Resin or rawl plugs or ??

[atomant48]

The cheap standard Easifix resin works pretty well for just about anything that doesn't specifically call for something better, and seems to fit your application.

If you only have a couple or so to do, the 175ml resin cartridges which fit a standard cartridge gun are probably the most cost-effective. If you have many to do, the bigger 380ml tubes are nicer to use and it doesn't take very long to pay for the special gun.

If you are likely to be going into a cavity, the plastic sleeves are probably a good idea but be aware these need a bigger hole. If you are just going into a blind hole, you'll usually get away with 1/2" holes in the steelwork, offer it up, drill 12mm holes in the concrete or brickwork, clean out as well as you can, squirt in the resin, push in the M10 studding, wait a bit, do up the nut. Job jobbed. If you use the sleeves, they need a bigger (16mm?) hole and you'll either have to mark the holes and move the steelwork out of the way to drill, or have humongous great clearance holes.

thanks for all those tips. Just to be clear as there are several ones on screwfix site -you mention easyfix so is it this particular “chemical” one below?

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

thanks for all those tips. Just to be clear as there are several ones on screwfix site -you mention easyfix so is it this particular “chemical” one below?

View attachment 244578

Will need to source a gun for those

These go in a standard gun
Always have a few in the van
https://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug...e22Go2rH-glnstBh4QvmwZ5tNbfYBgpgaAg_AEALw_wcB

Edit. Your image above might just be a stubby tube.

 

[Parm]

I'm a new convert to resin fixings. @Welderpaul sent me some stuff and a gun to fix the hand rail on the staircase. The plugs in the cinder block had worked loose.

I made 15mm diameter holes, cleared out the dust by blowing through a straw, filled with resin, Re drilled and plugged. Its rock solid now

 

[Onoff]

Drill ALL your holes first.

Then clean them all out. Have your studs at hand ready to go in. I will often push the stud into the dry hole then wrap a bit of insulating tape around the stud at the junction of the wall. This guarantees no resin will get into the threads. I tend to put the nut and washer on the end of the stud to 1) not lose them and 2) save catching myself on the edge of the stud.

Have a old cardboard box to hand and some squares of card if you're a newbie at this. Pump the resin into the hole then push the stud in. Normally 8mm stud, 10mm hole, 10mm stud 8mm hole.

Wipe off any excess resin with your bit of card and dump in the box. Curing resin can get hot, very hot so let any waste cure before dumping in the normal rubbish.

It'll go off super quick and you can peel the protective tape off. Nice clean studs.

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Fence posts and plugs/friction fittings I wouldn't do....any movement ant they'll rock their way out.

Your pic is the stuff I use all the time. Make sure it's properly mixed before you start using...it will turn grey in the mixer tube once you start pumping.

 

[J1nx]

Will need to source a gun for those

These go in a standard gun
Always have a few in the van
https://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug...e22Go2rH-glnstBh4QvmwZ5tNbfYBgpgaAg_AEALw_wcB

Edit. Your image above might just be a stubby tube.

That’s the one I just used, straight in a normal silicon gun, seems to have worked as well as everyone says. I wrenched up the 19mm nut the following day and it certainly felt absolutely rock solid, probably could have tightened after a few minutes but I didn’t need to.

 

[Turbo]

I've used the Fischer resin & it works really well, particularly in poor quality block work where normal metal anchors have failed.

Something not mentioned is that you need to dump the first bit of resin squirted out because it isn't mixed properly, you can see when it's mixed well as it will be a uniform colour.

 

[Onoff]

Something not mentioned is that you need to dump the first bit of resin squirted out because it isn't mixed properly, you can see when it's mixed well as it will be a uniform colour.

2 posts up?

"Make sure it's properly mixed before you start using...it will turn grey in the mixer tube once you start pumping".

Not the best pic but I use this. Fischer FIS V 360 S. Special gun required but it's good stuff:

 

[Onoff]

First resin system I used came in glass capsules that you popped into the drilled hole. The special resin studs were cut lengths of studding with a chisel point one end and a hex socket the other. You whizzed them in with a drill to break the glass and mix everything up.

 

[Onoff]

I've used DeWalt and No Nonsense resin when helping A N Other who knew I was experienced in using resin but they bought the stuff. Both OK but I prefer Fischer every single time.

Comes from using it at work for man riding applications like abseiling anchors and safety harness eyebolts. Use to use Rawlplug back when it was called Kemfix (now R-Kem). No idea why the firm changed to Fischer but it's damn good gear.

 

[atomant48]

Thanks all. I’ve got a couple to try and a big bag of nozzles I’ll report back with my adventures.

 

[Onoff]

Thanks all. I’ve got a couple to try and a big bag of nozzles I’ll report back with my adventures.

Might sound like I'm batting on about it but drill all your holes first.

If fitting timber to a wall I drill through the timber to mark the wall first.

Then clean the holes. Have the studs ready. A few pumps on the gun onto a bit of scrap card / timber to get the mix a consistent colour. Then pump in, fit a stud, pump in, fit the next stud. Keep that stuff flowing through the nozzle or it'll set in there. Once finished remove the nozzle and screw the cap back on.

