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stuvy
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Running tomorrow?
sako243
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Meant to be picking apples at my parents in the afternoon for a friend to make some cider.
But I might split the box and engine, find the spare 300Tdi flywheel and offer it up. Supposedly almost a bolt on fit and I happen to have one spare...
But I might split the box and engine, find the spare 300Tdi flywheel and offer it up. Supposedly almost a bolt on fit and I happen to have one spare...
sako243
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Well I seem to be acquiring more and more bits but not actually got around to putting anything together (@8ob remind you of anyone? 
)...
Firstly I must say a massive massive thank you to Bob for being a true star and going down to have a look at this before I made the 600 mile round trip to collect it. He's also a tight fisted b****** so haggled when he got there and got a decent amount of money off what was already a bargain.
So this morning the fun job of trying to unload this began. I'd been thinking on the journey back last night where I wanted to unload it because until it's mounted on the 6x6 I don't particularly want to have to move it around on the forks of the JCB. Decided the most sensible spot was by the temporary workshop as there's power there and all the tools etc., it's also flat, well better then 1 in 3 which in this bit of Wales is flat. Downside is there isn't a lot of room to maneuver.
A lot of hopping in and out of the cab concluded that the forks from @vwmark were an inch or two short from being able to reach all the way through to the frame rail on the other side. Luckily I had just under 3m of box section left from making the headstock which was a reasonable fit over the forks (bit loose) so chopped them in half and the extra 10-12 inches made all the difference in some quick and dirty fork extensions (I have to return the trailer first thing tomorrow).
And she's up just high enough to drive the trailer out from underneath, with the back actor fully extended and stretched out behind it wasn't too bad tippy wise. Couple of straps just to stop it rocking on the forks made quite a bit of difference as the ground wasn't 100% flat when it was picked up.
And gently gently back down back onto safe ground.
This afternoon will purloin some more hydraulic fluid from the farm (fairly sure there's a 50 gallon drum over there because for a while it was cheaper for Dad to keep topping up the 360 than get the rams fixed!). Monday when the local tractor factors open I might cheat slightly and grab some quick couplers to hook what was the PTO pump into the JCB's auxiliary circuit so that I can lift all the legs up etc., to drive the 6x6 underneath and start the fabrication of the demountable fixing points.
I have no managed to acquire two hydraulic PTO pumps which is nice, the one that came with this is for the back of an LT230 which could be fitted to the Defender and a friend also had one thrown in with a gearbox and has given me the LT95 hydraulic PTO pump. Once the beds off the 6x6 then I'll mount that in so it's got some hydraulics as well.
)...Firstly I must say a massive massive thank you to Bob for being a true star and going down to have a look at this before I made the 600 mile round trip to collect it. He's also a tight fisted b****** so haggled when he got there and got a decent amount of money off what was already a bargain.
So this morning the fun job of trying to unload this began. I'd been thinking on the journey back last night where I wanted to unload it because until it's mounted on the 6x6 I don't particularly want to have to move it around on the forks of the JCB. Decided the most sensible spot was by the temporary workshop as there's power there and all the tools etc., it's also flat, well better then 1 in 3 which in this bit of Wales is flat. Downside is there isn't a lot of room to maneuver.
A lot of hopping in and out of the cab concluded that the forks from @vwmark were an inch or two short from being able to reach all the way through to the frame rail on the other side. Luckily I had just under 3m of box section left from making the headstock which was a reasonable fit over the forks (bit loose) so chopped them in half and the extra 10-12 inches made all the difference in some quick and dirty fork extensions (I have to return the trailer first thing tomorrow).
And she's up just high enough to drive the trailer out from underneath, with the back actor fully extended and stretched out behind it wasn't too bad tippy wise. Couple of straps just to stop it rocking on the forks made quite a bit of difference as the ground wasn't 100% flat when it was picked up.
And gently gently back down back onto safe ground.
This afternoon will purloin some more hydraulic fluid from the farm (fairly sure there's a 50 gallon drum over there because for a while it was cheaper for Dad to keep topping up the 360 than get the rams fixed!). Monday when the local tractor factors open I might cheat slightly and grab some quick couplers to hook what was the PTO pump into the JCB's auxiliary circuit so that I can lift all the legs up etc., to drive the 6x6 underneath and start the fabrication of the demountable fixing points.
I have no managed to acquire two hydraulic PTO pumps which is nice, the one that came with this is for the back of an LT230 which could be fitted to the Defender and a friend also had one thrown in with a gearbox and has given me the LT95 hydraulic PTO pump. Once the beds off the 6x6 then I'll mount that in so it's got some hydraulics as well.
sako243
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Oh and there's a slight change of plan regarding engines - a friend has given me a very good deal on a Mazda SL35Ti engine with all the adapter plates, radiator and hoses etc., to basically be a bolt in for the 6x6. Once we're able to get that down from Scotland that's the engine going into the 6x6 (I've always thought a diesel would suit it better).
