Sherman Tig (Jasic in disguise?)

[Hood]

Not so much stopping to let the torch cool, its to stop the cramp I shall look into alternatives, pay day on Thursday

Try 4T, makes life easier for longer runs. Takes a bit of getting used to at first but it is the mode I use 99% of the time.

If it is just the angle of the head that is the issue for you then a WP26 Flexi head will help a lot and will not cost a fortune, get a known brand though as some of the cheap ones don't last at high currents.

 

[DavidL]

Unlike some of the plug pictures I have seen here mine was very well done. Maybe it is just the pedal ones that are a bit of a bodge?

Yes, definitely. My torch plug was fine too.
I think for the pedal it's only because they decided to bodge two separate cables (a 2c and 3c) into a single plug (and ground off the strain relief clamp) that it was a bit of a dog show.

 

[Hood]

I have been doing some messing around today and what a difference with the WP20 Parweld torch, it feels normal again

I can't get the buttons for up/dn current to work, not sure why, it may be that you need a 4 button torch or it may be that the Sherman doesn't work with the buttons where the Jasic does. I suppose maybe even the Jasic doesn't as it would not be the first time there has been info in a manual that is wrong. Interestingly the Razorweld manual doesn't mention button control, only pot control.

Ok that is the bad things out of the way. I tried some 1.5mm thick stainless welding today and I have to say the arc is streets ahead of the Stealth and although I haven't had the Parweld for a long time now I would say it is better than that as well, very impressed with it on DC.

Did a couple of runs with the WP20 on Aluminium and very nice again and better than my tests yesterday with the leaky flexi I had on the WP26 torch.

The 1.5mm 316.

A blurry close up of the very first weld I did on the 1.5mm stainless.

Some of the welds I did on the Alu, was messing around with different frequencies and currents.

 

[ronan]

I have been doing some messing around today and what a difference with the WP20 Parweld torch, it feels normal again

I can't get the buttons for up/dn current to work, not sure why, it may be that you need a 4 button torch or it may be that the Sherman doesn't work with the buttons where the Jasic does. I suppose maybe even the Jasic doesn't as it would not be the first time there has been info in a manual that is wrong. Interestingly the Razorweld manual doesn't mention button control, only pot control.

Ok that is the bad things out of the way. I tried some 1.5mm thick stainless welding today and I have to say the arc is streets ahead of the Stealth and although I haven't had the Parweld for a long time now I would say it is better than that as well, very impressed with it on DC.

Did a couple of runs with the WP20 on Aluminium and very nice again and better than my tests yesterday with the leaky flexi I had on the WP26 torch.

The 1.5mm 316.

View attachment 231991

A blurry close up of the very first weld I did on the 1.5mm stainless.

View attachment 231992

Some of the welds I did on the Alu, was messing around with different frequencies and currents.

View attachment 231993 View attachment 231994

What sort of amps did it take to do the corner weld on the aluminium Hood ?

 

[Hood]

Look what I found tonight on ebay. This is an original Jasic but looks identical to your Sherman welders. If you look at mine you can see the difference. View attachment 232050 View attachment 232051

Aye and the manual has another, same decal as the latest ones but threaded outlet for the gas, suppose they are just evolving as time progresses, what other stuff has changed internally is anyones guess, heck even Parweld seem to be up to that trick

 

[Hood]

What sort of amps did it take to do the corner weld on the aluminium Hood ?

It varied with the different types, think pulse I had it about 150 peak and 100 low.
For straight AC I was around 120 if I recal.


For the fillet I think that was about 140 but with straight AC and a high frequency, think 250Hz.

 

[Ruffian]

Well mine I think is scheduled for delivery on monday, (dont know if dpd are working bank holidays though)

But had a play with the jasic again earlier.
Down to 8 amps welding a stanley blade for fun but a 95amp run on some alloy pipe butt joints.

Cant wait to compare them side by side.

 

[Hood]

I think I may have managed to decipher the manual regarding the torch switches.
I think what it is saying is when not welding you press the Parameter switch to select Up slope or Down slope and then can adjust the values by using the + or - buttons.
When welding you can press the Parameter button and then the + and - buttons control the welding current.

If that is a correct interpretation then likely I could just link pins 4 and 5 and that would allow the function to be active all the time. It is not really what I was hoping for as with the Parweld you could use the + and - buttons to adjust the voltage at all times and that is what I liked as most often I used when not welding, basically just a remote way of adjusting the current before welding which is handy if you are 8m away from the welder.
I think I will connect a couple of wires to a switch at the plug and see if that is indeed what it means, more out of curiosity because only being able to adjust the current whilst welding is not really what I want.

 

[Hood]

Well that is the plug unsoldered, new heatshrink slipped on and an extra two wires fitted and all back together again.
Whilst searching for a small toggle switch I saw a small plug that looked similar to the ones fitted to the Jasic and what do you know, 5 pin , so a perfect match I have some on order from China but they are taking 2 months to come, slow boat from China holds true

Hopefully I will make it to the workshop to give it a test tomorrow.

 

[Hood]

Well the switch makes no difference, I tried several different ways and nothing worked.

2T pressed button and released then tried to adjust with +/- buttons
4T pressed button and released then tried to adjust with +/- buttons

2T pressed button and held then tried to adjust with +/- buttons
4T pressed button and held then tried to adjust with +/- buttons

Also tried all above whilst welding which is quite tricky for the 2T ones

Also tried with it in what they call remote mode and no difference, so looks like the Sherman can't use the extra buttons, would be interesting to know i the Jasic can but I don't suppose anyone with a Jasic has the torches with 3 or 4 buttons.

 

[Hood]

I have just had a look inside and all wires are connected to the plug so it must be a software thing that is stopping the buttons working. I may put the insert with the pot on the torch but that will mean I need to resolder, not only this plug but also the plug on the WP18 torch that I have on the Stealth, so not happening today

 

[Hood]

BTW anyone wanting to put a quick release on the front for the torch could do so relatively easily as there is loads of room, it is not something I will bother with.

 

[Hood]

I have an issue with the Sherman

 

[Ruffian]

I have an issue with the Sherman

What have you done @Hood

 

[Hood]

Not me, its the bloody welder.

 

[Ruffian]

Not me, its the bloody welder.

Why what's wrong with it then??

 

[Richiew]

Suspense is killing me.

 

[ronan]

I have an issue with the Sherman

What ail's thee.

 

[Hood]

I came down to the workshop to check out the torch buttons and then head home.
The issue is, this thing is so bloody lovely especially on DC that I have spent the last 3 hours welding

 

[Ruffian]

I came down to the workshop to check out the torch buttons and then head home.
The issue is, this thing is so bloody lovely especially on DC that I have spent the last 3 hours welding

Well the more hours you do the cheaper it gets an hour.