

Since things were going well I decided to replace the fibre washers on the final drives - 40¢ each from Wurth two for each side, plus one that went on the PTO box.

The oil seals on the drives work a bit unusually as they’re designed to weep, which pushes things out. A build-up of dirt like this should be expected, however it’s important to check the level from time to time.

There are two plugs, a drain plug and a level plug - when this starts to weep, you’ve filled to the correct level. If you over-fill, oil can seep into the brake boxes and foul the bands, which would cause slipping. As I was replacing the washers, I did an oil change. The manual recommends a Castrol EP140, which you can still buy 71 years later

 

[Dieselman 63]

Todays running session went really well - well, until I managed to wedge the tractor between a tree, fence and planter (dismantled the fence to free her!).

I heard some light squeaking/squealing from the track, so took it into the workshop for an investigation - up onto jack stands, track off… this is when things took a bit of a dive.

 

[Dieselman 63]

Back in a (remarkably tidy) workshop and I noticed the rear hub was leaking something black. I’ve recently received the manual and read through, it said under no circumstances should grease be used. This is bad as I’d been greasing the load bearing rollers (the two small ones at the bottom). These rollers have some interesting felt discs in, I’ll get a pic when I’m certain of how to rebuild them. They take an ep140 which is handy as I mistakenly ordered two cans a while ago.

Back to the back… and I wasn’t really sure what I was looking at when I popped the steel lid off. The usual ingress of dirt? Another knackered bearing? Two knackered bearings, and a totally blown apart oil seal that seems to have become so fatigued that it’s perished. Grease everywhere. The nipple was hidden under dirt, so hasn’t been done in at least the time I’ve owned it - the bearings are made by a company that went under in 1995! (Could have been new old stock, but this is sad to see). The other side will need doing, I’m sure. Four new bearings and four new seals needed. I wanted to have this in the a show in a month, I think this has killed that idea.

A) it’s cheaper (a LOT cheaper) to buy bearings from England than it is locally

B) I have no money after Xmas, and I need to save up for another 450km run for parts. I wanted to do that within the next month.

 

[Dieselman 63]

All is not well here. These idler wheels are not meant to have bearings, but bronze bushings. The bearings in at the moment are metric, sleeved to fit. They came out really, really easily, not the best sign. I’m thinking of re-making bronze bushes, I suspect they may be oilite though.

 

[Dieselman 63]

Tractor aside, I’ve also got the toolbar project to contend with. I picked up these very old wheel hub assemblies the other week, well - I now know them to be, thanks to forum help. I’m going to use them on the toolbar, as shown in the illustration. Need to find some tyres for them but first they’re off to be sandblasted. I’ve turned a sacrificial wooden plug (European beech rounds I had left over from a larger turning job) to protect the bearing surface.

Speaking of bearings, a before and after of the Pollard needle roller bearings. They’re a bit worse for wear but come up good! Good enough for the guide wheel on a piece of horticultural equipment, anyhow.

Thanks for the sad reacts, ‘tis a bit of a let down chaps! Still, wouldn’t be as fun if it was brand new