There are off-the-shelf adapters for the 1UZ to a 300Tdi drivetrain - which is conveniently what's in the Defender. So not content with one engine swap I'm now doing two
There are off-the-shelf adapters for the 1UZ to a 300Tdi drivetrain - which is conveniently what's in the Defender. So not content with one engine swap I'm now doing two
sako243
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The main battle will be to keep at least one of the vehicles on the road - I was going to start prepping the 1UZ so it could be mocked up on the bench but having the house sandblasted basically put everything on hold for 2 weeks. Now I've got other jobs that have piled up which I'm trying to work through quickly.
The main thing will be to get the cherry picker mounted on the 6x6 first (even with the current engine) so that I can do work on the house that's needed. Then I can return to putting the 1UZ together and once it's all mocked up then drop it into the Defender.
The main thing will be to get the cherry picker mounted on the 6x6 first (even with the current engine) so that I can do work on the house that's needed. Then I can return to putting the 1UZ together and once it's all mocked up then drop it into the Defender.
slim_boy_fat
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sako243
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This was a couple of days ago (Sunday) but thought it prudent to try and fire up the hydraulics to check all the rams etc. It would also allow me to extend all the stabiliser legs such that I could reverse the 6x6 underneath it for mounting options.
There was a plan...
Plan A - JCB Auxiliary
It has a auxiliary spool valve for hand tools etc., but the couplers were seized. So ran down to the local tractor factors and picked up some new one along with the mating halves. Swapped things over, plugged it all in and then found the spool block was not switching. Bugger an electrical issue to the block and it's in a sod of a place, so sod that.
Plan B - JCB loader's 3rd function
This I knew worked - it would mean two people required to test hydraulics - one to hold the lever in the JCB and one to operate the cherry picker levers. On my way to pick up some new parts I realised what I might be trying to do wasn't practical. A quick phone call to Bob confirmed it was possible but I'd have to pick up the spool valve instead, which meant hoses needed to be made - so returned home to re-assess.
Plan C - 12V tipper power pack
This was lying in a box unopened so I opened it but again was going to need some hoses etc., made up so thought I'd look at alternatives.
Plan D - 700 bar 240V power pack
Again needed hoses etc. so not as trivial just to prove the hydraulics were working
Plan E - LT95 PTO hydraulic pump
This will be the ultimate goal as a friend gave me a hydraulic pump and PTO setup to go on an LT95 as on the 6x6. Went down to the barn where it's stored and found the linkage seized so would need some TLC before it was functioning. Hmmm....
Plan F - LT230 PTO hydraulic pump
A PTO setup and pump came with the cherry picker that had been removed from the donor vehicle it wouldn't work on the 6x6 but would work on the Defender so confirmed the everything turned freely and went under the Defender to bolt it all up. It also had the perk of being part of the package so everything just bolted up.
After dumping another 5 gallons of fluid into the cherry picker and hooking up the hoses to the Defender like life-support for the cherry picker fluid was finally flowing.
But... none of the hydraulics worked - another quick call to Bob (amazingly he actually had his phone on him and was answering it!) and confirmed that there was probably a valve somewhere that meant the hand pump was in circuit but not the main pump. Chasing through hoses found an solenoid valve block that looked the ticket so (look away @Parm) the old lawn mower battery was used to hotwire the valve block and bypass all the safety measures*
And that confirmed all the various functions were working.
* - to be fair when the cherry picker was removed from the original Defender they basically took a hacksaw to the bits connecting the two together. Once it's mounted and movable I will probably re-wire in most of the electricals once I've chased it around.
There was a plan...
Plan A - JCB Auxiliary
It has a auxiliary spool valve for hand tools etc., but the couplers were seized. So ran down to the local tractor factors and picked up some new one along with the mating halves. Swapped things over, plugged it all in and then found the spool block was not switching. Bugger an electrical issue to the block and it's in a sod of a place, so sod that.
Plan B - JCB loader's 3rd function
This I knew worked - it would mean two people required to test hydraulics - one to hold the lever in the JCB and one to operate the cherry picker levers. On my way to pick up some new parts I realised what I might be trying to do wasn't practical. A quick phone call to Bob confirmed it was possible but I'd have to pick up the spool valve instead, which meant hoses needed to be made - so returned home to re-assess.
Plan C - 12V tipper power pack
This was lying in a box unopened so I opened it but again was going to need some hoses etc., made up so thought I'd look at alternatives.
Plan D - 700 bar 240V power pack
Again needed hoses etc. so not as trivial just to prove the hydraulics were working
Plan E - LT95 PTO hydraulic pump
This will be the ultimate goal as a friend gave me a hydraulic pump and PTO setup to go on an LT95 as on the 6x6. Went down to the barn where it's stored and found the linkage seized so would need some TLC before it was functioning. Hmmm....
