- Thread starter atomant48
- Start date
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,119
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Resin with plastic top hat cages in the hole and high grade stainless steel studding . Rough up the bit that goes in the hole with an angle grinder to give it more key . Resin soaks in the concrete / brickwork so gives a very high strength stress free anchor ..... so little or no chance of the brick being blown apart. Resin anchors also allow you to drill a lot closer the the edge than if you were using expansion plugs/devices.
Buy new from a decent supplier ..be wary of eBay personal sales as the capsules of resin glue have a shelf life of about a year only . If you go for the dual resin & catalyst squeeze pack /syringe put the studding bolt in your battery drill and once you have squeezed the gunge in the hole slip the bolt in and use the drill to whip it up /mix it in the hole . I often used to drill the post first , then use the post as the distance guide to drill the wall supporting the newly glued in post position for 24 hrs so it does not slip till the glue is fully set .
Buy new from a decent supplier ..be wary of eBay personal sales as the capsules of resin glue have a shelf life of about a year only . If you go for the dual resin & catalyst squeeze pack /syringe put the studding bolt in your battery drill and once you have squeezed the gunge in the hole slip the bolt in and use the drill to whip it up /mix it in the hole . I often used to drill the post first , then use the post as the distance guide to drill the wall supporting the newly glued in post position for 24 hrs so it does not slip till the glue is fully set .
badabec
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 1,950
- Location
- Essex UK
And then filling up the hole with asbestos based filler that was mixed with water
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
- Messages
- 11,852
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
Aren't the cage/mesh inserts used primarily where there's a cavity behind?
paulmitchell1984
Member
- Messages
- 821
- Location
- Leeds
I'm going to be using resin for a handrail in brick, im using m10 threaded bar would a 12mm hole be enough, could I get away with smaller?
atomant48
Member
- Messages
- 1,770
- Location
- Salisbury, UK
I used M12 holes with 10mm bar. That seems about the perfect ratio. I suspect if you go smaller you’d just push the resin to the end of the hole. If you are tight on hole space for whatever reason maybe drop the stud size ?
paulmitchell1984
Member
- Messages
- 821
- Location
- Leeds
No I'm not tight on space was more of a curiosity thing, cheers
Windy Miller
Semi-Professional Potterer!
- Messages
- 3,598
- Location
- North Kent, UK
I seem to recall that you need a hole that is 4mm larger than the stud. At least i think I recall that, but it could be my imagination!
atomant48
Member
- Messages
- 1,770
- Location
- Salisbury, UK
Well I had to do some more resin holes today to put up a basket ball hoop. What a job ! But that’s another story. Anyway 6 holes in total at M12 so I had everything prepared - studs cut, holes drilled and cleaned out etc and duly squirted the resin into each hole.... yup by the time I put the gun down and got to pushing the first stud in it had already started to go hard. Must be extremely temperature dependent - it’s pretty warm here at the moment. Had to re drill 2 of them but managed to get the others in ok. It’s done now (although waiting till the morning for final tightening) but had me cursing on the inside for a while there.
Parm
Respect The Sound System
- Messages
- 17,896
- Location
- Towcester
That sounds like a right royal pain in the behind?
Did you resin all holes at the same time or go one by one ?
One by one is best. I learnt just like you
Agroshield
Member
- Messages
- 5,551
Yes. And the better brands of resin (Hilti, Spit, etc.) will have a graph on the instruction sheet that gives cure time vs. temperature.
You can slow it down by leaving it in the fridge. In the winter, you can speed it up by leaving it a heated office rather than in a cold, outside toolbox.
Bobupndown
What could possibly go wrong?
- Messages
- 1,755
- Location
- Northern Ireland
Not used resin before always rawlbolted into concrete but intrigued. Would it be suitable for anchoring a 2 post lift down onto a 6" concrete slab?
atomant48
Member
- Messages
- 1,770
- Location
- Salisbury, UK
Sounds good advice. I checked and it’s about 5 min working time but I thought I was well within that. Anyway it’s stuck on the wall now - a couple might need redoing to satisfy my perfectionism but it’s not going anywhere for now.
atomant48
Member
- Messages
- 1,770
- Location
- Salisbury, UK
Can’t see why not. I used rawl bolts for everything until this resin was recommended on here and I would t go back now. It’s not as messy as you’d think and it seems pretty fool proof.
tflnemesis
Member
- Messages
- 650
Another vote for resin fixings, kids at my school managed to rip up 3 benches that were fixed using the metal expanding rawl bolts.
Fixed em back down using resin, they are rock solid and have been for 3 years. 2 others that were put back (fresh drilled holes) using the rawl bolts and they are already loose.
Fixed em back down using resin, they are rock solid and have been for 3 years. 2 others that were put back (fresh drilled holes) using the rawl bolts and they are already loose.
Bobupndown
What could possibly go wrong?
- Messages
- 1,755
- Location
- Northern Ireland
Manufacturers provide installation instructions with technical specifications, follow them.
Sound advice
Sound advice
Use a decent make like Fischer & follow the supplied instructions regarding hole size, cleaning the hole out thoroughly, threaded bar prep, etc. Other than that they are idiot proof.
Some makes need a special applicator gun but the fischer stuff I used I applied with a standard mastic gun.
On important stuff I would suggest using a fresh unopened tube. I tried using an old tube with a fresh nozzle to fix some gate brackets & out of 8 holes 3 didn't set properly. I think the nozzle blocked & the stuff didn't mix properly. It was a real mess drilling out the sticky semi set resin from the holes & cleaning the threaded bar.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,119
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
I stuck a five bay shed made from heavy duty 5 mtr tall industrial racking to the 18 inch outer thickness of the floor pad of a 20 x 40 foot shed , putting four holes & resin anchors in each upright .
I had to have everything pre drilled , de dusted & vacuumed out as it was in the mid 80 oF's I had about three minutes curing time ...I was using the big cartridge in binary resin that mixes in the special nozzle . Prior to inserting the studs I popped a nylock nut on the top of each stud , so my lass could give the studs a quick spin using the battery drill & a socket to get it well mixed and everything coated with nearly an inch of studding still proud of the concrete.
I much prefer the Hilti liquid resin anchors rather than the self mix binary pastes as the Hilti resin anchor resin mixed well & really soaks well into the surrounding porous materials . Using the correct white plastic / nylon Hilti top hat mesh inserts enables you to set the bolt precisely in the centre of the drilled hole