If you end up with a stud that's slightly on the skew, then depending on the length/dia you can, once set, tweak it over with a pipe slipped over the stud, adjustable spanner or 2 nuts and a hammer.

 

[Turbo]

Does anyone know where you can get spare nozzles for the Fischer resin at a sensible price?

 

[Onoff]

Does anyone know where you can get spare nozzles for the Fischer resin at a sensible price?

Pretty sure I've used generic nozzles from SF/TS on Fischer cartridges.


Place on eBay selling 50 for £20.

 

[Onoff]

Also used them but they are all but finished, they were used to keep prices high as you often had to use their drills, use their resin ampules, and use their studs. It was claimed that it was for a complete system and regulatory compliance and consistency but that was B/S as it was all about money and nothing else.

At the time it did have an advantage and this was that boxes of resin ampules could be left on company vans and as they were sealed they didn't deteoriate and had a longer working life but technological advancements meant resins got better and putting them into plastic tubes was easier and there working life wasn't impaired.

Seem to recall the capsules used to come in formed polystyrene packaging for protection. I found some at the back of the shed a while back that had been crushed and partially set into a sticky mess, still like it after many years. They were things of beauty with the resin and aggregate separate but all visible.

 

[atomant48]

Well finally managed to have a play with this resin stuff today. All the advice above was hopefully put to good use.

I ended up using the Rawl K-Rem stuff and some M10 stainless rod. It all seemed to go as advertised. The rod never felt “solid” once set - there was a bit of up down movement at the end but I put this down to just the long length flexing. The nut spun up hard and it didn’t pull out at all (it pulled the post hard into the brickwork) and it’s certainly not going anywhere.

One thing that did surprise me is nothing came out the hole with the air gun once I had drilled. If anything the brick seemed like clay and stuck to the bit. but this particular post is secured a few points up its length so the resin is really an additional bit on this particular post.

Of course the pics aren’t that exciting - a wooden post against a wall with a stainless nut in the middle :-) but no pics and it didn’t happen!

 

[atomant48]

Well I’m starting to quite like these resin fixings. Had to use another couple today and these ones I know are solid as i had to butcher them a bit. So here’s my process, hopefully this is of use to someone that’s a bit nervous about them like I was.

I drill the thing I’m fixing (in this case a short fence post) at this stage just 6mm

I use that as a guide and drill the bricks with M6 to about 80mm depth. I’ve found not punching right through the brick (ie leaving it as a blind hole is best for keeping the resin in place)

I open up the bricks to M12 and the same on the post but then butcher the holes in the wood to about 14-16. This allows for inaccuracy when fitting together.

I blow the obvious dust then scrape out the brick holes with the threaded stud - it picks up a lot of rubbish.

Squirt the resin in starting full depth with the nozzle and pulling it out as you squirt till the resin is just flowing out of the hole (the instructions say 70% but I like to know it’s in there)

Push the stud in and then wipe any spillage with a cardboard scraper.

Leave for a period of time - tube says 45 mins but today I only did about 10-15. At that point (I’m guessing something moved when I drilled one of the holes ) I had to percussion adjust one of the studs downwards and it was rock solid in the brick. I wasn’t bothered as if it came out I was going to redrill anyway.

Then assemble, I use big flat washers to cover up the excess hole and tighten. I’m going about as tight as I can with a ring spanner - I reckon they’d take a lot more. Certainly the washers are pulling into the wood so they are firm.

A lot of on line chat about cleaning the holes etc but this “rough n ready” approach is certainly working for me.

 

[Onoff]

I drill the thing I’m fixing (in this case a short fence post) at this stage just 6mm

Then assemble, I use big flat washers to cover up the excess hole and tighten. I’m going about as tight as I can with a ring spanner - I reckon they’d take a lot more. Certainly the washers are pulling into the wood so they are firm.

I FIRST drill the thing you're fixing with a flat wood bit, big enough to accept the big flat washer, to a depth that will allow the washer, nut and 2 or 3 threads to lie flush with the front of the timber. You can then nut it up with a socket. You can even go an 1/8" or so deeper and fit little wooden plugs / caps for an invisible fixing.

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

I remember when I first started using resin....I couldn't believe it would hold.

It's only when I had to take one out that it became clear it wasn't going anywhere!

Being a resin cure time is temperature dependent....on a hot day it goes off very quick....which can be a challenge to get multiple holes done.

I always use resin for radiators...I cannot stand wobbly radiators balancing on pipework!

 

[atomant48]

I FIRST drill the thing you're fixing with a flat wood bit, big enough to accept the big flat washer, to a depth that will allow the washer, nut and 2 or 3 threads to lie flush with the front of the timber. You can then nut it up with a socket. You can even go an 1/8" or so deeper and fit little wooden plugs / caps for an invisible fixing.

agreed. Ive got a 32 mm spade which is perfect size for M10 big flat washers. That’s how the deck joists were done to sink the bolts flush. But as this one is a short fence post that will never be seen I drew the line at being a perfectionist this time !