Plan F - LT230 PTO hydraulic pump
A PTO setup and pump came with the cherry picker that had been removed from the donor vehicle it wouldn't work on the 6x6 but would work on the Defender so confirmed the everything turned freely and went under the Defender to bolt it all up. It also had the perk of being part of the package so everything just bolted up.
After dumping another 5 gallons of fluid into the cherry picker and hooking up the hoses to the Defender like life-support for the cherry picker fluid was finally flowing.
But... none of the hydraulics worked - another quick call to Bob (amazingly he actually had his phone on him and was answering it!) and confirmed that there was probably a valve somewhere that meant the hand pump was in circuit but not the main pump. Chasing through hoses found an solenoid valve block that looked the ticket so (look away @Parm) the old lawn mower battery was used to hotwire the valve block and bypass all the safety measures*
And that confirmed all the various functions were working.
* - to be fair when the cherry picker was removed from the original Defender they basically took a hacksaw to the bits connecting the two together. Once it's mounted and movable I will probably re-wire in most of the electricals once I've chased it around.
sako243
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Doesn't look like a Sandringham - looks like someone's just bolted on an extra axle to a 130 in order to support the cherry picker.
In fact it looks very similar (the dodgy drivetrain) to one that @stuvy and I were discussing in PMs). The lack of apparent drive to the rear axle and the trailing arms looks suspiciously similar.
In fact it looks very similar (the dodgy drivetrain) to one that @stuvy and I were discussing in PMs). The lack of apparent drive to the rear axle and the trailing arms looks suspiciously similar.
stuvy
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I’d say your on the money there
the distance from b post to axle is a 130 and it’s definitely a tag axle
sako243
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Beds off
Which has given the opportunity for some photos of the drivetrain for people
My assumption is:
- Top is the incoming propshaft from the rear of the LT95 gearbox.
- Middle big bulging bit is the pinion for the middle diff.
- Bottom-most is the through-drive to the rear axle.
The other two bumps on the right are 1:1 gears to make the drive direction correct in the drop-box.
Rear of the middle axle with the output of the through drive.
And made a start on the "ISO" mounting frame this afternoon.
Another one of those going up front behind the cab and then two pieces between them sitting along the chassis rails.
Which has given the opportunity for some photos of the drivetrain for people
My assumption is:
- Top is the incoming propshaft from the rear of the LT95 gearbox.
- Middle big bulging bit is the pinion for the middle diff.
- Bottom-most is the through-drive to the rear axle.
The other two bumps on the right are 1:1 gears to make the drive direction correct in the drop-box.
Rear of the middle axle with the output of the through drive.
And made a start on the "ISO" mounting frame this afternoon.
Another one of those going up front behind the cab and then two pieces between them sitting along the chassis rails.
sako243
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8ob
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Did chamfer the plate on the top of the twist lock and took off paint near it. Mill scale was cleaned back but only with a slightly tired wire wheel rather than flap disc.
It was sticked / stuck rather than migged. Big question is does @8ob think I've taken his lesson on board?
Ed it looks ok on google earth
Why the big circular hole Ed? both parts of the twist lock should pass up through a hole the same shape as the lock.
Bob
sako243
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Good enough for me!Ed it looks ok on google earth
My initial thoughts were I haven't got a clue - thought I had it figured out but that made no sense (thought it was for assembly / replacing parts due to the roll pins used to lock bits together).
It has made me wonder whether these are meant to be welded underneath the "bed" so to speak because with the thread done all the way up there's a ~8mm gap between the head of the lock and the plate - which means you need at least 10mm plate (no bad thing) to form the other half on the "container".
What I'm thinking is should this be the "unlocked" position with it welded from underneath the bed, then when you twist the lock 90° so the top is aligned over the bottom half it's now clamping against itself rather than empty space
as it would in the current position.
When they arrived I was slightly surprised that the head didn't retract any further down into the slot that's been cast. Given this is for bodies that weigh less than an empty 40ft container I'm not overly concerned.
Robbie260
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10mm plate at the container twist lock point sounds about right.Good enough for me!
My initial thoughts were I haven't got a clue - thought I had it figured out but that made no sense (thought it was for assembly / replacing parts due to the roll pins used to lock bits together).
It has made me wonder whether these are meant to be welded underneath the "bed" so to speak because with the thread done all the way up there's a ~8mm gap between the head of the lock and the plate - which means you need at least 10mm plate (no bad thing) to form the other half on the "container".
What I'm thinking is should this be the "unlocked" position with it welded from underneath the bed, then when you twist the lock 90° so the top is aligned over the bottom half it's now clamping against itself rather than empty space
View attachment 273905
When they arrived I was slightly surprised that the head didn't retract any further down into the slot that's been cast. Given this is for bodies that weigh less than an empty 40ft container I'm not overly concerned.
Yes you have the lock in the unlock position there the head should be able to drop down a bit so it will clear the oval hole in the bottom of the box to be locked to the vehicle.
Nice stage 1.
